Help - major grinding noise when outdrive is up and now water is coming into my boat
06-12-2018, 10:27 AM
#31
Registered
You lost me at "JB welded a cylinder wall".
06-12-2018, 10:45 AM
#32
Charter Member
No you do not need that seal. But helps keep water and dirt from getting to the bearing from the engine compartment. So it’s a good idea to have it.
If I where to guess, I’d say those broken pieces from the bellows housing got broken beecause a screw driver was used to pry between the bellows and housing trying to break the bellows free?? Without seeing how far back the break is, hard to say if it will hurt anything. Are those broken pieces where the hose clamp is or before it?
Installing an inner bearing, new or old, into the outer bearing ring and then trying to remove the whole bearing as a unit may more than
likely just result in the inner bearing coming back out. That outer bearing race is just alum. Possibly cut it by hand till you hit the steel wave ring to relieve the press fit. Probably corrosion is what’s keeping it in there
On a good note, at least the splines look good.
If I where to guess, I’d say those broken pieces from the bellows housing got broken beecause a screw driver was used to pry between the bellows and housing trying to break the bellows free?? Without seeing how far back the break is, hard to say if it will hurt anything. Are those broken pieces where the hose clamp is or before it?
Installing an inner bearing, new or old, into the outer bearing ring and then trying to remove the whole bearing as a unit may more than
likely just result in the inner bearing coming back out. That outer bearing race is just alum. Possibly cut it by hand till you hit the steel wave ring to relieve the press fit. Probably corrosion is what’s keeping it in there
On a good note, at least the splines look good.
Last edited by US1 Fountain; 06-12-2018 at 11:00 AM.
06-12-2018, 10:45 AM
#33
Gold Member
Gold Member
I'm not familiar with "JB weld" so I googled it. OMG. Why not use Scotch Tape, it would have been cheaper........?
Pony up the money and get the job done right the first time. You're not talking about a pinstripe or loose speaker grill, this is important. Don't take chances on a quick fix.
RR
.
Pony up the money and get the job done right the first time. You're not talking about a pinstripe or loose speaker grill, this is important. Don't take chances on a quick fix.
RR
.
06-12-2018, 10:47 AM
#34
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Platinum Member
06-12-2018, 03:15 PM
#37
Read his post from last summer, boat wont go over 3500 rpm or something like that. Same mentality can I reuse this broken part and can I glue it together. Turtle Wax Rubbing Compound because it was cheaper than Valve Grinding Compound.
06-12-2018, 04:59 PM
#39
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iTrader: (3)
Speaking of previous threads...
1992 26' Sleekcraft; I have some sort of vibration in middle of boat when leg up??
Guess what.........
1992 26' Sleekcraft; I have some sort of vibration in middle of boat when leg up??
Guess what.........
06-12-2018, 05:45 PM
#40
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guys - you obviously don't understand or see the issue with the transom housing. I am not JB\ing the rubber bellows. I have a new bearing, bellows, gasket set, clamps, etc, etc. The broken pieces of the transom housing ring was only the 1/2" edge - this ring is 1.5" deep so the new bellows will slide all the way 1.5" deep around this ring and the clamp will go around the ring which has no damage - I am also going to use bellows adhesive for added strength. I even spoke with my marine parts and service guys today and he said he has seen the edges break because there is a recess/carved section under that 1/2" section so it is a little weaker and can easily break from just prying the old bellows off - the mech said it will be fine as long as the extra 1" lip wasn't damaged (which it wasn't).
So I got the outer bearing out - bought a swivel bearing attachment/puller which works with my 5lb slide hammer - got it behind the bearing and two good pulls and it was out - no problem. So here is a new picture of what it looks like with the bearing out and the edges JB'ed.
So I have a few new questions now:
1) you'll notice that warped seal behind where the gimbal bearing was - is that called the bearing seal? Should I replace it based on the picture? What does this seal do? Lastly, I tried to pull it out but in the picture you'll notice ont the bottom middle of the seal it has a section/edge whicvh appears to have sunked into a hole or opening? It almost looks like the hole may have been caused by the debris - what affects woiuld that hole have there if I don't repair it? Also, I guess the old seal just will pull (and bend if I have to) to get out?
2) new parts are coming Thursday or Friday which is when I'll be reinstalling. My question is I do not have an alignment tool and local marine parts shops want $300+ for one. Yes I can get one off ebay for $50ish but it will take 4+ weeks to get here (which I don't want to wait). I called a few marine shops to see if I can pay to borrow their's, but so far no luck. So question - any DIY ways to confirm alignment is good after I get the new bearing in?
Thanks
So I got the outer bearing out - bought a swivel bearing attachment/puller which works with my 5lb slide hammer - got it behind the bearing and two good pulls and it was out - no problem. So here is a new picture of what it looks like with the bearing out and the edges JB'ed.
So I have a few new questions now:
1) you'll notice that warped seal behind where the gimbal bearing was - is that called the bearing seal? Should I replace it based on the picture? What does this seal do? Lastly, I tried to pull it out but in the picture you'll notice ont the bottom middle of the seal it has a section/edge whicvh appears to have sunked into a hole or opening? It almost looks like the hole may have been caused by the debris - what affects woiuld that hole have there if I don't repair it? Also, I guess the old seal just will pull (and bend if I have to) to get out?
2) new parts are coming Thursday or Friday which is when I'll be reinstalling. My question is I do not have an alignment tool and local marine parts shops want $300+ for one. Yes I can get one off ebay for $50ish but it will take 4+ weeks to get here (which I don't want to wait). I called a few marine shops to see if I can pay to borrow their's, but so far no luck. So question - any DIY ways to confirm alignment is good after I get the new bearing in?
Thanks
