Norcold NR751 fridge Is what I use. Runs on AC or DC. I have no problems on battery drain here, and I run it all weekend. When running it only draws 3.6 Amps at 12 Volts DC ( 0.75 amps on 120). Remember the compressor dose not run 24-7, just when the demand is there. How ever to justify a $700 new fridge vs a small inverter to make your current fridge work hard. Also no need to buy the 120 volt cord for it. It is just and normal desk top computer cord. You probably have a few sitting a junk drawer.

Stove on DC!! That would be one hell of a amp draw. That would be equivalent of running a A/C unit on DC power. Once I have see are 120 / shore power only. And then they are still a 12 amp draw at 120 volt, with 12 AWG wire

Personally, if your on anchor and need 120 volt / turn in the cook top or microwave a Honda 2000 is the trick.

Also Make sure your CO detector is up to date. They only have a 5-7 year life span.

Thanks, hadnt thought about the CO2 detector. My fridge has 12v wires but they were cut for some reason, just ran it yesterday to test and make sure the 12v side works on it - on ONE of what will be 2 of my house batteries and it just pulled the battery down tenth of a volt or two in a few hours. Not as bad as I thought.

Im not adding the catteries in the bilge for that reason, leave enough room to throw a quiet gennie in there hopefully.

Wires were probably cut because there was no way to turn it off from 12V, automatically switches over when 120V removed). Could put your own breaker/switch in.

That was one thing I was wondering. How do you switch from one to the other, if it was plugged into 120 and 12v at same time what happens? Best way to switch between?

I love what you did with the Volvo as I saw it a couple of weeks back! I am exploring options to upgrade my LS and a turbo is on the short list. I'm sure the Donzi will be a winner for sure combined with your building skills. Subscribed!

Thanks, if you want to know or need anything LS shoot me an email [email protected]

I hope you mean a water cooled marine specific generator and not something like the Honda that was suggested.

Nothing wrong with an air cooled gen if done right. Fella down here had Majestic House boats build him a custom 80 foot house boat, and installed a Honda air cooled Gen. Was reviewed and approved during the build. Blowers run while the motor is running pulling air into the engine compartment. If the air stops, it kills the motor. Exhaust goes up thru a triple way pipe then exits above the second deck. This way you have even less chance of CO poisoning.

Forget about the x-dimension unless you plan to change it. Donzi did a pretty good job setting those boats up so I doubt there is much room for improvement without sacrificing drivability. Most of the ZX's I have seen are spinning in, some even have a little sticker on the transom stating it. Spinning in should be bow lift, spinning out stern lift. The reality of props is no matter how many opinions you get all that really matters is how they run on your boat. Best thing to do will be run it and go from there. I think you are on the right track using a stock Bravo 24p as a baseline, lots of options from there once you know where you are RPM wise. In terms of prop rotation and docking my boat is easier with the props spinning in, I get a little more speed and MPG spinning in, but it banks way over in turns and is bouncier in rough seas. Spinning out is not hard to dock but a little less responsive, a tenth or two worse MPG (5%), but rides flatter and a little nicer, and maybe I can get a few inches shallower at speed. But again try both ways and see, might make sense to do that now with the existing setup just to get a baseline established.

Eff the existing setup.. I pulled the plug and aint looking back haha. Plus these will be 1000# lighter and make around 450-550 more hp and turn a little more rpm so likely beapples to oranges anyway. I took it out once, made sure the motors ran healthy no alarms - and dug in