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Trailer Bunks Wood or Composite?
I need to replace the bunks on my trailer. Is there anything better than treated wood? Can the composite deck material be used?
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Regular pine.
That's what the bigger/better trailer manufactures use and recommend (Myco). DON'T use the salt-treated lumber. The chemicals in it do not do well with the points they are bolted to the trailer; especially when they get wet and drip down the stanchions. IF you REALLY want to invest a bit deeper, go with Cypress wood, which is 'swamp-wood' and has the same waterborne life characteristics of salt treated pine. But it will be pretty expensive. |
Originally Posted by Sydwayz
(Post 4618720)
Regular pine.
That's what the bigger/better trailer manufactures use and recommend (Myco). DON'T use the salt-treated lumber. The chemicals in it do not do well with the points they are bolted to the trailer; especially when they get wet and drip down the stanchions. IF you REALLY want to invest a bit deeper, go with Cypress wood, which is 'swamp-wood' and has the same waterborne life characteristics of salt treated pine. But it will be pretty expensive. |
Composite decking is floppy junk for your purposes.
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Always used polyurethaned pine with silicon on the lags. Hardest part was finding the straightest boards st Home Depot. |
Originally Posted by Sydwayz
(Post 4618720)
IF you REALLY want to invest a bit deeper, go with Cypress wood, which is 'swamp-wood' and has the same waterborne life characteristics of salt treated pine. But it will be pretty expensive. https://www.boattrailerpartsplace.co...ress-bunks-3x/ |
Why use galvanized bolts? Seems like stainless would last longer. |
Originally Posted by WARPARTY36
(Post 4618946)
Why use galvanized bolts? Seems like stainless would last longer. |
Originally Posted by Speedracer29
(Post 4618837)
My last 2 trailers have had cypress and it lasts forever (ok, 14 years, so far). It’s not the cost of the cypress, it’s the price to ship it that bites you. Have one of those Florida boys bring some to you this summer. Unless those F650s can’t tow a boat AND carry a couple pieces of lumber at the same time. https://www.boattrailerpartsplace.co...ress-bunks-3x/ |
My last Myco had the bunks through-bolted (with nuts) - it was kind of a pain the ass when you needed to replace one, but it seemed like they lasted longer. My current trailer has lag screws to hold the bunks on. ...and it seems like I'm always replacing screws due to them falling out.
Something to consider. |
Originally Posted by ALL_IN!
(Post 4619274)
My last Myco had the bunks through-bolted (with nuts) - it was kind of a pain the ass when you needed to replace one, but it seemed like they lasted longer. My current trailer has lag screws to hold the bunks on. ...and it seems like I'm always replacing screws due to them falling out.
Something to consider. |
Never had a problem with treated lumber and galvanized lags in fresh water. My Prestige and all 3 of my Heritage trailers came with treated bunks. Yes, the galvanized lags will rust and yes, after a couple dunkings they tend to back off a bit but after re-tightening them they stay put. I'm going on 6-7 or so seasons on my current bunks/lags and the lags are still holding fine. The carpet wears thru and needs replaced before any of the lags give up the ghost. At that point I replace everything (wood/lags/carpet). I'm not about to pull a bazillion staples out!
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Teak or ipe wood would last forever |
Originally Posted by omerta one
(Post 4619384)
Teak or ipe wood would last forever |
2x6 Ipe is a stock size. Tiger wood is similar |
interesting....I am surprised that with the chemicals that are now being used to treat pine that there would be that much reaction with galvanized hardware......I own a Cypress mill and the problem with it is it's tendency to float....I had Cypress on my lift bunks and had to add a quite a bit of weight so the lift would sink........might be fine with the weight of a trailer....IPE maybe a great choice as it is extremely rot resistant and quite heavy.......but it is very pricey
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