Help with old Merc trim tab indicator cables
 

So I have these old tabs that I assume are Mercury Marine. I have the rod that connects the cable to the bottom tab. And I have a through hull fitting to run cables at a 45 to the tabs. But what actuality is suppose to hold the end of the cable? From transom to tab is 15 inches in the up position. I can't see a cable end not binding at that length. Does anyone have pictures of how this is supposed to work, or have an idea of how to make something work.

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It doesn't look like your tab mounting plate has spot for the cable to go through?? Must be older tabs and you will probably need to drill it to accommodate the cable.
Here is the entire kit. https://www.mercruiserparts.com/8456...uator-kit-plas
The parts can be ordered separately. I'm sure Marc at Bam/Meruiserparts.com could order what you need.
Here is a pic of what it looks like.
https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...5ee33a1496.png

I was just planning on using this style of through hull, but I'm afraid it puts the cable at too much of an angle. Which makes the cable throw longer than a mechanical indicator can accommodate.

To mount the fitting in the tab like Griff said I would need to weld a boss on the tabs, but that may end up being what has to be done.

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There was old style hardware for these early tabs that secured the thru-hull cable in two places.

While tab is off drill an tap it for 1/2" NPT in the area where Griff's pic showed. (inline with cylinder) Mount tab. Then drill hole in transom in the middle of hole just large enough to pass cable through. Buy 1/2" NPT cord grip from hardware store, (I prefer plastic) fill hole and threads with favorite marine sealant/caulk of choice, (I like Loctite PL40) tighten cord at desired length of cable exposure.
Note... mock up lengths before using sealant.
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So the geometry of the cable is killing me if I drill the tab. I come up with 36* for the fitting, which is 11* of deflection for the end of the cable. Can they operate in that much of a bind?

Can someone mesure the angle or the fitting in merc tabs?

And if I make the geometry line up with the cylinder where their is the least cable deflection the trow will be longer than indicater will allow. Damn OCD...

Mercury Racing Accuator Grip Kit part number #845630A02 Attachment 577565

You don't plan on using your fitting correct? You are using 33c cables correct? Where are you getting these angles? With the Mercury kit (which is actually a cord grip) it's a straight travel and a little bend on the other side of the transom. Also the travel of the 33c cable should be more than that of the cylinder.

I'll use whatever will work honestly. I got the angles by measuring them while mocking it up in the full up and full down positions. MERC had to split the difference on the angle of the cord grip. Every pic I have seen the cable its not at the same angle as the cylinder which has to put it in a bind somewhere.

Do you happen to ha e a picture of one?

I'd drill and tap the tab like Rookie said. The cables can handle the angle just fine. Mine are 26 years old.

(20+) Marketplace - 1987 Cigarette 24 Firefox | Facebook

Saw this old firefox and looks like they used a 45 thru hull and then some kind of router that attached to the cylinder to get the angle right. Might be an additional option.

I had a circa 1990 and have a 1989 boat now and both have cables going thru a hole in trim tab mount

I`ll get a picture for you.

I have old trim tabs like you. The cable housing attaches to the transom bracket with one iof these cable brackets and the end of the cable is attached to a ball stud that attaches to the K plane itself. And then the cable runs up and goes thru a clam shell above the waterline.

https://nuwavemarine.com/aftermarket...xoCouQQAvD_BwE


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when you drill the hole for the cable to go through the transom, you need to first drill the hole, then come back & make the hole bigger/taller on the inside of the transom, so that the cable comes through & flows upward so it won't be bent at all. this goes for any through transom fitting that you put the cable through. seal it, when done, of course, with caulking.

Also, when drilling out the new transom on my AT. I made up a batch of resin and MEKP and dipped pipe cleaners it and then used the pipe cleaner to coat the wood to add another protective barrier from water. Be sure to add tape so the resin doesn't run down the gel/paint. I did that for all holes and cutouts.
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https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...e04f9431e.jpeg
https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...ee51efea1.jpeg

That's the set up I'm going with on mine.

Thank you to all that replied and helped me find a solution. Greatly appreciated!

https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...431668f580.jpg
This is what i ended up doing. Seems to be best of both worlds. Shortest cable with lest amount of deflection. And has the same 3" of travel as my indicator.