New Owner of a Nordic Heat 28 MCOB
#1
New Owner of a Nordic Heat 28 MCOB
I am reposting this here as the Nordic page seems to not get many responses.
I recently purchased an immaculate 2003 Heat. It has a new motor that has been built to an ungodly amount of power. Base block is a 496, every single thing has been replaced stroked to 540, JE blower pistons, Custom GM Mercury Racing Intake, 1 of 50 made. XR drive etc. The laundry list is long as are receipts.
It runs extremely well and after reading as many post about XD i can see why it came with a 1 inch spacer, I need to install it. As when it plains it tends to blow out the prop and i have to throttle back.
With a labbed 28P B1 I am brave enough to bring it to 80mph 5200 rpm gps, that about where my skills are for now. Ill work on them a little at a time. I can push it further but frankly for me that where i am comfy at. I was told redline is at 6000.
The 28P seems short, it literally will jump out on plane regardless of load accelerates faster than my old Baja Hammer, the more trim the faster it goes. Scary to me. Using old knowledge it would seem to me it could got to 30P or better. It simply takes little to no effort to get on plane.
1. Will the drive spacer rid it of blow out?
2. Seems the more trim i put on it the faster it goes. Is this normal?
3. Rooster tail is huge, and always there, trimmed out its long but i keep getting faster. Is this normal?
4. Engine builder has 120 Degree T stat, it never see above that. He claims thats how he designed the motor. It take ab bit to get oil temp past 190 degree and builder says it needs to be 190-210 for oil to work properly. Is this normal?
5. It seems to like 2.3.5 chop, it rides amazing and seems to love that chop for speed. it just keeps going faster. Is this normal for this hull?
6. Builder says the current prop is good for 85-87 mph if i take it to 6K, Does this sound reasonable? He said a 30P would take it to just below 90 then i need to switch blower units tot he higher PSI unit that it came with ( it came with a second M3 Procharger and the mounting for it.) He said that would give it the close to 1000 hp it was designed for but would lessen the longevity of the motor. Does this sound about right?
I recently purchased an immaculate 2003 Heat. It has a new motor that has been built to an ungodly amount of power. Base block is a 496, every single thing has been replaced stroked to 540, JE blower pistons, Custom GM Mercury Racing Intake, 1 of 50 made. XR drive etc. The laundry list is long as are receipts.
It runs extremely well and after reading as many post about XD i can see why it came with a 1 inch spacer, I need to install it. As when it plains it tends to blow out the prop and i have to throttle back.
With a labbed 28P B1 I am brave enough to bring it to 80mph 5200 rpm gps, that about where my skills are for now. Ill work on them a little at a time. I can push it further but frankly for me that where i am comfy at. I was told redline is at 6000.
The 28P seems short, it literally will jump out on plane regardless of load accelerates faster than my old Baja Hammer, the more trim the faster it goes. Scary to me. Using old knowledge it would seem to me it could got to 30P or better. It simply takes little to no effort to get on plane.
1. Will the drive spacer rid it of blow out?
2. Seems the more trim i put on it the faster it goes. Is this normal?
3. Rooster tail is huge, and always there, trimmed out its long but i keep getting faster. Is this normal?
4. Engine builder has 120 Degree T stat, it never see above that. He claims thats how he designed the motor. It take ab bit to get oil temp past 190 degree and builder says it needs to be 190-210 for oil to work properly. Is this normal?
5. It seems to like 2.3.5 chop, it rides amazing and seems to love that chop for speed. it just keeps going faster. Is this normal for this hull?
6. Builder says the current prop is good for 85-87 mph if i take it to 6K, Does this sound reasonable? He said a 30P would take it to just below 90 then i need to switch blower units tot he higher PSI unit that it came with ( it came with a second M3 Procharger and the mounting for it.) He said that would give it the close to 1000 hp it was designed for but would lessen the longevity of the motor. Does this sound about right?
#2
VIP Member
VIP Member
in short...
Yes the spacer will help with blowout and it will more than likely give you a better/faster cruise speed at less RPM
The prop sounds close depending on drive ratio...I would think you could easily spin a 30 but need to know drive ratio and it has been covered many times that a hydromotive P5-x is the best prop for these boats if you can find one
You def need to trim it and its all about feel and what the boat likes as to how much trim is needed...basically have the drive all the way down and when it gets on plane slowly bring it up until you feel the boat "free up" when you feel it you will know what I'm talking about. If it starts to porpoise or hop bump it down a little and it should go away
These boats do like some chop to get the best ride and speed out of it
The oil temp is hard to diagnose...if it has an OIL thermostat not water thermostat you may need to change it for a higher one depending on water temp where you boat
Yes the spacer will help with blowout and it will more than likely give you a better/faster cruise speed at less RPM
The prop sounds close depending on drive ratio...I would think you could easily spin a 30 but need to know drive ratio and it has been covered many times that a hydromotive P5-x is the best prop for these boats if you can find one
You def need to trim it and its all about feel and what the boat likes as to how much trim is needed...basically have the drive all the way down and when it gets on plane slowly bring it up until you feel the boat "free up" when you feel it you will know what I'm talking about. If it starts to porpoise or hop bump it down a little and it should go away
These boats do like some chop to get the best ride and speed out of it
The oil temp is hard to diagnose...if it has an OIL thermostat not water thermostat you may need to change it for a higher one depending on water temp where you boat
#3
in short...
