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-   -   Replacing trailer bunks (https://www.offshoreonly.com/forums/general-boating-discussion/354046-replacing-trailer-bunks.html)

Gary864 05-19-2018 04:58 PM

Replacing trailer bunks
 
am I correct that I should use treated pine for the replacing my bunks?

I assume I should be able to get the 4”x10”x14’ at any lumber store?

Rookie 05-19-2018 05:13 PM

Decent discussion about it a little bit ago.
https://www.offshoreonly.com/forums/...composite.html

Gary864 05-19-2018 05:38 PM

Thanks I searched it but didn’t find anything

shunter2005 05-20-2018 01:02 AM

I wouldn't. Treated wood will not take sealer (if you do that). I used untreated fir and sealed it. Best is cypress if you can find it. When you put carpet on, be sure to leave a little of the bottom of the bunk open for drainage.

Nuke427 05-20-2018 01:57 AM


Originally Posted by Gary864 (Post 4627395)
am I correct that I should use treated pine for the replacing my bunks?

I assume I should be able to get the 4”x10”x14’ at any lumber store?

What are you hauling with 4X10X14' bunks? As far as your question, I used treated lumber and carpeted over, no sealant of any kind. I used 2X6 of various lengths for my 39' NT.

Gary864 05-20-2018 06:50 AM


Originally Posted by shunter2005 (Post 4627429)
I wouldn't. Treated wood will not take sealer (if you do that). I used untreated fir and sealed it. Best is cypress if you can find it. When you put carpet on, be sure to leave a little of the bottom of the bunk open for drainage.

34 Phantom, that's what is on the trailer now so I just wanted to make it the same

ph1971 05-20-2018 07:39 AM

4x10 will probably be special order,but not a problem. Be sure to use stainless fasteners so the pt doesn’t eat your hardware. Stainless roofing nails work well to attach the carpet from below.

Kefurr 05-20-2018 09:06 AM

Use monel staples for the carpet

Jupiter Sunsation 05-20-2018 11:23 AM

I had to replace the bunks years ago. Back the boat down and the bunk broke off (rot). Now I'm thinking how do I get the boat out of the water for a few days. I called my buddy and asked if the buyer of his boat picked it up......."yeah its gone".....Great can I put my boat on your lift? He left the lift down and I went boating all day and put it on his lift at the end of the day! Day saved!

Gary864 05-20-2018 02:59 PM


Originally Posted by ph1971 (Post 4627439)
4x10 will probably be special order,but not a problem. Be sure to use stainless fasteners so the pt doesn’t eat your hardware. Stainless roofing nails work well to attach the carpet from below.


Originally Posted by Kefurr (Post 4627446)
Use monel staples for the carpet


Originally Posted by Jupiter Sunsation (Post 4627460)
I had to replace the bunks years ago. Back the boat down and the bunk broke off (rot). Now I'm thinking how do I get the boat out of the water for a few days. I called my buddy and asked if the buyer of his boat picked it up......."yeah its gone".....Great can I put my boat on your lift? He left the lift down and I went boating all day and put it on his lift at the end of the day! Day saved!

I’m boats on the hoist now so I have time to do it right but I have to get it done before winter sneaks up on me

Baja Rooster 05-21-2018 12:33 PM

I saw someone using plastic strips on top of the bunks. Haven’t seen any downsides to it yet.

obnoxus 05-21-2018 12:42 PM

Whos trailer is it?

When I wanted to redo my Eagle I called them and they sent me carpeted bunks ready to mount.

Way less time and aggravation.

Gary864 05-21-2018 01:00 PM

Can't remember, when I check last season they were not longer in Business that I why I did not change them last season.

Sydwayz 05-21-2018 01:37 PM

Many years ago, I custom ordered some 4"x10" long bunks for a bunk trailer. It wasn't a big deal, and was not terribly expensive. I think I ordered Cypress which would be the best wood to use. I don't recommend treated lumber, and neither does Myco. Just plain Pine UNLESS you go to Cypress.

The worst think I found about the bunks "wearing" on the typical bolt-together aluminum trailer is that their were only a couple of through bolts supporting ALL the weight of the boat. This is because my bunks were not touching the trailer frame, but were suspended by those bolts above it.

Either have those big bunks setting all the way down on the trailer frame cross members, OR install some small blocks of wood to make up for the suspension that the through bolts are supporting. This was on a POS Rocket trailer under my 26' Sonic. I was much better when I was done with it.

convincor 05-21-2018 04:06 PM

https://www.easternmarine.com/magic-...k-board-pt5202

freight would cost almost as much.

Thunderous 05-21-2018 11:23 PM


Originally Posted by obnoxus (Post 4627623)
Whos trailer is it?

When I wanted to redo my Eagle I called them and they sent me carpeted bunks ready to mount.

Way less time and aggravation.

