stored for 2 months opened but duct taped the applicator tip after some usage for that day - just pulled applicator tip off and the 5200 sealant formed the exact shape of the long applicator, The sealant coming out of the cartridge is hard as a rock and I can not even break it off by hand. The whole tube is solid as a rock. Again stored inside at room temp for the past 2 months inwhich I opened it and used some at that timeframe. With that said air cures this stuff rock solid even sealed with duck tape at the tip of the applicator. The white portion 3.5 inches long at the top of the cartridge is the SEALANT fully cured 100 percent and not able to pull it apart. https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...2161e3192f.jpg

Quite true . I've never had 5200 not cure on me , whether in dry air OR underwater . The best use I've found for the fast cure 5200 is for repairing the cracks in a heavy plastic (insert in the ground type ) fish pond belonging to an old widow nearby who I help out now and then !

edit to add ; BUP , I not only tape the cartridge up like you do but I find that keeping them in the fridge seems to slow them down as well . It works quite well on the smaller toothpaste type tubes too but especially if you make sure that the threads are good and clean before you screw the cap back on. I tend to keep all of my unfinished tubes of sealers (and crazy glues) in the fridge now .

Oh , and another thing . 5200 isn't advised for use around swimming pool fixtures as it doesn't like chlorinated water .

I was putting forth this info because water is not the only cure for it. Water just can speed up the curing time but its only where the water comes in contact with it. Water should not see it when 2 pieces are bonded together. Like I said IMO the sealant was squeezed out from not letting it set up and not enough sealant used inbetween the pieces. The install should be lightly snugging the pieces together and allowing set up time for the sealant then tighten the pieces together 100 percent. Or he has or had a bad tube of sealant from the start . Prob end of story

Just to follow up: After seeing the back of the brackets, I would knock the entire surface down with a big grit sanding wheel or at least scratch up the entire surface with big grit paper until the surface stains and casting surfaces were scratched up really well, or gone (I would completely remove the rust-colored stain because it transferred into the 5200 on the hull). Clean with soap and water, let dry, then clean with alcohol and let the alcohol flash off. Reapply with a fresh tube (always check expiration date on adhesives) of selected sealant in the manner you did the first time (looked great!) and you should be good to go. 5200 is a MOISTURE-cure (not water, needs water vapor to cross-link the adhesive). The adhesive will use moisture available in the atmosphere to complete reaction, working from surface in, so let it set up as recommended (if in colder climate or out of sunlight, extend time. Reaction likes heat to finish). If not using rest of tube in 1-3 days max, throw out what's left. It won't be any good after the tube is opened to atmosphere. Acetone is used to dissolve uncured polyurethane components prior to reaction, so I would not use acetone on any parts/surfaces that will have a polyurethane adhesive applied to it (even though it flashes off quickly and cleanly). Hope this helps!

Bup, same thing with the caulk gun tubes of 5200 4200 and life caulk, open it and later on its done.
Ground the brackets, drilled/cleaned and re epoxied the holes for the steering brackets, they werent leaking but i had to be sure.
Opened a brand new tube of life caulk, gooped (alot) the cable in front and behind the grommet, worked it into the grommet, gooped the grommet, grommet hole thingy, clip and retaining nut, then more on the cable right at the front of the grommet before install, by the time i was done the tube started drying.
The back of the boat looks like something from the craigslist gold thread

Leaving cables disconnected for at least a week, plus the brackets have to go on and they have to cure a week as well.
Dont know , but ​​​​​​​If the kplane cables leak again, they'll be gone
https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...83e5e34ae7.jpg
https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...e02f534e70.jpg
https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...c97a35cd8a.jpg
https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...13ae1b2ea9.jpg

Florida has both, air and moisture, temp was 80 today, ill let the stuff sit before installing say 10 minutes ?
Boat wont go in the water for minimum 7 days from day of gooping.

Does the life caulk have to sit like the 5200 does before install ?

4200 & 5200 are polyurethane adhesive. They are moisture cured. When cured they retain some elasticity.

When placeing between metal and fiberglas it isn't going to get the moisture necessary to cure except around the edges.

The thicker the layer the more moisture needed. I would paint a thin layer to both surfaces and allow exposure to air. The more humid the better.

After some reading, the steering brackets will get reinstalled with life caulk.
Only concern is if i install snug and leave to cure so it forms more of a gasket then tighten,
is if the bolt turns accidentally will the seal break and leak.

Now i see how the outboard is so appealing

I swear I read some where to store 4200 / 5200 in the freezer and then take it out 12 hours before use?.?.?. Can't think of where I read it maybe The Hull Truth forums? I have a new unopend tube of 5200 in the freezer now just in case I need it some day.