Heads up! Check your trailer tongue tube's integrity:
11-21-2016, 09:50 AM
#1
VIP Member
Heads up! Check your trailer tongue tube's integrity:
This is an Aluminum Myco trailer. I never would have imagined this happening, yet it did.
[ATTACH=CONFIG]561865[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]561866[/ATTACH]
I've spoken to a master welder here on OSO, who might chime in as well.
Recommendations:
1) The steel coupler needs to be completely removed from the aluminum trailer tube; and have two crush tubes welded in place inside of the box tube, to ensure that the tension on those through bolts always remain tight, and cannot crush the box. This is what likely has happened; allowing the steel coupler to move around inside of the aluminum trailer tongue, allowing it to crush, and push the top out of the trailer tube. The aluminum holes may even be wallowed out a bit. (Even one step better would be for it to be made into solid steel, not box tube.
2) Those should have never been Stainless bolts from Myco. They should have been ARP Stainless Studs OR just plain old Grade-8 hardware. The stainless bolt(s) may have also stretched or loosened over time.
3) Repair recommendation is also to weld an aluminum strap around the trailer tongue aluminum tube, just to add extra strength around the tig welded repair of the overall tongue.
Moral of the story: Check your trailer's integrity regularly. I've seen a trailer's couple snap off before. I've never seen a tongue try to break like this.
[ATTACH=CONFIG]561865[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]561866[/ATTACH]
I've spoken to a master welder here on OSO, who might chime in as well.
Recommendations:
1) The steel coupler needs to be completely removed from the aluminum trailer tube; and have two crush tubes welded in place inside of the box tube, to ensure that the tension on those through bolts always remain tight, and cannot crush the box. This is what likely has happened; allowing the steel coupler to move around inside of the aluminum trailer tongue, allowing it to crush, and push the top out of the trailer tube. The aluminum holes may even be wallowed out a bit. (Even one step better would be for it to be made into solid steel, not box tube.
2) Those should have never been Stainless bolts from Myco. They should have been ARP Stainless Studs OR just plain old Grade-8 hardware. The stainless bolt(s) may have also stretched or loosened over time.
3) Repair recommendation is also to weld an aluminum strap around the trailer tongue aluminum tube, just to add extra strength around the tig welded repair of the overall tongue.
Moral of the story: Check your trailer's integrity regularly. I've seen a trailer's couple snap off before. I've never seen a tongue try to break like this.
11-21-2016, 10:23 AM
#2
Platinum Member
Platinum Member
This is an Aluminum Myco trailer. I never would have imagined this happening, yet it did.
[ATTACH=CONFIG]561865[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]561866[/ATTACH]
I've spoken to a master welder here on OSO, who might chime in as well.
Recommendations:
1) The steel coupler needs to be completely removed from the aluminum trailer tube; and have two crush tubes welded in place inside of the box tube, to ensure that the tension on those through bolts always remain tight, and cannot crush the box. This is what likely has happened; allowing the steel coupler to move around inside of the aluminum trailer tongue, allowing it to crush, and push the top out of the trailer tube. The aluminum holes may even be wallowed out a bit. (Even one step better would be for it to be made into solid steel, not box tube.
2) Those should have never been Stainless bolts from Myco. They should have been ARP Stainless Studs OR just plain old Grade-8 hardware. The stainless bolt(s) may have also stretched or loosened over time.
3) Repair recommendation is also to weld an aluminum strap around the trailer tongue aluminum tube, just to add extra strength around the tig welded repair of the overall tongue.
Moral of the story: Check your trailer's integrity regularly. I've seen a trailer's couple snap off before. I've never seen a tongue try to break like this.
[ATTACH=CONFIG]561865[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]561866[/ATTACH]
I've spoken to a master welder here on OSO, who might chime in as well.
Recommendations:
1) The steel coupler needs to be completely removed from the aluminum trailer tube; and have two crush tubes welded in place inside of the box tube, to ensure that the tension on those through bolts always remain tight, and cannot crush the box. This is what likely has happened; allowing the steel coupler to move around inside of the aluminum trailer tongue, allowing it to crush, and push the top out of the trailer tube. The aluminum holes may even be wallowed out a bit. (Even one step better would be for it to be made into solid steel, not box tube.
2) Those should have never been Stainless bolts from Myco. They should have been ARP Stainless Studs OR just plain old Grade-8 hardware. The stainless bolt(s) may have also stretched or loosened over time.
3) Repair recommendation is also to weld an aluminum strap around the trailer tongue aluminum tube, just to add extra strength around the tig welded repair of the overall tongue.
Moral of the story: Check your trailer's integrity regularly. I've seen a trailer's couple snap off before. I've never seen a tongue try to break like this.
Thanx for the insight, people should also be aware of the tongue weight on their rigs. The trucks have gotten so big that they don't care what you put on them.
People keep adding more gear and weight and pretty soon the tongue can't handle the load. Check with your trailer manufacturer about maximum tongue weight.
11-21-2016, 11:13 AM
#3
Registered
From my experience with metal, that looks like metal fatigue from too much force applied from the steel tube coupler in a vertical direction. I seriously doubt that 1/2 inch stainless steel bolts would stretch in that application or that the steel tube of the coupler would have deformed enough to allow side play. That type of crack happens in race cars and airplanes from repeated over-stressing. As with all parts on our rigs and boats, continuous rigorous inspections are mandatory. I would clamp the crack shut, re-weld it, grid the weld flush, then add a 1/4" thick upside down "U" aluminum piece at least as long as the crack over the aluminum tube and weld that continuously. Also, add some rosette welds to bond the two pieces together. It would be interestng to know your toung weight and road conditions. Also look into "Air Safe" pnumatic recievers to eliminate the shock transmitted into the trailer. They are the best thing I have seen to remedy this. JMO
