View Poll Results: Synthetic oil or not?
Yes I use synthetic oil
301
65.72%
No I do not use synthetic oil
140
30.57%
Hell, I don't even know where the oil cap is
17
3.71%
Voters: 458. You may not vote on this poll
Poll: Synthetic engine oil or no?
02-17-2003, 09:55 AM
#41
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I have personally witnessed high-mile (over 120k) car engines begin leaking from crank seals after being switched over to synthetic from conventionals. The general consensus as to the mechanics of this issue is that the detergent package used in synthetics has one additional ingredient that is typically not compatible with the conventional bases. This ingredient is extremely effective in breaking down the sludge or parrafin that accumulates in engines over time (ever pulled a valve cover off an old station wagon?). High mile motors that have endured longer than average oil change intervals usually have a significant buildup in them. In addition to buildup around the rockers and in the lifter valley, there sometimes exists a substantial amount of hardened sludge IN the rubber seals in the motor (crank seals). As the sludge originally accumulated, it prevented the lubrication and cooling of the lip of the seal itself which burns the lip off the seal. The reason the seal never leaked is because the sludge itself became the sealing surface. Over a couple of weeks running the synthetic oil, the sludge is dissolved out of the old seals and - PRESTO - they leak.
Just passing info to others in case they do the above, get the leak, and can't figure out why.
Also, has anybody ever seen a sludged up motor that was running synthetics? I haven't but I wonder if syn lube is more resistant to sludge or not...
Just passing info to others in case they do the above, get the leak, and can't figure out why.
Also, has anybody ever seen a sludged up motor that was running synthetics? I haven't but I wonder if syn lube is more resistant to sludge or not...
02-17-2003, 01:15 PM
#44
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?????
Originally posted by East Coast B
I have read several articles on this topic...... synthetic is great stuff.... BUT..... The bottom lilne is that it shouldn't be used in engines that sits between uses.... They said that regular oil adheres better over a long period of time.... This seemed to be the general theme in several articles that I have read..... I am from the school of changing oil more often using the regular oil....
I have read several articles on this topic...... synthetic is great stuff.... BUT..... The bottom lilne is that it shouldn't be used in engines that sits between uses.... They said that regular oil adheres better over a long period of time.... This seemed to be the general theme in several articles that I have read..... I am from the school of changing oil more often using the regular oil....
Just kinda surprised
02-17-2003, 03:45 PM
#48
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Originally posted by mcollinstn
I have personally witnessed high-mile (over 120k) car engines begin leaking from crank seals after being switched over to synthetic from conventionals. The general consensus as to the mechanics of this issue is that the detergent package used in synthetics has one additional ingredient that is typically not compatible with the conventional bases. This ingredient is extremely effective in breaking down the sludge or parrafin that accumulates in engines over time (ever pulled a valve cover off an old station wagon?). High mile motors that have endured longer than average oil change intervals usually have a significant buildup in them. In addition to buildup around the rockers and in the lifter valley, there sometimes exists a substantial amount of hardened sludge IN the rubber seals in the motor (crank seals). As the sludge originally accumulated, it prevented the lubrication and cooling of the lip of the seal itself which burns the lip off the seal. The reason the seal never leaked is because the sludge itself became the sealing surface. Over a couple of weeks running the synthetic oil, the sludge is dissolved out of the old seals and - PRESTO - they leak.
Just passing info to others in case they do the above, get the leak, and can't figure out why.
Also, has anybody ever seen a sludged up motor that was running synthetics? I haven't but I wonder if syn lube is more resistant to sludge or not...
I have personally witnessed high-mile (over 120k) car engines begin leaking from crank seals after being switched over to synthetic from conventionals. The general consensus as to the mechanics of this issue is that the detergent package used in synthetics has one additional ingredient that is typically not compatible with the conventional bases. This ingredient is extremely effective in breaking down the sludge or parrafin that accumulates in engines over time (ever pulled a valve cover off an old station wagon?). High mile motors that have endured longer than average oil change intervals usually have a significant buildup in them. In addition to buildup around the rockers and in the lifter valley, there sometimes exists a substantial amount of hardened sludge IN the rubber seals in the motor (crank seals). As the sludge originally accumulated, it prevented the lubrication and cooling of the lip of the seal itself which burns the lip off the seal. The reason the seal never leaked is because the sludge itself became the sealing surface. Over a couple of weeks running the synthetic oil, the sludge is dissolved out of the old seals and - PRESTO - they leak.
Just passing info to others in case they do the above, get the leak, and can't figure out why.
Also, has anybody ever seen a sludged up motor that was running synthetics? I haven't but I wonder if syn lube is more resistant to sludge or not...
They syn are almost sludge proof they hold dirt and matter insuspension longer than regular oil ,
Also if you add it to a high milage motor your right aleak could devlope a leak just keep driving and it will stop as soon as the syn.deposits build back up,,some even burn oil for awhile
Also its fine to break in a motor on syn. it takes longer for the rings to seal due to the anti wear of the syn...----------------------
Last edited by bobby daniels; 02-17-2003 at 03:49 PM.
02-17-2003, 03:52 PM
#49
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use the merc hi perf stuff.
i have heard of some oil/additives resulting in some adverse clutch issues...what oil or what issues i am not exactly for sure.
i would only feel comfortable recommending the merc and royal purple oils due to (personal)extensive lab testing...we've also done our fair share of real world testing in various race environments.
don't fool yourself...if it looks, smells, or feels ANY DIFFERENT what-so-ever from new......it HAS been compromised.....CHANGE it even if it is synthetic!
i have heard of some oil/additives resulting in some adverse clutch issues...what oil or what issues i am not exactly for sure.
i would only feel comfortable recommending the merc and royal purple oils due to (personal)extensive lab testing...we've also done our fair share of real world testing in various race environments.
don't fool yourself...if it looks, smells, or feels ANY DIFFERENT what-so-ever from new......it HAS been compromised.....CHANGE it even if it is synthetic!
02-17-2003, 03:56 PM
#50
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Joey and Bobby,
Thanks for the info. Now I'm a bit worried. I hope the guy at least knows how to do a rebuild!
Guess I'll find out soon.
Guess I'll find out soon.
