View Poll Results: Synthetic oil or not?
Yes I use synthetic oil
301
65.72%
No I do not use synthetic oil
140
30.57%
Hell, I don't even know where the oil cap is
17
3.71%
Voters: 458. You may not vote on this poll
Poll: Synthetic engine oil or no?
02-18-2003, 04:08 PM
#61
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Originally posted by mcollinstn
MODVP
The only rolling-element bearings in an auto/marine I/O engine are the roller lifters and roller rockers (if it has them).
Those bearings will be under the same loads and conditions in a blower motor as they would be in a NA motor.
As far as roller lifters flatspotting, the Heavier or Thicker the lube film, the higher the chance of stalling the roller. AND it is more apt to occur at low rpm with heavy lube in a cold motor. One of synthetics' biggest advantages is its resistance to cold weather thickening.
The tips on roller rockers have been shown by high speed camera to either "not roll", or "roll backwards" at certain rpm. This behavior is more due to harmonics in a dynamic spring-loaded condition (think of those Gee Haw sticks where you make the propellor spin different directions) than any sort of lube film breakdown.
I notice your name MODVPSST. Your Merc outboards have rolling-element bearings all over them. The crank bearings, the rod bearings, all of them. I would recommend synthetic non-castor 2 stroke lube for you to run in them as well.
MODVP
The only rolling-element bearings in an auto/marine I/O engine are the roller lifters and roller rockers (if it has them).
Those bearings will be under the same loads and conditions in a blower motor as they would be in a NA motor.
As far as roller lifters flatspotting, the Heavier or Thicker the lube film, the higher the chance of stalling the roller. AND it is more apt to occur at low rpm with heavy lube in a cold motor. One of synthetics' biggest advantages is its resistance to cold weather thickening.
The tips on roller rockers have been shown by high speed camera to either "not roll", or "roll backwards" at certain rpm. This behavior is more due to harmonics in a dynamic spring-loaded condition (think of those Gee Haw sticks where you make the propellor spin different directions) than any sort of lube film breakdown.
I notice your name MODVPSST. Your Merc outboards have rolling-element bearings all over them. The crank bearings, the rod bearings, all of them. I would recommend synthetic non-castor 2 stroke lube for you to run in them as well.
Very true MCOLLINSTN and thank you,,syn.are truly the way to go !!!
02-18-2003, 04:51 PM
#62
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1400-1500 hours, 4.3l no rebuild, everything stock, drive the crap out of it. Most of the time it is above 4k. Actually, the only time below 4k is through the no wake zones(I had it up to 5900 in a no wake zone once though, we were seeing how high it could go!!). Oil is regular merc stuff, changed every April. Regular oil is fine. If you are making lots of power, you might make a few more ponies by switching to synthetics.
Last edited by HyperBaja; 02-18-2003 at 05:38 PM.
02-18-2003, 11:32 PM
#63
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Every time one of these oil debates come up I read them intently to try and find the best answer to the question as to which oil is the best to use. Some use synthetic, some use regular, some the red stuff others the purple. And what about grades? Straight or multi? Everyone seems to have a different answer and everyone records some fantastic results. An engine builder told me not to use synthetics in my blower motors because if I get condensation in the motors I won’t know it because the synthetics are water rejecting. At least with regular oil if I see my oil turn into a milk shake I know I have a problem and can do something about it before I trash a motor. This sounded good but others say no.
How about just using what the engine manufacture recommends? Could there be some wisdom in his recommendations or are we all just a little bit smarter than he is?
How about just using what the engine manufacture recommends? Could there be some wisdom in his recommendations or are we all just a little bit smarter than he is?
02-19-2003, 10:00 AM
#64
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Quiet, corvettes and vipers ect. come with mobile 1 that should help you some with your choice also put alittle water in a 3.99 bottle of mobile 1 , and tell me again it doesnt mix ,,,it does for sure ( I tried today,,bored ) again your engine builder is in the 70's,,,,,, syn. are even used in piston turbo air planes talk about condensation from 50 on the ground to 30 below at altitude under boost ,I use aeroshell and have it oil lab checked every time with great results ,,aircraft oils man difference is lack of ash for spark knock protection ,please use syn. its great and used in about every type racing you can name ,blown,turboed,ect.
Last edited by bobby daniels; 02-19-2003 at 10:03 AM.
02-19-2003, 12:07 PM
#65
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Originally posted by CAP071
I was thinking of running REDLINE SHOCKPROOF OIL in my drive I hear it's great. but what weight do you run? Heavy, medium or lightweight?????? I seen it on www.fishermotorsport.com
I was thinking of running REDLINE SHOCKPROOF OIL in my drive I hear it's great. but what weight do you run? Heavy, medium or lightweight?????? I seen it on www.fishermotorsport.com
02-19-2003, 04:43 PM
#66
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All motor oils are formulated to coexist with a certain amount of water, synthetic or otherwise. Condensation is a very real and very well-known part of an auto engine's environment. The water issue is a non-issue when discussing motor oil.
Gear oil is a different story. Some gear oils will suspend water, others reject water. This is true of conventionals and synthetics both.
Mercruiser specs their gear lubes to absorb water better than others. This is a plus if you go long intervals before changing gear lube. It is also a plus if you wrap lots of fishing line around your propshaft (kills the seals).
I'd rather use the lube that gives the best chance for my Bravo to live. If that means keeping an eye out for water and changing more often, then that's fine with me.
Gear oil is a different story. Some gear oils will suspend water, others reject water. This is true of conventionals and synthetics both.
Mercruiser specs their gear lubes to absorb water better than others. This is a plus if you go long intervals before changing gear lube. It is also a plus if you wrap lots of fishing line around your propshaft (kills the seals).
I'd rather use the lube that gives the best chance for my Bravo to live. If that means keeping an eye out for water and changing more often, then that's fine with me.
02-19-2003, 06:53 PM
#67
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keep in mind that water is result of combustion kids.
funny,,,,,there is so much $$$ and politics in oil as well as auotomotive industry....kinda makes it very hard to find the truth.
funny,,,,,there is so much $$$ and politics in oil as well as auotomotive industry....kinda makes it very hard to find the truth.
06-02-2003, 07:09 AM
#69
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I run Amsoil,& use Napa Racing Filter's we do change it quiet frequently..so far so good.and after 2 season's of running hard & proper maintance.. i suppose any syn..oil will do. i run 2 10.71 littlefield blower's. not to say the engine's haven't let go. They have. but not from the oil.
06-02-2003, 07:13 AM
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Originally posted by WetKitty42
Mobil 1 15-50, but don't drip it in the bilge
Syn. Oil is a ***** to clean...
Mobil 1 15-50, but don't drip it in the bilge
Syn. Oil is a ***** to clean...
