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Old 10-30-2002, 10:59 AM
  #31
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Originally posted by JUST ONCE
by the way the must common reason for welding speaker voice coils is from using an underpowered amp. the amp overdrives to satisfy the speaker and the ac voltage on the final stage of the amp spikes.
Let's say you have an amp that is truely putting out 100 watts (bench tested).

Now lets say you have a speaker that is truely rated for 150 watts RMS.

Assume NO INFLATED CLAIMS, and a constant power supply.

There is no way an amp can "spike" over it's maximum output. It is not phisically possible. If the speaker can handle the load, and keep the VC cool, it doesn't know the difference between a distorted signal and an unclipped signal- they are the same to the speaker.

The only exception I've heard of is when using a passive crossover system, the clipped signal from the amp may produce a signal outside the crossover range, therefore frying the speaker.

For example, many installers use a piezo horn to set the gains on sub amps. Hook it up, and turn up the volume until noise is heard (the horn cannot produce low frequencies), then back off the gains. The clipped signal is putting out high frequencies.

Perhaps this is what you meant.
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Old 10-30-2002, 11:11 AM
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that is true but what i was trying tho say is that if you have a 4ohm sub thay is rated 600 watts rms 1000 peak and your running a true 1200watt amp @ 4ohms running it @ 1/2 gain will be safer for the speaker and sound better than running it with a 300 watt amp with the gain turned all the way up and the volume all the way up it will distort and yes believe it or not can blow the speaker with time.
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Old 10-30-2002, 11:18 AM
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Dock- Good luck with your system- spend some time with your installer-system design is still the key-a big concern for most consumers is the service/warranty after the install-this is especially important in boats. Go with the product that your retailer has the most confidence and a good mfg. relationship. WARNING: Boat stereo can be HIGH MAINTENANCE and always breaks on SATURDAY mornings.
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Old 10-30-2002, 11:24 AM
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"I was under the impression that heat buildup is a byproduct of resistance. This is taught in EE 101. Therefore, your amp has to draw more current to generate the heat, instaed of producing watts. "

answer=
In amplifiers the higher quality parts are over-built and there will be more parts, which is what makes them less eff. and more heat.

High tolorance? Human ear can distinguish? Hmmm...sounds like more "marketing" info. Most amps are tested using a sine wave, and the noise appears on a scope. Scientific fact. I guess if an amp manufacturer needs to differentiate themselves, they can say it "sounds better" because it's all subjective.

answer=
i was talking about phase through the amp, when you put an imput signal in one end the output signal goes through alot of stuff and the tol. in that stuff will make the output phase different for each side.


The audio mags are brutally honest when it comes to actual output. Those numbers are from the bench tests. A power source, a sine wave, and a resistive load tell the tale.


answer=
the audio mags are not brutally honest, it depends on how they decide to test the amp on a given day. and which manu. gave them money to test it.

There is no way an amp can "spike" over it's maximum output. It is not phisically possible. If the speaker can handle the load, and keep the VC cool, it doesn't know the difference between a distorted signal and an unclipped signal- they are the same to the speaker

answer=
the amp can "spike" over its rated, because it is not rated at the highest rail voltage. those signals are not the same to the speaker the clipped signal will generate more heat, take the energy of the clip and the energy of the sine and tell me the speaker will not get hotter
 
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Old 10-30-2002, 11:27 AM
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when i said spike i was not speaking of a wattage spike but a voltage raise that occurs when an amp is being overdriven. the speaker is not going to blow from to much wattage in this case that is not what i said. the speaker is not make to handle the e in voltage that the amp is producing in essence the amp puts out a signal wave if this wave is overrdriven the signal raies till it is clipped which is when the signal wave doesn't allow the coil to colapse this than produces dc voltsage "constant non wave signal" which will blow the speaker. if the coil cannot collaple between waves t overheats...
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Old 10-30-2002, 11:36 AM
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apache77: you are 100 percant correct you deffinetely know what your talking about. i may have been unclear with what i typed before, sometimes i get ahead or myself. I understand and agree with most everything you are saying. my biggest arguement with everyone is people that run off name 10000000000000 watt amp and think its louder than a well tuned power matched system.
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Old 10-30-2002, 11:40 AM
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back to the original question of this post if you are replacing everything. buy good speakers which usually means they cost more, and buy the most power you can afford, as long as it is set up right it will be alot louder and clearer and last longer than what you had. remember lack of power and bad setup will make you blow speakers before anything.
more power is the key
 
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Old 10-30-2002, 11:55 AM
  #38
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ee101 where did you go to school? if you are out of the business what do you do now? just wondering.
I have been out of car audio for 4years. wish i had never left, maybe i will get back into it.
 
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Old 10-30-2002, 12:03 PM
  #39
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havasu i have a friend that has the same boat that you have, he has a 350 with late model vortec heads and it runs about 65 with a 21 pitch, what kind of speed do you get. i will have to show him the pics of yours he will trip.
 
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Old 10-30-2002, 12:11 PM
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EE101? were you asking me
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