Go Back  Offshoreonly.com > General Discussion > General Boating Discussion
Closed Cooling Help/Advice >

Closed Cooling Help/Advice

Notices

Closed Cooling Help/Advice

Thread Tools
 
Old 09-27-2019, 02:33 PM
  #1  
Registered
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: May 2007
Location: PA
Posts: 1,147
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
Default Closed Cooling Help/Advice

Rebuilt 2 brand new GM 350 Mag MPI long blocks, both standard rotation. To fend of corrosion this time around I installed 2 Monitor Pro 5320 full closed cooling kits running 50/50 mix antifreeze. Right out of the gate I had overheating issues. Upon cold starts, engines heat up slowly, hit about 180 and then come down to normal operating temp around 170. My issue is after running the engines and returning to idle, 650 RPM, both engines would heat up to the point of the overheat alarm and I would have to shut down. If I increase RPM to 1000 engine temps come back down. I have a 15 minute idle back to marina, and the overheat alarm would happen almost immediately.

Thinking it was a circulation issue, I've gone to a smaller pulley on the circulating pump and have also ran an additional line from the circulating pump to the top of the intake manifold just before the temp senders to add cool coolant to hot coolant coming out of block. I still get the increase temperatures after returning to idle about 190, but no alarm at least. Just the warning light. This kit is the one designed for these engines. I'm starting to think that the heat exchanger is not size correctly and I'm getting to much heat soak. Temps do eventually return to normal but not for at least 10-15 mins. Not sure what I should do at this point. Monitor hasn't been much help.

Also, the thermostat gaskets that come with the kit did not have the brass ferrules on it, so I was have a grounding issue with the senders. I've since installed temporary grounds until I can pull everything apart and install the new gaskets.

I'm new to closed cooling so anyone with some experience, your advice is appreciated.
Splitdecision271 is offline  
Old 09-27-2019, 05:54 PM
  #2  
Registered
 
Join Date: Oct 2012
Posts: 2,061
Received 419 Likes on 247 Posts
Default

If engines do not run hot/overheat at rpm/load than I don't think the heat exchangers are too small.
Stupid question I have to ask, are the thermostats in the right way?
underpsi68 is offline  
Old 09-27-2019, 10:53 PM
  #3  
Registered
 
Join Date: Aug 2014
Posts: 935
Received 190 Likes on 105 Posts
Default

And back to even more basics, how old are impellers? Precurved would supply less at idle and kicking it up would help flow more water.
tmmii is offline  
Old 09-28-2019, 12:40 PM
  #4  
Registered
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: May 2007
Location: PA
Posts: 1,147
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
Default

Motors are brand new. Impellers have 10 hours on them. The t-stats are what came in the kit. I haven’t opened them op so however Monitor installed them is how they are
Splitdecision271 is offline  
Old 09-28-2019, 05:08 PM
  #5  
B38
Registered
 
Join Date: Oct 2000
Location: Deland, Fl
Posts: 1,075
Received 39 Likes on 25 Posts
Default

Install 160 stat, are your exhaust manifolds included with closed cooling. Most systems don't due to too much heat. I built a 400 small block which had closed cooling for the exhaust manifolds with the engine and it had similar reactions that you are with overheating issue so you can eliminate that and run the exit from heat exchanger to bottom of exhaust manifolds.
B38 is offline  
Old 10-03-2019, 07:22 AM
  #6  
Registered
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: May 2007
Location: PA
Posts: 1,147
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
Default

Kits come with 160 stats. Its a full kit so exhaust manifolds are included. After coming out of block, coolant runs down through manifolds before returning to the heat exchanger.
Splitdecision271 is offline  
Old 10-03-2019, 04:20 PM
  #7  
B38
Registered
 
Join Date: Oct 2000
Location: Deland, Fl
Posts: 1,075
Received 39 Likes on 25 Posts
Default

Final dump from heat exchanger usually goes to bottom of exhaust manifold and goes up and out riser. If your exit water is going too riser then your manifolds are closed with motor.
gasket between manifold and riser is either open between the two or closed, closed means just that, closed with engine. Manifolds create way to much heat to add with engine temp. I hope this makes sense. If not call me@ 386-785-6986. Kurt

Last edited by B38; 10-03-2019 at 04:25 PM. Reason: Add answers
B38 is offline  
Old 10-03-2019, 07:01 PM
  #8  
Registered
 
Join Date: Jun 2001
Location: Ontario, CA
Posts: 10
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

I did something similar years ago, had to take the exhaust manifolds out of the loop and temps were great after that.
As others said, to much heat with the manifolds.
Best of luck!
rampage42 is offline  
Old 10-03-2019, 10:18 PM
  #9  
Registered
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: May 2007
Location: PA
Posts: 1,147
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
Default

It’s a full kit so it’s designed to include manifolds. I run in salt water and decided to run Hardin seaward manifolds because if anyone knows 292s are very stern heavy. So anything to reduce weight is a positive. I just didn’t think I’d have these issues.
Splitdecision271 is offline  
Old 10-04-2019, 05:39 AM
  #10  
B38
Registered
 
Join Date: Oct 2000
Location: Deland, Fl
Posts: 1,075
Received 39 Likes on 25 Posts
Default

Is your exhaust dumping threw y pipe, or straight out transom.
way more heat built up with y pipe verses straight out.
​​switchable to straight out maybe an option too eliminate heat.
B38 is offline  


Contact Us - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Terms of Service

Copyright © 2024 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.