Head Gasket debate, more info requested.
 

I plan to pro-charge this winter, I have a new (150 hour) 2001 gen VI 502, I am the original owner from 4 hours on. I ordered my new Stainless Marine exhaust today, now I am focusing on the procharger, or possibly the Gaffrig Coolcharger.

Anyway, some say replace head gasket first, some say they added power with comparible hours like mine and have been fine!

So, if I take the data I learned in my other two posts on Leak Down and Compression tests and they are good do I replace the head gaskets anyway? Is this roll of the dice? Is some installs professionally done just better?
What gasket would you use, stock replacement? Or???
Link please?
Mine would be a professional instal this January.
My motor runs like a top thus far, very very strong for a stock
502 Mag.

My next thread! To find a GREAT preformance mechanic in VA....
Or use an authorized procharge dealer.

Thanks in advance guys.
Bryan

Do you want to pay once or twice???
Replace the head gaskets NOW with Felpro marine and replace the head bolts with ARP studs. I learned the hard way so learn from my mistakes.

Dave

Are those a standard name and can be found at like NAPA?
Thanks
Bryan

Brian, I don't know what head gaskets are on that engine.
I've always used the Felpro high performance marine gasket. I think the part number is 17048. You can get them from Summit or Scoggins Dickey.

Steve great to hear from you!
Who would you hire to do the work if you was me?
Any great sets of hands in the Richmond area?
Or I could just buy a cow and a keg and come to your house and be the gofer boy!
Bryan

Prochargers are a odd item up this way. We have lot's of expertise on carb blower motors, but that computerized stuff will need some skills I don't have. "Mate229" just bought a Fountain w/ a procharger on it, check with him.

HEY I WOULD CALL ROBERT HORNE AT POWER MARINE IN N.C. TO DO YOUR WORK HE'S FAIR PRICED AND KNOWS ALOT ABOUT PROCHARGERS

ALSO ABSOLUTLY CHANGE HEAD GASKETS TO THE FEL-PRO SUMMIT MOST LIKLY HAS BEST PRICE AND USE NEW BOLTS ARP ARE BEST THE NEW 1012 HEAD GASKET WORKS GREAT IF YOU O-RING THE HEAD ROBERT CAN DO THIS

BUT PLEASE DO CHANGE GASKETS :D :D

bobby, thanks, he is now on my list of perspectives...
Where in NC? I am only 10 miles to the VA/NC line?
And have to pass through NC to get my boat back from Donzi in a couple weeks. I could pop in and take a look around...

I looked up the bolts in the ARP section of CP Perf, many different ones...
Why studs versus stock bolts?

Thanks allot, I am no wrench turner but a pretty smart guy, I usually capatialize on other peoples experiences that they have been through and their advice or what I should do etc.

Thanks again.
Bryan

IF YOU HAVE FACTORY BLOCKS THAT DO NOT HAVE BLIND BOLT HOLES THIS IS A POINT THAT UNDER WATER PRESSURE WATER CAN RUN UP THE THREADS AND CAUSE CONDENSATION PROBLEMS OR SHOULD SAY WATER PROBLEMS ,THIS HAPPENS ALOT AND IS A REAL PROBLEM WITH THE WATER PRESSURE IN A BOAT ,THIS IS FROM YEARS OF PRACTICE ,FOR REAL ITS NOT WORTH THE TROUBLE OR CHANCE OF IT THE A R P BOLTS ARE FINE FOR YOUR APP.

IF YOU HAD MERLIN OR DART BLOCKS THE HEAD BOLT HOLES ARE BLIND AND THIS IS NOT A PROBLEM ! ROBERT IS IN CHARLOTTE N.C. 704-889-3777 AND DOES GREAT WORK

HOPE THIS HELPS,ROBERT WILL SELL THE PARTS AT COST A SAVE YOU AGRAVATION
:D :D

Bryan, you may also need to change the valves. Inconel is the way to go with any blower application, and I doubt your's has them.

Fel-Pro has a head gasket with a stainless O-ring (copper for alum. heads) intended just for forced induction. It's quite expensive but seems to work. I have had them on my turbo'd 454 for 15 years and 1200 hours and it still runs great. I can't remember the part #, but back in 1987 when I built the engine, I consulted Fel-Pro and had to special order them.

