Gaffrig Indicator Removal
 

Anyone know how to remove gaffrig indicator. Pulled dash and I’m scratching my head…


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We got the spring loaded white pointer out…how are the cables attached to the stainless bracket?

I believe set screws through backside of the bottom bracket.

It’s a two piece unit first you wanna remove the four nuts that hold the mechanical indicator, then you remove the four nuts that hold the faceplate

hahahahahaha this is a comically horrible design. I see them now.

Hate that ****ing thing! Scratched up a lot of **** trying to get it apart on the 311 to replace cables.

They are a pain in da azz and even worse putting them back together.

Do you see the little pin holes in the pointers and little square that they sit in?? You have to unbend paperclips and put them through the holes to keep them together when you re install.

Our plan was to place pointers back in white holders…and place top cover back over placing each pointer into each respective slot. Then try to put the nuts back on. Is there a trick to doing this. What I just said is likely easier said than done.

I just pulled mine out and was astonished at how crappy of a design it is and how utterly difficult to remove it was. If the new digitals weren't so ungodly expensive, I would be converting.

Hopefully Gaffrig just sells the lens and card if you call them, because they don't list any individual parts for sale on their website, otherwise I'm having to buy a whole new one haha (which wouldn't surprise me one bit these days).

throwback to the stone ages. I’m actually surprised it works how it’s designed. Scary

I just got off phone with Gaffrig, they don't sell any individual parts, have to buy entire new assy. Mine has crazed lens like yours and I wanted to change the card color if I could, but looks like I need to buy a whole new one for $300.

I think I'll buy one from Eddie Marine, way more color options then Gaffrig and looks identical at $289. Hardin/CP Performance is just a stupid amount of money more (over double) even for their mechanical ones.

You can always take the lens out and go to your local glass shop and they could cut one out of plexiglass for about 10 bucks

You used to be able to buy just the lens. If that's all you are trying to fix, I'd do exactly as boatnt mentioned. Take it out, and have a new piece of Lexan or whatever material cut to fit. You could even have it made out of a piece of glass, and as long as it's well cushioned, I think it would be fine.

The actual indicators that ride the back of the card are spring loaded. Be sure not to let them shoot out and disappear on you. It would be good to lay a towel down below your work area.

I took the old piece and used it as a template. Used 4.5mm thick acrylic and router.

Your "Gaffrig" is most likely Livorsi.
Gaffrig Precision Instruments became Livorsi Marine
Gaffrig Performance won the right to keep the Gaffrig name in a lawsuit.

We made our own lens


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We yanked the whole unit out and went with the 3D gauges. Just an option for you.

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Best to just sink the boat…

Yeah, but my card behind it was a bit ratty looking and wanted to change color anyways to match the rest of the new dash I was installing. Bit the bullet and ordered one with polished rim an platinum face (matches new gauges I am installing) from Eddie Marine this morning. At least they sell the individual parts if ever needed haha.

yea sell them individually for now…

They are truly unGodly to work with.

Brutal

Last year we had to take the co-pilot helm off…half the boat had to come apart. Part of the headliner had to come out. Was ridiculous.

Are Mercury any better/easier? I'm replacing cables this weekend.
I installed Bluewaters on my Panther and didn't think it was that bad. A bunch of little components that could be lost.
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I think mine is actually a Merc one and it is slightly different than the Gaffrig one posted. Its no better and maybe worse.

I’m guessing they are similar…

we finished our installation today…gotta be honest there is a lot of slop in this type of cable system. we put a straight edge on the hull and measured tab angles. The indicators on the dash aren’t very accurate. I used to think they were better. Until you scrutinize them…they are garbage.

they are especially bad when you change directions. It takes force/displacement to overcome the friction between the pegs and indicator plate. The tabs move for a couple seconds before the indicators start to move. My guess is the vertical indicators like the old cigs had are more accurate.

oh well…

Mine move instantly. Your cables might be binding a little.

the cables are brand new… the tabs will move for a second and then the indicator will jump to the position. Meaning the indicators dont react instantaneously. I didn’t swap out my outdrive cables but they do they same thing. Guessing it’s done it forever. And likely normal. I don’t expect much out of this system with how archaic it is…