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Replacing trailer bunks
am I correct that I should use treated pine for the replacing my bunks? I assume I should be able to get the 4”x10”x14’ at any lumber store? |
Decent discussion about it a little bit ago.
https://www.offshoreonly.com/forums/...composite.html |
Thanks I searched it but didn’t find anything |
I wouldn't. Treated wood will not take sealer (if you do that). I used untreated fir and sealed it. Best is cypress if you can find it. When you put carpet on, be sure to leave a little of the bottom of the bunk open for drainage.
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Originally Posted by Gary864
(Post 4627395)
am I correct that I should use treated pine for the replacing my bunks? I assume I should be able to get the 4”x10”x14’ at any lumber store? |
Originally Posted by shunter2005
(Post 4627429)
I wouldn't. Treated wood will not take sealer (if you do that). I used untreated fir and sealed it. Best is cypress if you can find it. When you put carpet on, be sure to leave a little of the bottom of the bunk open for drainage.
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4x10 will probably be special order,but not a problem. Be sure to use stainless fasteners so the pt doesn’t eat your hardware. Stainless roofing nails work well to attach the carpet from below. |
Use monel staples for the carpet |
I had to replace the bunks years ago. Back the boat down and the bunk broke off (rot). Now I'm thinking how do I get the boat out of the water for a few days. I called my buddy and asked if the buyer of his boat picked it up......."yeah its gone".....Great can I put my boat on your lift? He left the lift down and I went boating all day and put it on his lift at the end of the day! Day saved!
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Originally Posted by ph1971
(Post 4627439)
4x10 will probably be special order,but not a problem. Be sure to use stainless fasteners so the pt doesn’t eat your hardware. Stainless roofing nails work well to attach the carpet from below.
Originally Posted by Kefurr
(Post 4627446)
Use monel staples for the carpet
Originally Posted by Jupiter Sunsation
(Post 4627460)
I had to replace the bunks years ago. Back the boat down and the bunk broke off (rot). Now I'm thinking how do I get the boat out of the water for a few days. I called my buddy and asked if the buyer of his boat picked it up......."yeah its gone".....Great can I put my boat on your lift? He left the lift down and I went boating all day and put it on his lift at the end of the day! Day saved!
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I saw someone using plastic strips on top of the bunks. Haven’t seen any downsides to it yet. |
Whos trailer is it?
When I wanted to redo my Eagle I called them and they sent me carpeted bunks ready to mount. Way less time and aggravation. |
Can't remember, when I check last season they were not longer in Business that I why I did not change them last season.
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Many years ago, I custom ordered some 4"x10" long bunks for a bunk trailer. It wasn't a big deal, and was not terribly expensive. I think I ordered Cypress which would be the best wood to use. I don't recommend treated lumber, and neither does Myco. Just plain Pine UNLESS you go to Cypress.
The worst think I found about the bunks "wearing" on the typical bolt-together aluminum trailer is that their were only a couple of through bolts supporting ALL the weight of the boat. This is because my bunks were not touching the trailer frame, but were suspended by those bolts above it. Either have those big bunks setting all the way down on the trailer frame cross members, OR install some small blocks of wood to make up for the suspension that the through bolts are supporting. This was on a POS Rocket trailer under my 26' Sonic. I was much better when I was done with it. |
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Originally Posted by obnoxus
(Post 4627623)
Whos trailer is it?
When I wanted to redo my Eagle I called them and they sent me carpeted bunks ready to mount. Way less time and aggravation. |
The 2 main bunks on my Pantera's Owen & Son's aluminum trailer were like his.
4 x 10's sitting vertically on the I Beams. The tops of the 4 x 10's were cut at the angle of the boat bottom. |
Mine are flat but same as you stated
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Originally Posted by Baja Rooster
(Post 4627622)
I saw someone using plastic strips on top of the bunks. Haven’t seen any downsides to it yet. Only downfall is they are REAL slippery ..When pulling the boat out I now have to leave the boat idling in gear until the winch get hooked or it slides back in the water as you're walking up the bow.... :picard1: https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...e185a6d5ef.jpg |
Originally Posted by Boatally Insane
(Post 4627879)
I did.. :).
Only downfall is they are REAL slippery ..When pulling the boat out I now have to leave the boat idling in gear until the winch get hooked or it slides back in the water as you're walking up the bow.... :picard1: https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...e185a6d5ef.jpg |
Originally Posted by Sydwayz
(Post 4627629)
Many years ago, I custom ordered some 4"x10" long bunks for a bunk trailer. It wasn't a big deal, and was not terribly expensive. I think I ordered Cypress which would be the best wood to use. I don't recommend treated lumber, and neither does Myco. Just plain Pine UNLESS you go to Cypress.
The worst think I found about the bunks "wearing" on the typical bolt-together aluminum trailer is that their were only a couple of through bolts supporting ALL the weight of the boat. This is because my bunks were not touching the trailer frame, but were suspended by those bolts above it. Either have those big bunks setting all the way down on the trailer frame cross members, OR install some small blocks of wood to make up for the suspension that the through bolts are supporting. This was on a POS Rocket trailer under my 26' Sonic. I was much better when I was done with it. |
Originally Posted by Boatally Insane
(Post 4627879)
I did.. :).
Only downfall is they are REAL slippery ..When pulling the boat out I now have to leave the boat idling in gear until the winch get hooked or it slides back in the water as you're walking up the bow.... :picard1: |
As someone previously posted treated lumber has a corrosive effect on the hardware used to fasten the bunks to the trailer.
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Originally Posted by Interceptor
(Post 4628196)
As someone previously posted treated lumber has a corrosive effect on the hardware used to fasten the bunks to the trailer.
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Originally Posted by Indy
(Post 4628200)
Not true, stainless or hot dipped galvanized will be fine.
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Originally Posted by Interceptor
(Post 4628267)
What then caused the galvanized lag bolts to erode ? I backed down a ramp, the boat floated free and so did two of the four bunks. The fasteners were eroded to a pointed shape with no thread left to grip the wood. This is on a fresh water use only trailer.
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If you do a little Googling you will see that its not uncommon for pressure treated wood bearing the mineral copper to be very hard on galvanized fasteners.
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Originally Posted by Thunderous
(Post 4628272)
If you do a little Googling you will see that its not uncommon for pressure treated wood bearing the mineral copper to be very hard on galvanized fasteners.
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Buy cypress bunks.Dont brother with any other wood. No other wood can compare. Then carpet them with something suitable.
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Originally Posted by Baja Rooster
(Post 4627887)
Lol I never considered that. |
The stuff doesnt rot. They find it in the bottom of rivers sitting for decades
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