15 YEARS AGO THE GASKETS WERE RARE AND HARD TO GET NOW THEY ARE EASY JUST NEED THE BORE SIZE AND TYPE HEAD !
8O.00 A PAIR ,EST
ALSO SOME 2OO1 MOTORS WERE SHIPED WITH INNCONEL VALVES ,EASY TO CHECK WITH A MAGNET :D :D :

HOPE THIS HELPS SOME !!!

Studs provide a better/more even clamping force and because of the material they are made of are less likely to allow head to lift off block under firing. Yes , this really happens but is so slight, especially in a blown application where twice the air/fuel mix is being ignited.

Bryan,

Don't go with Gaffrig "Coolcharger" as it does not put out near as much hp as a procharger or Gaffrig's new "Extreme Supercharger". Mike Livorsi had a former Merc employee, that started his own hi-perf shop, reprogram the computer. The entire system has worked flawlessly for me so far. They were even able to program into the computer a warning for high fuel/air mix temps in case of intercooler blockage issues.

Give Ron Harris a call at Livorsi Marine as he helped in the design of this system. He can certainly give you additional input - he is on OSO occasionally as Cig28SS. Phone 847-548-5900 ext. 223.

Tim

ps. 170 hours so far with original head gaskets - I know I should probably change them

NOT TRYING TO ARGUE BUT STUDS ARE THE SAME MATERIAL AS BOLTS !!!AS LONG AS THEY ARE GOOD AFTERMARKETS LIKE A R P 'S,,,,,THEY CLAMP BETTER DUE TO SEVERAL REASONS THE MAJN ONE IS THE THREADS ON THE NUT SIDE ARE FINE THREAD SO IF YOU TIGHTEN BOTH TO 50 LBS THE FINE THEAD IS TIGHTER DUE TO MORE LEVER ACTION ,THE SECOND BEST RESON THEY CLAMP BETTER IS THEY DON;T TWIST THE BLOCK SURFACE LIKE BOLTS:D :D
ALSO JUST THINK IF THE HEAD LEFT THE DECK SURFACE ,EVEN SLIGHTLY,,IT WOULD CONSTANTLY LEAK COMBUSTION BYPRODUCTS ,IF IT LEAVES THERES A BAD PROBLEM (DETONATION) :(

BOLTS WORK GREAT WHEN ISTALLED RIGHT, STUDS DO WORK BETTER BUT MOST APPS.DON'T NEED THEM !

HOPE THIS HELPS :D :D :D

Hey Bobby,

I agree with you. I saw "Two Guys Garage" on Speed Vision go over the advantages of studs. Made a lot of sense to me.

I spent today talking to VORTEC guys, still researching, lots of pros and cons with each....
Thanks
Bryan

Bobby, tell more on how to check for INNCONEL VALVES valves, mine is the end of the 502 legend, OM serial number...
Thanks
Bryan

BRIAN,THE INNCONEL PART OF THE VALVE MOST OF THE TIME THE HEAD ONLY WOULD NOT BE PULLED BY A MAGNET AND REGULAR STAINLESS WOULD BE ATTRACTED !!!!

MOST VALVES LIKE THE INNCONEL ARE TWO PART THE HEAD IS INNCONEL AND THE STEM IS STAINLESS :) :)

VORTEC IS A GOOD BLOWER OR THE GAFFRIG UNITS

have u looked at whipple chargers.they change the inj.reprogram ecu,change fuel pump.heard procharger has fuel issues.

Do yourself a favor and change the gaskets to Fel Pro.

Also, use the studs. They clamp far superior then just plain ARP bolts.

If you're going to do it, why not do it once and do it the right way??

Make sure you seal the threads too.

I've been told that at less than 10psi of boost on a BBC, that you should NOT use O-ringed heads. I have been assured that the O-rings are not needed at less boost and that unless a reputable pro does the machining for the Oring, that it is very difficult to get the grooves lined up perfectly... Also, if a motor goes into detonation, then if the head gasket doesn't let loose then the piston crowns will go or something equally soild will break.

The procharger guys and all the builders I have talked to say that a good felpro loc ring gasket will hold up fine, and that if the motor goes into knock, then the gasket will be the FUSE and will (hopefully) let loose before major component damage.

Thanks, GREAT info.
But I have continued to educate myself the last two weeks.

I have found the shop I want to do the work, build, dyno etc, we will leak down test each cylinder FIRST before charging the motor, in fact I may even postone the project if I have one cylinder off, since I am still under warranty.
As explained to me several times, if all the cylinders are really good we may skip the head job and just move forward.

Small steps then bigger ones.
Bryan