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Also, that burnt smell is normal. It's just old oil and steel.
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Originally Posted by PQ290Enticer
(Post 4915112)
Lol!! I'm sure he does.
Quite frankly, It wasn't until I made these engine upgrades that I realized I wasn't changing ALL of the oil. It bothered me for that very same reason that sucking oil through the dipstick tube was not doing the best job of removing ALL of the oil so I installed a system where I now pump it out through the drain plug location. Maybe some of you still suck the oil out through the dipstick tube however it bothered someone else too and they came up with a solution and I bought it. People who get you is priceless. :ernaehrung004: Isn't there some irony in how harsh the marine environment is and the stress on marine engines and how we carefully monitor the oil temp and pressure and then we don't change all of it? It doesn't matter to me that I'm the only one(?) that is bothered by this but it does and I can't really help who I am. We all have our little demons don't we. Lol!! Thanks to bajaman for answering the original thread question however there's another question buried in the post and I am wondering if anyone can answer it. Can I apply air pressure to one of the other inlets on the remote oil filter location and force the 2 qts of oil back into the pan for removal? I really appreciate your time and comments. Padraig |
Originally Posted by Padraig
(Post 4915145)
Looks like no one can or will answer your question.
Padraig Can he put air to the fittings? Sure. But there's really no point. |
Padraig, Yes, that is what it seems.
Everyone is hung up on why it's not really necessary in their opinions and I was trying to explain that it is necessary in my opinion. Maybe if I put the question again in a different way. What I really want to know is IF I apply air to the remote oil filter block to purge the system as much as possible, is there a chance that I may "F" something up? I wouldn't want the oil pump to loose it's prime (if that's possible) or who knows what hence my question. Is there a check valve between the oil pump and the filter? No way to force the oil back that way correct? So it would have to go through the cooler etc. TomZ My cooler is below the engine along with most of the new lines. The thermostat is about even with the pan. Now I am thinking about the amount of oil again and I think when I change the oil it only takes 6 qts INCLUDING filling the filter. If that is correct, I have a full 3rd of the overall capacity not getting changed. Now I feel even more anxious :poopoo: Anyone on here have a 7.4? If yes, how much oil does it take? |
Many automotive applications now have oil coolers. Diesel engines have them and some are pretty big. You never get all of the oil out. I think you’re stressing over a non issue. And sorry, I still haven’t answered your question.
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Originally Posted by liberator221
(Post 4915153)
Many automotive applications now have oil coolers. Diesel engines have them and some are pretty big. You never get all of the oil out. I think you’re stressing over a non issue. And sorry, I still haven’t answered your question.
However I am going to take a closer look at the Dodge next time I change the oil. I'm just going to try it and see what happens. Won't be till next fall. I'm sure everyone will be on pins and needles waiting to hear what happens. Thanks to everyone for their time and comments. We will pick this up next year. |
Oil cooler doesn't hold much.
I am very anal when I do my oil changes. I let the oil drip from the pan with the car tilted toward the drain. I put the plug back in when no more drops are coming out. On my street car with oil cooler, I will remove the 2 lines going to it and use air to blow out as much as I can. Cooler is 24" long and holds about qt to qt and half. But that isn't to hard to do on it. Does it make a difference in the end? Probably not much lol. Get a much oil as you can get out and call it a day. The drain plug drain kits are the way to go. That should get most out of the pan. |
Originally Posted by underpsi68
(Post 4915160)
Oil cooler doesn't hold much.
I am very anal when I do my oil changes. I let the oil drip from the pan with the car tilted toward the drain. I put the plug back in when no more drops are coming out. On my street car with oil cooler, I will remove the 2 lines going to it and use air to blow out as much as I can. Cooler is 24" long and holds about qt to qt and half. But that isn't to hard to do on it. Does it make a difference in the end? Probably not much lol. Get a much oil as you can get out and call it a day. The drain plug drain kits are the way to go. That should get most out of the pan. I did buy a pretty big aftermarket oil cooler. I don't know what it holds but it has to be close to a couple qts. You said: "Does it make a difference in the end? I would argue that it makes a difference to you. If it made absolutely no difference, I'm sure you wouldn't put forth the effort. It gives you piece of mind and a sense of pride in doing the best you can regardless of the task. That's what I would like to do in this case however I don't want to mess something up. I'll have first hand knowledge next year and post what happens. Could be an oil sh!t show. Thanks for your comment |
You hot 353k on your work van? Sounds like your maintenance routine is spot on dude.
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Originally Posted by liberator221
(Post 4915162)
You hot 353k on your work van? Sounds like your maintenance routine is spot on dude.
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