Steve1 or Sharkey or any boat builders
 

Hey guys I glassed on my fairing today. I had a question as to if one layer of DB is enough to hold it in place. I used one piece up and over the top and back down the sides. Only a couple of small air bubbles at a few of the corners (not sure if I should just leave them or go back and grind them off and fill them in???).

I want to make sure that this thing does not break apart. It is made of NIDA Core with a Marine Mahogony cap so that I can screw things in if needed. This is the link to what it looked like as of a day ago http://www.offshoreonly.com/forums/s...702#post625702

Thanks for any input.
Jon

Audio sounds fine to me just on the bond area and up a couple inches I would of used a second Piece the DB was the correct choice just when corners are involved;

IE deck-Fairing there is a load condition at the transition we call a stress riser..

I usually just double the Laminate in that area.

Jon I just now looked at your photos ;Real nice !! and the proportion also looks good..

Best of Luck!:)

Jon 10637 ????? Holy Chit !!:D

What a HO! :D :p

Jon, have you gone ahead and scrapped 2003? Not ribbing ya, just wondering if you're going to go ahead and take this year to do everything.

Cuda thats what I was thinking those northern boaters only have like 12 weeks of great weather I would Imagine..

Steve thanks for the info. I will use some DB tape and double up those areas. All of the outside transitions for the deck to the side are straite it is only the inside front of the fairing that has a 90 degree bend there. I am going to run down to the shop now and take a few shots and post them up in a few for some added advice. The insides of the corners I did double up with the DB. I also used Cavasyle (sp) to radius my inside turns.

Jon

Cuda I hope to be in the water this year still. Lucky for me my bro is a body guy and he said he will be able to fair this thing out quickly. I hope so. Then prime with the durratech and paint with the gell.

Jon

Sorry for the late reply Jon. I have been getting my boat ready for the Special Olympic kids tomorrow at the NJPPC event called Shore Dreams For Kids.
I seem to agree with Steve. But I would also like to know what type of resin you are using being that will also play a big part in any decision. Vinyl or Epoxy the lay up you have right now should be just fine. Anything less than that, double up on the material everywhere.....or else;) -->

How is everything going Tim ??

Sharkey thanks for the reply. I used Vinnalester Resin. What do you guys suggest to do about the sticky surface you get with the Vinnalester resin? It clogs up the paper unless I waite a couple days.

This part was done in 9oz glass. It was going to be to hard to work the DB in all those angles and it is more for looks then strength.

hmmm those are not airbubbles in that second picture. There is a bunch of Cavasile that moved on me from the corner to under the glass and when I was squeegeeing it the stuff moved out to the middle of the wood.

Audio:
The Tacky surface is just the resin doing what it should! That to receive a second layer of glass (secondary bond) or dura tec Primer (air inhibited and plus the loss of styrene it’s reactive component on the surface) you need to use a fairing compound to get off the glass...

I mix my own usually Gel coat (color of the boat) mixed with a 10% Wax solution at 3% by weight then an equal part of 3-M glass bubbles then Sweeten to taste with Cab o sill or areosill sand at “B” stage then fill pin holes prime and paint.. or use Just Cab o sill with inhibited gel coat but sanding like wow… catch it and sand before it starts achieving Barcol = “B”

Of course you could inhibit the resin with wax and top coat it if that is what you want ! but you still need to chemically bond things to it like the Dura tec and then with the dry surface...check that By.........

The Acetone sensitivity test ...Fail that and you break out the sand Paper for the trusty tried and prov-en abraded bond line..

Yeah, what Steve said....;) :D :D :D
Steve, everything has been going great since the rain has stopped.
Setting out today to take some Special Olympic kids for boat rides. I am sure to make their day special even though my boat may not be super flashy. The sound of those growling EFI's should be thrill enough...:D :D :D

Ummmmmmm Steve I left my Steve1 decoder ring at home :D What should I do?

I read your first paragraph as that the tackyness is for the second layer of glass? What do you recommend that I use for a fairing compound or is your mixture going to work for a hack like me? Should I use something that is a polyester based so that I do not have the tacky problem? I have a bunch of Durraprime hanging around so that I can not have to use the waxing agent?

What is the accetone sensativity test? Or is this all mute now that I have waited a day?

Again thanks for all your info and help.

Jon

TTT

Oh yeah Tim a Boat ride will be the highlight of their day for sure thats a real nice gesture and shows you are a Gentleman ..

Audio it's a simple small area wipe with Acetone if it gets tacky then you are still in the lamination window.


Best Regards Steve Koss

and if not I am sanding correct? Am I correct in assuming that my window of opportunaty is well past, it being 48 hours since they lay up?

Jon

There are a lot of factors to cure out like direct sunlight on the part, as a rule of thumb always abrade the surface before Lamination.

There are several reasons I use very basic shop made Putties usually from the same material I used to build the part with initially and that being keeping the same chemical backbone lets say...

I also had a 5 QT Kitchen Aid Mixer that I used for small jobs larger projects a drill press works well… one thing MIX Well sometimes the Cab o Sill is lumpy go get a Flour sifter its important to have good uniform material..

In the old days say on plug work we used a glassed plywood plug then (Mat or boat cloth) then I would use a putty made from Glass bubbles or Q cells and some gel coat and Cab o sill once I achieved the surface I wanted we then used straight gel coat with some wax inhibitor…. It’s called many names BTW

Modifier “C” or surface wax and so on when I was Overseas we used to make it simple 100 Grams of melted paraffin in 900 grams of Styrene heated a little. Pour in the wax and mix quickly.

Used at from 1-3% in the top coat it seals the surface and allows a complete cure also lubing the sand paper a little.

ok so see if this sounds about correct. I am going today to take my Hutchins mud slinger with 38 grit paper on it and rouch up the top of the stuff we just put on there. I am then going to take another layer of DB tape on the corners and the joint btwn the old deck and the new fairing. I will mix some cavosillel with my resin to help with the bonding.

Once that is all done I will mix up some fairing compound with my color mixed along with Durratech in and fair it out to help with a cure of the vinylester below. I do not have any waxing agent but I think that they Durratech makes it so that you do not need any?

Thanks again for all your help.

Jon