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Help - major grinding noise when outdrive is up and now water is coming into my boat

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Help - major grinding noise when outdrive is up and now water is coming into my boat

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Old 06-12-2018, 10:27 AM
  #31
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You lost me at "JB welded a cylinder wall".
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Old 06-12-2018, 10:45 AM
  #32
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No you do not need that seal. But helps keep water and dirt from getting to the bearing from the engine compartment. So its a good idea to have it.
If I where to guess, Id say those broken pieces from the bellows housing got broken beecause a screw driver was used to pry between the bellows and housing trying to break the bellows free?? Without seeing how far back the break is, hard to say if it will hurt anything. Are those broken pieces where the hose clamp is or before it?
Installing an inner bearing, new or old, into the outer bearing ring and then trying to remove the whole bearing as a unit may more than
likely just result in the inner bearing coming back out. That outer bearing race is just alum. Possibly cut it by hand till you hit the steel wave ring to relieve the press fit. Probably corrosion is whats keeping it in there

On a good note, at least the splines look good.

Last edited by US1 Fountain; 06-12-2018 at 11:00 AM.
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Old 06-12-2018, 10:45 AM
  #33
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I'm not familiar with "JB weld" so I googled it. OMG. Why not use Scotch Tape, it would have been cheaper........?

Pony up the money and get the job done right the first time. You're not talking about a pinstripe or loose speaker grill, this is important. Don't take chances on a quick fix.

RR





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Old 06-12-2018, 10:47 AM
  #34
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Originally Posted by rak rua View Post
Why do you think those two sections broke away in the first place? What would cause that to happen? First thing that comes to my mind is would that likely be a sign of metal fatigue/corrosion and the rest of the housing is ready to break away very soon too?

I had a ujoint blow, and break that piece badly.
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Old 06-12-2018, 12:09 PM
  #35
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Darr?
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Old 06-12-2018, 02:48 PM
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Originally Posted by Indy View Post
Darr?
doubt it. Darr usually pretends to have some kind of knowledge. This guy can't see the forest thru the trees... We keep trying to give him an axe, but I'm not sure we should let him play with sharp objects...b I give him credit for trying though..
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Old 06-12-2018, 03:15 PM
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Read his post from last summer, boat wont go over 3500 rpm or something like that. Same mentality can I reuse this broken part and can I glue it together. Turtle Wax Rubbing Compound because it was cheaper than Valve Grinding Compound.
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Old 06-12-2018, 04:01 PM
  #38
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Originally Posted by phragle View Post


doubt it. Darr usually pretends to have some kind of knowledge.
Could be a change in tactics?

My problem with the whole thing is if you F with a car and it breaks down...you walk. JB weld on a bellows gasket...you drown.
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Old 06-12-2018, 04:59 PM
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Speaking of previous threads...

https://www.offshoreonly.com/forums/...ml#post4320048


Originally Posted by phragle View Post
The liberal use of high explosives removes all gimble bearings, I would wait for your mechanic before the 200 dollar bearing and bellows job becomes a 2000 transom assembly..

​​​​​​​Guess what.........
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Old 06-12-2018, 05:45 PM
  #40
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guys - you obviously don't understand or see the issue with the transom housing. I am not JB\ing the rubber bellows. I have a new bearing, bellows, gasket set, clamps, etc, etc. The broken pieces of the transom housing ring was only the 1/2" edge - this ring is 1.5" deep so the new bellows will slide all the way 1.5" deep around this ring and the clamp will go around the ring which has no damage - I am also going to use bellows adhesive for added strength. I even spoke with my marine parts and service guys today and he said he has seen the edges break because there is a recess/carved section under that 1/2" section so it is a little weaker and can easily break from just prying the old bellows off - the mech said it will be fine as long as the extra 1" lip wasn't damaged (which it wasn't).

So I got the outer bearing out - bought a swivel bearing attachment/puller which works with my 5lb slide hammer - got it behind the bearing and two good pulls and it was out - no problem. So here is a new picture of what it looks like with the bearing out and the edges JB'ed.


So I have a few new questions now:

1) you'll notice that warped seal behind where the gimbal bearing was - is that called the bearing seal? Should I replace it based on the picture? What does this seal do? Lastly, I tried to pull it out but in the picture you'll notice ont the bottom middle of the seal it has a section/edge whicvh appears to have sunked into a hole or opening? It almost looks like the hole may have been caused by the debris - what affects woiuld that hole have there if I don't repair it? Also, I guess the old seal just will pull (and bend if I have to) to get out?

2) new parts are coming Thursday or Friday which is when I'll be reinstalling. My question is I do not have an alignment tool and local marine parts shops want $300+ for one. Yes I can get one off ebay for $50ish but it will take 4+ weeks to get here (which I don't want to wait). I called a few marine shops to see if I can pay to borrow their's, but so far no luck. So question - any DIY ways to confirm alignment is good after I get the new bearing in?

Thanks
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