BillR

Concerning a fluorine-based car-care product, this might be of interest:

Recently, as one example, Nissan introduced for its Infiniti luxury car a new fluorine-based clearcoat finish which the carmaker said would need no waxing for years. But, while it might not need waxing, the new clearcoat required, as do all clearcoats, special care and special products to administer that care.

Chemists from one of the most respected manufacturers of detailing products in the United States worked closely with DuPont's chemists, who had developed the fluorine-based finish, to formulate products designed to maintain its beauty and assure its long life. This product maker has a full-scale lab of its own. It staffs chemists specialized in car-care products. Nissan and DuPont approved the products specially formulated for the new clearcoat. Result: Nissan issued a maintenance bulletin to its dealers and to independent detailers recommending that only the new fluorine-compatible detailing products be used on the Infiniti -- until some other product maker came up with products as compatible with the finish (which is likely to happen). It is unlikely that a detailer's own cleaning, polishing, and waxing formulas could work on the special clearcoat finish as well as laboratory-formulated products.

The entire article can be found here: http://www.autodetail.com/secrets2.htm

Further interesting info might be:
http://www.properautocare.com/pershowcarpa.html

H2Xmark

this sounds a little like the Star brite product called Glass Cote, I have always used wax and i even use to use 303 protectant on the gel coat, well the glass cote is in a pint bottle for 23.99 never used it, but was just wondering if it is similar to what we are talking about here
Mark

GO4BROKE

iTrader: (1)

Sounds like flourine is the next greatest thing in shiny paint. Not sure what the magic is, flourine is next to chlorine on the periodic table, similar to a degree. Perhaps it makes a good base for the clearcoat and evaporates out well.
I am anxiouse to see the test results. And some OSO advertising. A 25% OSO discount would be nice too!!!

mcollinstn

While we're on the cleaning/waxing/preserving subject, has anybody tried the (heck, I can't remember the name of it) Oh yeah - Island Girl. Has anybody used any "Island Girl" stuff for vinyl and plastic cleaning/preserving? The website is pretty comprehensive and I've found a bunch of info on it.

I'm looking for something to get the "yellowing" off the white vinyl on the sea ray where the cushions touch each other (how come they only yellow where the cushions touch?).

Zyzzyx2123

Here we go again!
I have used bleach water and a ton of other products. 3M, Pinnacle, Dolphinite and Biokleen. What I found was that the bleach water rots the stitching and dries out the vinyl. The 3M leaves a residue that eventually turns a dark brown in the stitching. The Pinnacle didn't work as well as the 3M. The Dolphinite and the Biokleen were about identical as far as getting rid of the yellowing. Both took out mildew stains and both made my vinyl look great. The difference in the two was that the Dolphinite had alcohol in it and I read that alcohol will eventually dry out the vinyl. Armor All had the same problem originally. When people would use it on their dashboards it would dry and crack the dashboards of their cars. The new armor all no longer has alcohol in it. I think MaGuires has a leather cleaner as well. I am not sure though. I have never used it. Over all I (once again) recommend the Biokleen stuff. They are priced the same.
Here is a link in case you are interested"
Biokleen Vinyl Cleaner

Anybody else have any recommendations?

HyperBaja

I thought a month ago we all thought that a smooth bottom goes slower than a slightly rough bottom?

Tommy

tripps

How would it work on fresh Imron paint,white?? Tripps

GO4BROKE

iTrader: (1)

Good point Tommy.

Zyzzyx2123

I've always been told not to put anything on a fresh paint job for at least 6 months

Ric232

PTFE is the crap that's in Slick 50. What's that all about?