Any Tool guys up here
 

Looking for and need a compact / right angle cordless impact gun to get into tight areas. Any idea and recommendations THANKS Also NON cordless versions as well. I want both. Also I believe right angle apps probably offer most compact versions or am I wrong ?

Millwakee makes a 18 Volt impacting ratchet . I sold a few.

cordless and air apps ? - any info and links with dimensions. I need the power for removing parts that are on basically stuck in place ie: couplers on vdrive propshaft is one of the many uses I need it for. Access is very poor to use your standard cordless impact gun. Certain size right angle could work.

Thank you

Look on toolweb.com. I can get anything u want.

https://www.milwaukeetool.com/power-...rdless/2668-22

I have the 1/4" hex, pretty happy with it. Comes in very handy when I need it, the one in the link will probably be my next one.

I have sold a few of them. Great. Tool. Just a little big On the battery end.

John, try out the Ridgid Brand sold at Home Depot and online.
1) LIFETIME WARRANTY as long as you buy from an authorized dealers
2) I beat the tar out of mine, and they are all doing great. I've broken a flashlight or two, but that's just lightweight plastic stuff.
3) I hate Home Depot, but I do go in there for these tools specifically.

This one was just released:
https://www.ridgid.com/us/en/12v-pal...ct-screwdriver
https://www.ridgid.com/us/en/12v-pal...ct-screwdriver

It is only 12V, and part of the 12V line, (not the 18V line that I am talking about above), but I do feel like these tools are built very well.

Air CP7732 1/2 impact 4.3/8 total length anvil & body , cheap , very short , not a CP fan but in tight areas good to have .

I was heading here to tell you to talk to toolman Tom but he already chimed in. Lol

I have the M7. Got it because the truck had it...lol. It's worked pretty good.

Here's a YouTube comparison of different brand 'shorty' air impact guns

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QCoFh8K1Cb0

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QCoFh8K1Cb0 <iframe width="640" height="360" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/QCoFh8K1Cb0" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>

IR hammer head 90 air impact also cordless , real impact vs junk ratchet or 1/4 hex impact are very limited on tq , / try your snap-on and or mac dealer , here sell ingersol as second tool line / love my HammerHead

Depending on space available, a set of universal sockets go a long way in tight spots.

am goin out on a limb / thinkin BUP has seen u sockets at least once , good idea BTW / have special set sae met long shank drive call u joint socket - will do u joint drive line work again from Snap-on dealer / made by sunnex 12 point

Thanks -- think of this as something you are working on - a fabbed totally made up example to explain the room and tool needed --- a very stuck propeller and you are only able to slip you hand and tools in on one side of the area to even get access to the propeller. the open area is 7 oclock to 11 oclock position of clearances of about 5 to 9 inches only and only for that one side to gain any access. Again a fabbed example - then you have to put your special prop puller tool all together on the prop working with the little space you have.. That end is no problem - tight but can be done.

The problem part of the story. You need a tool to fit on the front side of the prop so you can operate the prop puller -- example like a bolt that needs to be tighten against the propshaft so the puller can pull the prop forward to get it removed off the propshaft. But your front room access is very tight as well --- to use the tool / air impact gun or WHATEVER. The FRONT access only has about 6 to 10 inches depending on applications to even hook a tool on to your special prop puller..

With that said,,, need a tool like a short right angle impact gun / wrench that is strong enough able to drive nuts and bolts to remove very stuck couplers on propshafts that has very little room front and side access as to what I posted in the made up example.. A socket set is not going to work - unless you can apply that much force. I can not but maybe a 700 pound bench press guy could..

Thanks for all the posts and anymore ideas.

look up google hammer head impact wrench air and cordless / that's all she wrote

hammer head by Ingersoll rand / or mac snapon // not the other tinker bell lost boy junk

I like that, looks pretty slick.

http://www.northerntool.com/shop/too...FdY6gQodQmQPRQ

What kind of materials are we talking about ? Brass, stainless, etc. Nuts or bolts. Penatrants? Hard to visualize what you have going on . 180 ft. #s on the air ratchet aint much on stuck hardware. Any way to safely apply heat?
actually, what size of fastener are we talking about? Is this a taperlock type setup?

this is considered good access seriously ---- this is not my pic nor job but its close to the apps I work on for V drive wakeboard boats.

