BigSilverCat

Drive shafts:

Drive shaft flanges do not have to be lined up with each other length wise in a boat but the flanges do have to be parallel to each other.

To align the flanges we used a digital angle finder to get the vertical and a piece of aluminum to get the horizontal. The drive shaft flange on the transom assembly was sitting at 2.00 ' to gravity so I mounted the engine at 2.00 ' to gravity. Then found a piece of aluminum that is real close on the length and wide enough to span the flats on the flange, make sure the ends are cut at 90 ' . Hold it flat against the back flange and make sure the transmission flange has the same amount of gap on each side to make sure it is parallel front to back. Put a mark down the center and hold one end centered on the transom flange and measure over to the center of the transmission flange, that will give you a length to find out what angle the driveshaft will sit at. To find that angle you use the extensive amount of college math classes you took to be able to enter the numbers into the first online calculator that pops up in a google search. You do not want an angle greater then about 8 ' , we are at 2.5 ' . Then put the aluminum piece vertical and measure for that angle also. We were about the same angle.

You also do not want the flanges exactly lined up. When they are lined up perfectly straight the u-joints do not "wobble" so the needle bearings will not be moving to grease them selves and rotate so you will end up with flat spots on the bearings and they will wear then you get a lot of play.

BigSilverCat

Oil cooler brackets:

You can tell I am in a hurry to try to get the boat running before I have to leave for Key West because now when I'm making a bracket for something its not engineered, cnc'd, lightning pockets, cool design, ect.. Now I grab a block of aluminum drill a hole in it, wipe it off, spray paint it, wait a few min, then bolt it on.

Last night at midnight I needed a spacer bracket for the oil cooler. I was in a hurry and I needed to thin the block of aluminum and when I faced it off the head on the Bridgeport was not square to the table because someone had just tilted it to make an angle spacer so it left deep groves in the part. I took it to the big sander and it was taking for ever to try to get enough material down so I said screw it, its under the engine and you will not see it so I will just paint it black and not worry about it...

This morning I was looking at it, it looks like hell. So I decided to re-do it. I cannot have something that bad in the boat even if you don't see it. So I swept the head in on there Bridgeport (it was out 35 thousands over 1 foot) and then re-machined the face. Now its a lot better, I did not even have to sand it, just painted it and its fine.

Quinlan

iTrader: (1)

LOL Your are killing me Tyson

Very cool project Bro

midwest272

Wow .035 is a lot .......hell .0035 is a lot if your using a end mill .......fly cutter covers up out of tram LOL

Fun to watch

BigSilverCat

Transmission Oil coolers:

I could not find oil coolers that were the size I wanted without push on hoses (see push-on hose post above). So I had a set here that were push-on hose that I was going to go ahead and use, but then at the last minute I called Mr Cool to see if they could make me some and they said they would be able to make them and do it in two days. An added benefit was they are only a couple hours away so ground shipping was next day.

999JAY

Tyson what the ID of those AN fittings, will they not reduce the water flow from the 2" hose.

BigSilverCat

the water system is -20 AN fittings from the pickup all the way through to the exhaust. The only hose that is not a -20 hose was the piece I used as a seal between the blocks water inlet and the adapter I made.

We don't know if -20 will be enough water for to keep everything cool until we try it. The only thing that could cause it not to is the intercooler. Depending on how good the intercooler works will determine how hot the water is coming out of the intercooler and going into the engine. I could do the math on it but don't have time. We will just run it and see. If the intercooler heats the water up too much we will put another water pickup in the back and let it force feed the intercooler and then dump out the side.

pstorti

iTrader: (2)

That oil cooler is tiny, or at least looks tiny in the picture. What are the dimensions? Looks more appropriate for power steering or fuel. Obviously you know what you are doing just using what is on my Yanmar 6LP's as a reference. My oil coolers are made by Sen-Dure for Yanmar, they are push on hose though. What kind of water pressure are you expecting, I only see pressure in the teens regardless of speed (only up to 60).

EDIT: Now that I think about it each engine has two oil coolers, one built into the side of the block, where the oil is cooled by the engine coolant, and then the second external oil cooler where the oil is cooled by seawater, which only 6LP outdrive models have according to the service manual. Engines hold about 11 Qts, 70-80 psi at planing speeds and make 315 HP at 3800 rpm, 4.2L inline 6.

BigSilverCat

Crank case vent:

We did not have a crank case vent tube or breather on the valve cover like a stock valve cover would have so I took the fill cap and machined it for a -10 O-ring to -10 an fitting and then put a tiny hole in the back of the air cleaner and pushed a 180 degree push lock fitting into the hole in the rubber. The push lock ribs hold tight enough that I could not pull it back out. This way I will not have a catch can that I have to drain. Any oil that goes out the breather will be eaten by the turbo.

AllDodge

iTrader: (1)

I like the craftsmanship on the oil vent, but concerned that all the air being pulled by the motor will cause a vacuum in the block, and thereby drawing more oil in then would be used if there were no direct connection. Maybe if it had some kind of a slight restriction . Just a thought and I'm probably off base