outonsafari

iTrader: (4)

When i called the manufacturer of the wiring harness and asked if the 496 needs a different harness (cannon plug to dash) the answer was i dont know.
When i called mercury and asked the same question the answer was no.

When i turn on the ignition the fuel pump runs and the smartcraft gauge wakes up
Push the starter button nothing no click no nothing.

This morning i disconnected the cannon plug, pulled the battery cable, inline fuse and yellow with red wire off the starter.
Continuity checks good from dash thru engine on ground, hot and purple ignition.
Continuity checks good on yellow w/ red only on dash side harness.

Seems like everything is correct except there is no yellow w/ red wire on the engine side cannon plug.
There is a yel w/ red that comes the solenoid no idea where it goes.

Next, the lug on the solenoid where the yel w / red connects has continuity thru pin 1 wether the wire is connected or not.

Something is screwe up or this thing needs a special dash side harness.

Need help looking for whatever

outonsafari

iTrader: (4)

So i found out there are relays on the engine.
The yellow w/ red wire on the starter solenoid goes up to a relay then a yellow w/ black wire comes out and goes to the 7 pin on the engine cannon plug which matches the 7 pin on the dash cannon plug and i have continuity.

I swapped the relays around since they are all the same number and get the same result, fuel pump and smartcraft turn on but
No crank no click, so i guess it isnt the relay.

Anyone have any idea

AllDodge

iTrader: (1)

Depending on your serial number you can have 2 or 4 of the square relays. Relays are
Main Power
Fuel Pump
Start relay
The 4 don't remember right now BUP would know

Each of these relays has a fusee which can be found under a plastic cap. MP supplies power to ECM and other circuits. The FP relay can supply power to fuel pump once MP is supplied

If you have a first Gen 496 then you would have 2 (MP and FP) but would also have a slave relay. The slave is larger and has 2 larger wires on the top post (Red/Purple and Yellow/RED), and 2 smaller wires on the bottom post (Yellow/Red and Black)

The small Yellow/Red will come from the key to this small post. Key is turned to start and applies 12V to the coil and the other side is ground.

outonsafari

iTrader: (4)

Thank you all dodge.
Ive seen quite a few posts by you around the internet and they are clear and detailed.
Seems like you have helped many people out. Im sure they appreciate it as do i.
Serial owo60640 should have included that.

Ok i got some some big help today, all members, one of which took time away from his work to drive over and ask
the other two for advice on how to help me, they in turn took time away from their work to explain in detail
a check, test and try list.

To those 3 members,
i am floored that you would go to the trouble and take your time to assist me with these issues.
I cannot thank you enough, or would even know how to, however and believe me,
your help was greatfully appreciated.

So i double checked all connections and have 12.5-6 or so volts all the way to the starter relay.
Swapped relays around and get same result fuel pump runs, everything else nothing.

Powered up via another circuit.
Jumped start button jumped ignition
Jumped start wire from dash to cannon
Jump start wire from button past engine cannon ( t'd into yel w/black which gos into start relay),
Touched that wire to battery, nothing

With shift/throttle nuetral safety and without, shift arm swung out of way and not touching
shift bracket nuetral safety
With smartcraft removed and terminator installed plugged unplugged jiggled tapped and swore at the whole thing
All ways and in various combinations.

Jumped yel w/red wire from starter solenoid and brushed that wire across the battery terminal
that does make abig click, but i didnt hold it there to see if it would roll over.

I believe that every wire and every connection is good, 5x5 tone on continuity and well over 12 volts.
I am 100 percent sure that the wires are in/on the correct pins in the cannon plug
and am equally sure that my wire size, switch and fuze capacitys are more than enough all the way thru.

There is continuity from the starter relay to the starter solenoid via the yel/red wire
There is continuity from pin 7 to the starter relay via the yel/blk wire.
And again there is over 12 volts to the start relay.

Thanks again to all the members who have taken the time and effort to help me.

Its like getting the g.i. joe combat assault vehicle with radar machine guns jungle camo and extra grenades
for christmas but not the 6 d cells to fire it up and terroize the family dinner

AllDodge

iTrader: (1)

This is a new problem where it won't start, it use to start right?

Serial number helps thanks
From what I'm finding the Yellow/Black is used when a transmission is used and not an out drive. It's used to break the ground side of the start relay coil for neutral safety.
This is the old style slave solenoid which the shows the black wire going to ground. I show this as how the circuit works for out drive and neutral safety in the throttle handle. For inboards the neutral safety switch is on the trasmission



Here is more of what you should have and I've replaced the slave relay with the start relay (does same function).
Check voltage on pins 85 and 86, these pins power the coil to energize the relay. One goes to the switch in the transmission and the other comes from the start button/key. Push button to start and see if you get 12V on either one of the contacts

outonsafari

iTrader: (4)

Thanks for the ongoing help, i appreciate it
First pic is wires leaving engine side cannon plug.
Yel w/black is pin 7 and goes to start relay.
I t'd off it and connected to start button in case pin 7 was bad/loose,
or if brand new wire harness boat side to dash is defective,
in any case it shows 12.5 volts when start button is pressed but nothing happens.

Second pic is start relay you can see yel w/black wire.
Yel w/red wire goes to starter solenoid/bendix all confirmed via continuity check.

Been on charger for 2 hours when it shuts off ill give it a try, maybe its down on amps.
Battery is brand new interstate 27m xhd 800cca 1000mca

If that doesnt do the trick then i will install a wire directly from the start button to the starter solenoid.
After that ill start asking questions like "can i take the quisanart radar range electric typewriter
off the top of the engine and put a carburator and distributor on it.?"

Edit in, the dual function sigle lever throttle shift is new, i have tried it in all methods with the nuetral safety connected and jumped, the nuetral safety on the shift bracket is unobstructed, the cables are disconnected and the arm is swung out of the way.
I have not tried it with it unplugged.

outonsafari

iTrader: (4)

It starts and runs.

There is a 6 foot long wiring harness that was plugged into the engine up top (big purple plug)
that i removed back when i was replumbing and putting the exhaust kit on.
It was stored same place as the serpentine belt so when that was installed the harness was just sitting
on the workbench the whole time
It only plugs into the engine harness and no where elsebut it does something to let thge engine run

Thanks again for all the awesome help you guys provided

AllDodge

iTrader: (1)

Check on the start relay the black wire, and see if it has continuity to ground. With 12V on the Yel/Blk wire this should energize the relay and crank the motor over. If there is a good ground and 12V on Yel/blk but still relay will not energize then its a bad relay. If it does energize and will not start, pull the relay and jump across the Yel/Red and the Red/Purple contacts on the plug. Jumping these two contacts will crank the motor, and if it doesn't then look at the starter