Your best trick to remove blue plastic plug when both ears broken
 

I have used an ez out before, also got one out with a screw driver when the entire head twisted off. They are plastic so they arent in there all that tight

I've had good luck heating up an old screw driver with a torch and melting the tip into the remains of the drain plug and unscrewing. Got in the habit of just replacing those plugs every so often because they seem to get brittle. Noticed last week my marine had a jar of them on the counter now that winterizing season is upon us.

the centers are hollow - very easy to get out with an ezy out or screw driver or even needle nose vise grips - use one side of the end of the needle nose vice grips and the jaw section grabs the plug up thru the center - then screw out or break it out.

Sometimes just breaking it apart - it falls right out. Always replace them and the O rings every 2 to 5 years max. If you over heat your engine ever - replace at that time. I prob have at least 200 of them and even the brass style but only 25 of those on hand.

I removed one with a screwdriver on the water once. It had broke off and squirted water into boat while engine running. I found a non-critical bolt and used it as a temporary plug. Now I carry spare plugs.

Replace them with the Hardin marine SS type. Only issue I had with the Hardin is installing in the plastic fittings on the exhaust manifolds, just cannot get them to screw in straight. Had no issue installing in the brass fittings

S.S. drain plugs - Disimilar metals down the road not such a good idea because of possible promoting corrosion and if going into cast iron or even in brass - the threads are harder inwhich can jack the cast iron or brass threads up.

All GM blocks I've found come with brass adapters with plugs or blue plastic plugs)
Galvanic corrosion
Brass and cast Iron is considerably increased (OEM)

Stainless and Cast Iron has a marginal increase (Not being used)
Stainless and Brass has a marginal increase (Hardin Plug)

https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...4d8b4ef582.jpg

​​​​​​​Also these are finger tight and not being installed with a wrench so don't see how the normal person would damage the threads

you can cross thread by hand. lets take the cast iron V 6 intake manifold. It has a brass water drain plug in the front of it to drain the water out - its the exact same brass drain plug the transom uses. Some people change them out to SS drain plugs for the V 6 cast iron intake drain hole --- have no idea why -- they are so hard and or next to impossible to get out compared to the brass drain plug over time. This is not a one case only issue.

Why do you think the Bravo 3 becomes more corroded than any other Merc drive ? The extra SS prop. There is different types of SS and some will promote corrosion because of the disimilar contents. I have less issues with brass drain plugs than any other drain plug. Keep in mind the brass drain plugs have been used since 1950 s in I/O s. The reason for the plastic drain plug is because its a throw away item and Merc sells more by far. Merc and Sierra are the only 2 places who sell them for Merc apps.

Next why is the core plugs aka freeze plugs in the block itself Brass ? because they hold up over time. I have yet to see a SS core plug.