The propshaft side coupler (Gold) has 4 to 6 boats and nuts to take off from the coupler mount at the transmission side. You can see this in the pic.

Then you slide the propshaft / coupler still connected with the propshaft as far back as you CAN in which is about 5 to 8 inches depending on the app in most cases.. Then you have to remove the allen screw up against the nut that holds the coupler on - then you remove the nut from the coupler - then you have to separate the couple from the propshaft that has a key way so you can pull out the whole propshaft -- the coupler is mounted on the wedged part of the propshaft.. All the time they are completely stuck like a mother.

http://s516.photobucket.com/user/pft..._0170.jpg.html

This is more like the access and only on the one side most of the times but not all. Keep in mind these are V drive apps - the engine is backwards and the trans and V drive are mounted forward in the engine compartment.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1xCSP2pHm30

pulled all of these off the net to help see what I am talking about. All the pics of this guys propshaft and coupler is out of the boat so very simple to remove the coupler and its allen boat and its nut. The pics should help but think about all of that under the V drive and coming thru the hull like I posted above. You have to remove the coupler to remove the propshaft. When these V drive boats impact something in the water even the props are mother F ers to get off. the propshafts get bent and all of that has to be replaced.

Look at the all the pics in the guys posts. Not easy when installed in the boat and no room plus impact damage has twisted all that. Hence why a socket set does not work.

https://forum.moomba.com/showthread....oupler-Removal

Interwar rand make a really shallow air ratchet looking impact called the hammerhead...180 ft lbs..it rocks

I hate Ski Boats...lol..

Chris

Might just be quicker and easier in the long run to pull the engine and have free access, but assume you know this already. Or find a midget with small hands and big arms, lol!

edit , after going back and reading more of that some said they remove the 6 vdrive bolts and slide it out of the way for added access.

Too pull the engine you still have the unbolt the propshaft coupler from the tranny coupler so if you can do that then in most cases can do the rest of the removal. Also if you ever had to realign all that end, Motor / transmission / V drive and so on, that can be very time consuming. To pull out the complete package for 99 % in very current V drive apps is not a half days work by yourself. It is very time consuming.

I hear everyone about hating wakeboard boats but if you were in the boat biz inland areas its basically what keeping real repair shops and dealerships open with service and boat sales. The sportboat crowd works on their boats and sportboats have zero sales hence why there is not that many 100 % performance only dealerships anymore. But there is 100 % wakeboard dealers only as that's all they work on and sell without lack of business problems. The same for Pontoon dealerships thats all they do all day long and both are making great money at it.

With that said when in Rome I have to do what the Romans are doing.

Are the coupler bolts the issue or is it the large nut to the propshaft? If not the coupler bolts an air ratch would be the ticket for those , and one poster suggested loosening the shaft nut and using a socket as a pusher and retighten coupler to pust it free of the shaft. Sounds like a pia no matter how you slice it.

getting the coupler pulled off the propshaft can be the hardest and time consuming part of it. Plus the very limited access is in the mix as well.

https://youtu.be/TqmNLkgLH2g

BUP I know it's knot funny, but this is .. lmao

I have a tool!

I just looked at a Matco one. 3/8" drive claims 200 ft/lbs. measured right about 3 1/2 inches from back of head to tip of anvil. $400. said they don't make a 1/2"

Ok lets see or put it to the test ?

Thanks

As I said earlier, if the coupler bolts aren't boogered up and the coupler to shaft nut can be loosened, you can put any kind of spacer in and retighten coupler to break it loose. Really hard to understand the issues without actually being hands on or in as the case may be . Good luck sir!