tunnelvision

does any one have any idea how much one of these would be worth? found these out in montana while working. i've always loved how these looked after they've been restored with a slight pro-street look. i was surprized how well the bodies were . guess there's not much humidity, we worked over the winter there and they don't use salt on the roads at all. mabey that helps too. i know it'll cost a bit to re-do but they do look kool! hell he started two of them up even. they have like a low 200 ish c.i. splash rod type motor. hey an ealy dry sump! anybody know anyone with one ? thanks

tunnelvision

#2

tunnelvision

#3

doright

I've got a '54 in a helluva'lot better shape than those two. Rebuilt 225 and new Goodyears around. Re-built rear end and alternator and electric fuel pump installed. Mechanically good to go and now needs only cosmetics. First offer approaching $5K drives it home..and it is sound enough to drive anywhere in the country. I drove it from Missouri to the Gulf of Mexico, no prob.

Sadly, am moving to Milwaukee soon and have too many vehicles.

Doc

tunnelvision

DOC, DOES A 54' HAVE THIS SAME GRILL? I KNOW THEY'RE NOT PRETTY, BUT THAT I CAN FIX. I THINK I CAN ALL THREE FOR 4500. IS 1500 TOO MUCH OR WHAT? WANT TO KEEP ONE AND THINKING I COULD SELL THE OTHER TWO AT THE TURKEY ROD RUN HERE (DAYTONA) AT THANKSGIVING.

Steve_H

they made a grill change in 54'........not for the better imho.
are those 1/2 or 3/4 ton?
if 3/4 ide pass , not much resale.

doright

I think $1500 per is pretty high. I bought mine running for $300. And it had 54,000 honest miles. I got the Original Title with the truck.

The grille changed to a single bar in '54. I happen to like it better, but everybody's got their own preferences. I also happen to like the 3/4 ton better if your going to spiff it up a little. The long bed, 5 window style looks better (to me) when lowered over custom wheels. The 1/2 tons are much lighter and drive a little easier.

There are many pitfalls to look for. Almost all of these old chevies have rear end problems. Also, get ready for univeral joint replacement. The 3500's have two piece rims. Do not even attempt to use them. Pull up the floor mats. The air vent infront of the windshield almost certainly leaks and the floor is probably rusted pretty badly. Also, on these models, the battery is under the floorboard on the passenger side and has almost certainly eaten its way out of its supports. Unless you want to make a real project of it, forget replacing the wooden bed floor. I dropped a single sheet of 1/4" steel in mine for a floor. Granted, I do use mine as a work vehicle so that serves my purpose better.

Check the quarter panels behind the seat on each side. They are probably rusted.

Be prepared to replace a number of things, just to be able to drive it. The six volt electical system has to go. Put on an alternator and have the starter rebuilt. Replace the vacuum wipers with electrics. Put on an electric fuel pump.

There's a guy in Arkansas with a parts business dealing with old Chevy Trucks exclusively. He's got everything you'll ever need and puts out a catalog of all the stuff. I got shifter knob from him, original equipment. I can dig up his name if you decide to go for it. Let me know haw it works out for you.

Doc