What did that cost and how long was the wait??

Griff 05-22-2018 12:59 AM

The 2 main bunks on my Pantera's Owen & Son's aluminum trailer were like his.
4 x 10's sitting vertically on the I Beams. The tops of the 4 x 10's were cut at the angle of the boat bottom.

Gary864 05-22-2018 06:04 PM

Mine are flat but same as you stated

Boatally Insane 05-22-2018 06:29 PM


Originally Posted by Baja Rooster (Post 4627622)
I saw someone using plastic strips on top of the bunks. Haven’t seen any downsides to it yet.


I did.. :).

Only downfall is they are REAL slippery

..When pulling the boat out I now have to leave the boat idling in gear until the winch get hooked


or it slides back in the water as you're walking up the bow.... :picard1:


https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...e185a6d5ef.jpg

Baja Rooster 05-22-2018 07:11 PM


Originally Posted by Boatally Insane (Post 4627879)
I did.. :).

Only downfall is they are REAL slippery

..When pulling the boat out I now have to leave the boat idling in gear until the winch get hooked


or it slides back in the water as you're walking up the bow.... :picard1:


https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...e185a6d5ef.jpg

Lol ​​​​​​​I never considered that.

Gary864 05-23-2018 01:10 PM


Originally Posted by Sydwayz (Post 4627629)
Many years ago, I custom ordered some 4"x10" long bunks for a bunk trailer. It wasn't a big deal, and was not terribly expensive. I think I ordered Cypress which would be the best wood to use. I don't recommend treated lumber, and neither does Myco. Just plain Pine UNLESS you go to Cypress.

The worst think I found about the bunks "wearing" on the typical bolt-together aluminum trailer is that their were only a couple of through bolts supporting ALL the weight of the boat. This is because my bunks were not touching the trailer frame, but were suspended by those bolts above it.

Either have those big bunks setting all the way down on the trailer frame cross members, OR install some small blocks of wood to make up for the suspension that the through bolts are supporting. This was on a POS Rocket trailer under my 26' Sonic. I was much better when I was done with it.

that is exactly what I heard in the past. I been loading and unloading for years with out them so I won’t use them at this point. I only now have 1 in and 1 our with the trailer

convincor 05-23-2018 02:16 PM


Originally Posted by Boatally Insane (Post 4627879)
I did.. :).

Only downfall is they are REAL slippery

..When pulling the boat out I now have to leave the boat idling in gear until the winch get hooked


or it slides back in the water as you're walking up the bow.... :picard1:

And hook up the safety chain before pulling up to far. Have seen winch straps snap.

Interceptor 05-24-2018 09:55 AM

As someone previously posted treated lumber has a corrosive effect on the hardware used to fasten the bunks to the trailer.

Indy 05-24-2018 10:17 AM


Originally Posted by Interceptor (Post 4628196)
As someone previously posted treated lumber has a corrosive effect on the hardware used to fasten the bunks to the trailer.

Not true, stainless or hot dipped galvanized will be fine.

Interceptor 05-24-2018 05:55 PM


Originally Posted by Indy (Post 4628200)
Not true, stainless or hot dipped galvanized will be fine.

What then caused the galvanized lag bolts to erode ? I backed down a ramp, the boat floated free and so did two of the four bunks. The fasteners were eroded to a pointed shape with no thread left to grip the wood. This is on a fresh water use only trailer.

Indy 05-24-2018 06:11 PM


Originally Posted by Interceptor (Post 4628267)
What then caused the galvanized lag bolts to erode ? I backed down a ramp, the boat floated free and so did two of the four bunks. The fasteners were eroded to a pointed shape with no thread left to grip the wood. This is on a fresh water use only trailer.

Most decks in America would fall off the house if that was the case. Finding fasteners that are compliant with treated lumber is not hard, we use numerous types when we build decks. There has to be some sort of electrode potential between aluminum (is your trailer aluminum?)/steel/galvanized products...it's not the treated lumber.

Thunderous 05-24-2018 06:17 PM

If you do a little Googling you will see that its not uncommon for pressure treated wood bearing the mineral copper to be very hard on galvanized fasteners.

Indy 05-24-2018 06:37 PM


Originally Posted by Thunderous (Post 4628272)
If you do a little Googling you will see that its not uncommon for pressure treated wood bearing the mineral copper to be very hard on galvanized fasteners.

Hot dipped?

veloc410 05-24-2018 06:53 PM

Buy cypress bunks.Dont brother with any other wood. No other wood can compare. Then carpet them with something suitable.

veloc410 05-24-2018 06:55 PM


Originally Posted by Baja Rooster (Post 4627887)


Lol I never considered that.

my boat slips with just carpet. Plastic sounds dangerous????

veloc410 05-24-2018 06:57 PM

The stuff doesnt rot. They find it in the bottom of rivers sitting for decades


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