Yes the spacer will help with blowout and it will more than likely give you a better/faster cruise speed at less RPM
The prop sounds close depending on drive ratio...I would think you could easily spin a 30 but need to know drive ratio and it has been covered many times that a hydromotive P5-x is the best prop for these boats if you can find one
You def need to trim it and its all about feel and what the boat likes as to how much trim is needed...basically have the drive all the way down and when it gets on plane slowly bring it up until you feel the boat "free up" when you feel it you will know what I'm talking about. If it starts to porpoise or hop bump it down a little and it should go away
These boats do like some chop to get the best ride and speed out of it
The oil temp is hard to diagnose...if it has an OIL thermostat not water thermostat you may need to change it for a higher one depending on water temp where you boat
Yes the spacer will help with blowout and it will more than likely give you a better/faster cruise speed at less RPM
The prop sounds close depending on drive ratio...I would think you could easily spin a 30 but need to know drive ratio and it has been covered many times that a hydromotive P5-x is the best prop for these boats if you can find one
You def need to trim it and its all about feel and what the boat likes as to how much trim is needed...basically have the drive all the way down and when it gets on plane slowly bring it up until you feel the boat "free up" when you feel it you will know what I'm talking about. If it starts to porpoise or hop bump it down a little and it should go away
These boats do like some chop to get the best ride and speed out of it
The oil temp is hard to diagnose...if it has an OIL thermostat not water thermostat you may need to change it for a higher one depending on water temp where you boat
#4
VIP Member
VIP Member
Yes but some systems will have an oil and water thermostat as well...if it does you may need to change the oil thermostat...I personally would leave it alone...if you're seeing 190 that leaves a little room for error if you happen to be in a warmer lake or a warmer day etc.
good looking boat btw
good looking boat btw
#5
Yes but some systems will have an oil and water thermostat as well...if it does you may need to change the oil thermostat...I personally would leave it alone...if you're seeing 190 that leaves a little room for error if you happen to be in a warmer lake or a warmer day etc.
good looking boat btw
good looking boat btw
#6
VIP Member
VIP Member
I hear ya...I have to run 93 minimum in mine but oh well...its worth the smiles per gallon it gets haha
#8
Member #154
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Join Date: Oct 2000
Location: SW CT & Long Island Sound
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I had an '02 for 3 years, basically the same boat without your power. I ran it in Long Island Sound which will chop up quite a bit, I can say this for sure...I would NEVER run this boat in 5's, it's not an offshore boat by any means. I got rid of it because it just wasn't suited for our waters. Real 3's, not OSO 3's were the limit for this hull IMO. As far as your trim goes, I really can't comment on that, I had a 496HO and it only saw 67 once, and that's with trying different props and in all conditions. I did find that it ran its fastest on the pad trimmed out, not on the step, not really sure the step was that effective on that size boat. It was a good looking boat, great lines, awesome cabin, loved it but we had to move on to an offshore style hull.
#9
I had an '02 for 3 years, basically the same boat without your power. I ran it in Long Island Sound which will chop up quite a bit, I can say this for sure...I would NEVER run this boat in 5's, it's not an offshore boat by any means. I got rid of it because it just wasn't suited for our waters. Real 3's, not OSO 3's were the limit for this hull IMO. As far as your trim goes, I really can't comment on that, I had a 496HO and it only saw 67 once, and that's with trying different props and in all conditions. I did find that it ran its fastest on the pad trimmed out, not on the step, not really sure the step was that effective on that size boat. It was a good looking boat, great lines, awesome cabin, loved it but we had to move on to an offshore style hull.
#10
Charter Member # 55
Charter Member
Pretty much everything you posted seems about right. Who built the engine??
More trim generally = more speed. When trimmed to max, the trim rams should not be extended more that 21.75 center to center.
As far as oil temp, it depends on where the reading is being taken--before or after the oil goes through the cooler. As long as you are not getting any condensation or milky oil, I'd leave it alone.
More trim generally = more speed. When trimmed to max, the trim rams should not be extended more that 21.75 center to center.
As far as oil temp, it depends on where the reading is being taken--before or after the oil goes through the cooler. As long as you are not getting any condensation or milky oil, I'd leave it alone.