Kodiak Disc Brakes...
03-28-2003, 11:52 AM
#1
VIP Member
Kodiak Disc Brakes...
Anyone have them?
I just talked the company into selling them to me direct. Dealing with the manufacturer direct was actually quite nice, which is unusual. After the negative feedback on the WestMarine site about the Tie-Downs, and the fact that they come with the Hub and Rotor as one piece, I decided to go with Kodiak. I am finally getting new axles for my trailer, which cost a pretty penny themselves, and I want to go with 4 wheel disc brakes. I went with the Nickel Cadmium plated rotors; with Stainless Steel calipers, which are separate rotors like you see on cars, that slip over the hub, and are held on by your wheel. Per Kodiak, the place most folks have trouble their disc brakes are the caliper, which is where I would want the SS. The Tie-Downs only come with an integrated hub, and I do not need that, as my new axles are coming with brand new hubs and spindles. While they are SS rotors, the Tie-Downs have calipers that are still aluminum, and I just did not like the robustness of them next to the Kodiaks. Kodiak wants twice as much for the kit with the SS rotor as they do for the kit with the NC rotor. Kodiac has a dual plane rotor, as Tie-Down only has a single plane disc for the rotor; I think the Kodiak will be less suceptible to warping after a long road trip, and direct dip into water. They gave me the salt/spray test results, which are 400-600 hours after salt exposure, the NC rotors will start to rust. Divide that in half, and maybe bet on a a real figure, and I still have plenty of time to get to a hose and flush my brakes, OR dip in fresh water. As long as I flush them; I will be fine; direct from the manufacturer, who even commented the SS ones are damn expensive. If I sell the boat and trailer to an all salt water boater, I will tell him/her to spring for the SS rotors.
I think I have now got a nice and safe setup coming, without the added luxury of quick wearing tires due to bent spindles. The trailer that came with my boat is a cheapy, and now that I have just about completely rebuilt it, I have close to the quality of a nice aluminum trailer. (Replaced bunks, replaced carpet, added front cradle supports, replaced axles, upgraded and replaced brakes, and soon to be replaced tires).
Bottom line, DO NOT SKIMP ON THE F_C_I_G TRAILER!!! It will cost you in the end. (I didn't skimp, I was just uneducated when I bought the whole thing).
I don't know everything about axles and brakes, but I just got a crash course; and figured I would share. I will probaby ping the board again when it comes time to assemble and install next week. I know I need a solenoid for free backing, and a replacement actuator since I am going from drum to discs.
I just talked the company into selling them to me direct. Dealing with the manufacturer direct was actually quite nice, which is unusual. After the negative feedback on the WestMarine site about the Tie-Downs, and the fact that they come with the Hub and Rotor as one piece, I decided to go with Kodiak. I am finally getting new axles for my trailer, which cost a pretty penny themselves, and I want to go with 4 wheel disc brakes. I went with the Nickel Cadmium plated rotors; with Stainless Steel calipers, which are separate rotors like you see on cars, that slip over the hub, and are held on by your wheel. Per Kodiak, the place most folks have trouble their disc brakes are the caliper, which is where I would want the SS. The Tie-Downs only come with an integrated hub, and I do not need that, as my new axles are coming with brand new hubs and spindles. While they are SS rotors, the Tie-Downs have calipers that are still aluminum, and I just did not like the robustness of them next to the Kodiaks. Kodiak wants twice as much for the kit with the SS rotor as they do for the kit with the NC rotor. Kodiac has a dual plane rotor, as Tie-Down only has a single plane disc for the rotor; I think the Kodiak will be less suceptible to warping after a long road trip, and direct dip into water. They gave me the salt/spray test results, which are 400-600 hours after salt exposure, the NC rotors will start to rust. Divide that in half, and maybe bet on a a real figure, and I still have plenty of time to get to a hose and flush my brakes, OR dip in fresh water. As long as I flush them; I will be fine; direct from the manufacturer, who even commented the SS ones are damn expensive. If I sell the boat and trailer to an all salt water boater, I will tell him/her to spring for the SS rotors.
I think I have now got a nice and safe setup coming, without the added luxury of quick wearing tires due to bent spindles. The trailer that came with my boat is a cheapy, and now that I have just about completely rebuilt it, I have close to the quality of a nice aluminum trailer. (Replaced bunks, replaced carpet, added front cradle supports, replaced axles, upgraded and replaced brakes, and soon to be replaced tires).
Bottom line, DO NOT SKIMP ON THE F_C_I_G TRAILER!!! It will cost you in the end. (I didn't skimp, I was just uneducated when I bought the whole thing).
I don't know everything about axles and brakes, but I just got a crash course; and figured I would share. I will probaby ping the board again when it comes time to assemble and install next week. I know I need a solenoid for free backing, and a replacement actuator since I am going from drum to discs.
Last edited by Sydwayz; 03-28-2003 at 12:33 PM.
03-28-2003, 12:13 PM
#7
Thanks Top. I did not know that. I talked directly with Tie-Down Engineering CS, and they did not know what I was talking about with a 'fit over' rotor, that goes over as existing hub. If that is the case, and their SS rotor is reasonably priced, I will look into a re-fit, with thicker pads some day.
03-28-2003, 12:31 PM
#10
VIP Member
Platinum Member
I have a tandem axle and I discovered soon after I bougt it that
the single drums were in need of new cylinders
so I opted to do a single axle swap out to the tie downs
real easy if you have any disc brake experiance.
I used the original master cyl, just punched out the valve.
BIG improvment over the single drum. I might do the other axle
but , I would have to change the master too, because 4 disc
needs a little more volume on the master cylinder
because my original was a Drum style coupler
the single drums were in need of new cylinders
so I opted to do a single axle swap out to the tie downs
real easy if you have any disc brake experiance.
I used the original master cyl, just punched out the valve.
BIG improvment over the single drum. I might do the other axle
but , I would have to change the master too, because 4 disc
needs a little more volume on the master cylinder
because my original was a Drum style coupler
