Steve 1

There are a lot of factors to cure out like direct sunlight on the part, as a rule of thumb always abrade the surface before Lamination.

There are several reasons I use very basic shop made Putties usually from the same material I used to build the part with initially and that being keeping the same chemical backbone lets say...

I also had a 5 QT Kitchen Aid Mixer that I used for small jobs larger projects a drill press works well… one thing MIX Well sometimes the Cab o Sill is lumpy go get a Flour sifter its important to have good uniform material..

In the old days say on plug work we used a glassed plywood plug then (Mat or boat cloth) then I would use a putty made from Glass bubbles or Q cells and some gel coat and Cab o sill once I achieved the surface I wanted we then used straight gel coat with some wax inhibitor…. It’s called many names BTW

Modifier “C” or surface wax and so on when I was Overseas we used to make it simple 100 Grams of melted paraffin in 900 grams of Styrene heated a little. Pour in the wax and mix quickly.

Used at from 1-3% in the top coat it seals the surface and allows a complete cure also lubing the sand paper a little.

Audiofn

ok so see if this sounds about correct. I am going today to take my Hutchins mud slinger with 38 grit paper on it and rouch up the top of the stuff we just put on there. I am then going to take another layer of DB tape on the corners and the joint btwn the old deck and the new fairing. I will mix some cavosillel with my resin to help with the bonding.

Once that is all done I will mix up some fairing compound with my color mixed along with Durratech in and fair it out to help with a cure of the vinylester below. I do not have any waxing agent but I think that they Durratech makes it so that you do not need any?

Thanks again for all your help.

Jon