Originally Posted by BBYSTWY (Post 4855683)

Holy crap this thread blew up!! Hahaha sorry been away for a couple days

Saber....I heard countless stories like yours about PE and that's why I went there however my experience was NOT as described. I don't like bashing people on the internet but being this thread is to educate and help PQ I will disclose some of my experience.

I will include pics to show the outcome. I paid them to assemble, machine, dyno my motor...the works they had it from day one. Ultimately I ended up with a stuck valve, ruined piston, 2 seasons of boating, ruined rocker arms, ruined head castings, and an enormous RAN UP BILL since it was brought up. I know everyone can have a bad day and sh!t happens but what ruined my experience was their lack of ownership for their work and the professionalism to make it right.

Valve clearances were set at less than .001 which is obviously a no go
Push rod length was too short on exhausts if I remember right causing the rockers to bind and get ruined
The head guy that Dan(ICDEDPPL) recommended got my heads after the stuck valve and found all this...
PE did take the heads back and go through them again after the stuck valve and not being confident I went to Dan's guy with them untouched and he found that it broke the guide casting in the head and PE jb welded it back on never telling me what happened...the clearance he found was set to .001 which would have seized a valve again if used.
I don't remember numbers but the springs that PE sourced, sold me, and installed were so light that I was floating the valves at 4900 and the motor would not run over that rpm...remember they "dynoed" this motor to 5600 and 5 lbs of boost according to their sheet they gave me.
In the end, the bottom end was done pretty well but I ended up starting over with all new parts, went to a 540, bigger blower, heads built by Mike(Dan's guy), machine work done by another shop, all assembled by yours truly, cam spec'd by Mild Thunder, push rod length determined by me, and all put together then installed in the boat. So far 15 hours in all is well. Full disclosure I do have an oil leak that is my fault and I'm upgrading my EFI/ignition this off season but the nuts and bolts of the engine are still kicking strong.

Now...this is my experience with them and I get it every shop has bad days but what turned me away was the second time they "went through" the heads to make them right and almost 2 years in PE basically told me this is it and you're on your own good luck. NEVER ONCE did they tell me that there was any issue with the heads or that the seized valve broke the casting. Got them back and they were "good to go" good luck..obviously as stated above that was not the case...the bill was 1300 bucks higher than quoted with no explanation as to why...was just told that more parts were needed yet was never called and told..I asked what parts and the owner of the company told me he doesn't know and "didn't want to bug his builder to find out and it is what it is"

Just a bad experience all the way around and I will personally not go back...now as I said right at the beginning....I heard numerous great stories like Saber's but this was mine so take it for what it's worth.

Here's some pics....this motor had dyno time and a half mile of idleing with 200 yards of 4800 rpm when these pics were taken....
https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...d901aa5639.jpg
https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...f0078ae4da.jpg
https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...a38c8df22b.jpg
https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...875e8d9040.jpg
https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...ebf3c68716.jpg
https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...dad23b2990.jpg
https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...b452865eaa.jpg

Originally Posted by PQ290Enticer (Post 4855766)

LOL!!!! Snapmorgan, I SEE IT!!! Well like I said, it's confusing.....you know reading instructions. Now I know that the ring gap I have isn't even mentioned in the chart! I think the "Factor Number" would have to be .0050?

Originally Posted by PQ290Enticer (Post 4855752)

Full Force, I did by this unit.

Innovate DLG-1 Dual Lambda Air/Fuel Ratio Gauges 3891

It will monitor one bank of each engine. I'm hoping that is enough. FYI I'm using a QFT M-800 double pumper with the RPM Air Gap.

Originally Posted by PQ290Enticer (Post 4855697)

So I'm thinking the answer is no however, If I tear down to the short block, is there any way to verify piston to wall without piston removal?

Originally Posted by TeamSaris (Post 4855567)

to quote an article we did for engine builder magazine
..."there are no adequate preassembled heads for the marine environment. You MUST buy a bare casting and do your own setup...."

Originally Posted by TomZ (Post 4855839)

Get heat sinks for the sensors. It will help them last longer in a wet exhaust system. Left bank is best to read on your set-up, but while you have everything apart, it may be wise to have bungs added to the other risers so you can swap side to side to see both banks.

Originally Posted by Full Force (Post 4855892)

you don't run them in a wet system, you weld in bungs in and out of the jacket, at least that's what I did

Originally Posted by TomZ (Post 4855932)

He’s not running dry pipes so it’s a wet system. He has bungs welded in on one bank. I was saying to add another bung to the opposite bank so that he could check both for better accuracy. The heat sinks help save the o2 sensors from reversion and water vapor (I know you know this… just responding to be clear).

Heat sink from Innovative:

https://www.amazon.com/Innovate-Moto.../dp/B000CO9MFI