OR,

(2) Should I cut this imposing area off of the axle mounting bracket? (Surrounded in Red) I am more inclined to do this, but am slightly worried about impeding the integrity of the axle plate. This is not a weight carrying area, however, any time you mod something like this, you have to take this into account.

More pics of the problem:

Another view:

Thank you in advance for ALL of your help and input.

Ok, but just my opinion. So consider that my signed release form. ;)

That bracket appears to be the part that is mounted to the frame. The area in question is past the mounting bolt. Just with the slot itself makes me believe that the area in red outline is not a high stress area. If it were mine and the brake line is where it is, I wouldn't hesitate one bit to trim the angle iron back to provide the needed clearance. I don't see how the mount will even see the modification as far as strength. It's out past the working area. Just touch up the cut edge with paint.

Thanks fellow Hoosier. Any more input?

I AGREE,, I WOULD TRIM THE PLATE IF IT WAS ME. OR,,,,,,, you could rotate the caliper assy to 180 degrees from where it is

I could do that Obnoxus, but they specifically say it is supposed to be on the trailing side of the hub to keep any drag to a minumum. And I would not want the caliper on the ground side of the hub, in case of catastophic wheel failure/ejection, (had that happen once), the caliper would not be on or close to the ground, just the rotor. Thanks.

I finished the job on Sunday. Everything turned out great. The only gremlins were in a few compression fittings that kept leaking. I have not put the boat on trailer yet, but the system is working fine so far. I installed the solenoid, and fortunately the truck was already wired for this, so that part was easy. If anyone wants to give this a shot, I would say go for it. I did learn things as I went, but not neccesarily the hard way; just had to take things apart once or twice to get the fittings to go together right. All of the rubber lines to the calipers have fixed threads, so you have to figure out where to start tightening from, and then use your compression fittings on the SS lines to finish each axle/T-fitting. I completely disassembled the DICO Mod 60 Surge Brake Master Cylinder, and removed the residual valve, rather than puncturing it. It was not difficult, just took a while. I ended up being able to turn the lower hose input fitting to the calipers about 45 degrees, and just took a little 45* angle cut off of the axle mount plates, (did this with a sawzall and shortened blade). No clearance issues now. I will take some pics later this week. I am going to polish the whole trailer before the boat goes back on.

Was it easy enough the average do-it-yourselfer can do this in the driveway with limited tools? Yes.

Well, just figured I would update after a 450 mile roundtrip.

Everything went great. Axles are perfect. Brakes are perfect. Tires are perfect. The brakes really handle the boat well. We had one panic stop on wet pavement on a four lane road that turned my stomach upside down for 20 minutes after; but the trailer and truck handled everything just fine.

Some pics: