salt water boats
01-08-2003, 04:35 PM
#11
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I also think much of the damage is done while the boat is still new and in the possession of the dealer. I don’t see too many dealers rushing back to flush engines immediately after giving a demo ride in salt water like most owners do.
01-08-2003, 04:45 PM
#12
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If you flush everything and dip your entire boat in CRC/303 EVERY time it is exposed to salt water, salt mist, or a picture of salt, then you may not have any salt problems.
If you do NOT do the above then you will.
That said, there is a HUGE difference in a boat rigged for salt duty and a cheap freshwater boat. A cheap boat built for nonsalt usage will have a different grade of stainless hardware that will shine brightly in freshwater usage but will stain, corrode, or even rust in salt. A cheap freshwater boat will not have double grounding/bonding systems to ensure that ALL metal pieces on the boat are electrically bonded to eliminate galvanic problems. Vinyl quality, thruhull fittings, the thickness and grade of canvas/isinglas, placement of drains, and other details mark the difference in survivabililty of a boat in salt.
Even within the same brand of boats, different classes and sizes are biased towards different markets.
Sea Ray sport cruisers under 35' versus over 35' are a good example of different intended markets (hint: the bigger ones are better suited to salt duty).
Here is what a boat broker in FL told me (regarding cruisers that sit in the water):
New canvas every 2 years. New bottom paint every year or twice a year. Topside wax monthly. Metal polish quarterly. Bottom clean (with a diver) monthly. Spray down and CRC after every run or every windstorm (from wind driven spray).
Here in freshwater, my canvas is 7 yrs old and in like-new condition (I do moor in a covered slip). Wax twice a year. Bottom paint every 4 years. No need to spray after a run. Boats look wonderful.
I went to look at a Sunseeker that was 18 months old. I mean it was factory fresh 18 months prior. This boat had been run and put away wet every time. The gelcoat needed a deep buffing. The canvas looked ancient. Nothing else was hurt cause all the hardware and such was premium quality, but the degree of environmental damage amazed me...
If you do NOT do the above then you will.
That said, there is a HUGE difference in a boat rigged for salt duty and a cheap freshwater boat. A cheap boat built for nonsalt usage will have a different grade of stainless hardware that will shine brightly in freshwater usage but will stain, corrode, or even rust in salt. A cheap freshwater boat will not have double grounding/bonding systems to ensure that ALL metal pieces on the boat are electrically bonded to eliminate galvanic problems. Vinyl quality, thruhull fittings, the thickness and grade of canvas/isinglas, placement of drains, and other details mark the difference in survivabililty of a boat in salt.
Even within the same brand of boats, different classes and sizes are biased towards different markets.
Sea Ray sport cruisers under 35' versus over 35' are a good example of different intended markets (hint: the bigger ones are better suited to salt duty).
Here is what a boat broker in FL told me (regarding cruisers that sit in the water):
New canvas every 2 years. New bottom paint every year or twice a year. Topside wax monthly. Metal polish quarterly. Bottom clean (with a diver) monthly. Spray down and CRC after every run or every windstorm (from wind driven spray).
Here in freshwater, my canvas is 7 yrs old and in like-new condition (I do moor in a covered slip). Wax twice a year. Bottom paint every 4 years. No need to spray after a run. Boats look wonderful.
I went to look at a Sunseeker that was 18 months old. I mean it was factory fresh 18 months prior. This boat had been run and put away wet every time. The gelcoat needed a deep buffing. The canvas looked ancient. Nothing else was hurt cause all the hardware and such was premium quality, but the degree of environmental damage amazed me...
