Faster cars.... What would you choose?
07-28-2003, 09:18 AM
#31
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For all of you that are telling him to go with the 944, remember he has roughly a $3500 limit. If there are some 944s out there for that price, I might want in on some of the action!
In the meantime, we traded in a 75 Caprice Friday with a 350 and only 50,000 miles. Would make a great lowrider for the detroit brothers......
In the meantime, we traded in a 75 Caprice Friday with a 350 and only 50,000 miles. Would make a great lowrider for the detroit brothers......
07-28-2003, 09:37 AM
#32
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Saw this on autotrader, 92 Black mustang GT, 5spd, black, 113k, 355's, roller rockers, flow master, under drive pulleys, and mass air for only 3500.... I think I might go take a look at it (walking away from pc in shame of looking up ford car...)
07-28-2003, 09:39 AM
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944's a great car, I'm on my 2nd one. Only bad thing about them is, that u have to stay on top of them, not like a change the oil every 6000 mile Jap car. plus they are not the cheapest car to maintain. Parts are expensive.
Aside from that, i love it! It handles awsome. Not the roomiest car ,not good for a big guy. But very fun to drive
Aside from that, i love it! It handles awsome. Not the roomiest car ,not good for a big guy. But very fun to drive
07-28-2003, 09:54 AM
#35
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Hard to match the "bang for buck" of a Rustang. Owned a 89 Saleen and loved it thoroughly. Only other Ford ever owned was a Sable for the wife. Both cars were good choices.
The car you are going to look at: Be aware of the following on fast stangs.
Look closely at the sheetmetal area between the rear side windows and the hatch opening. Hard launching stangs will develop a slight wrinkle in that area (it's not a reason to pass on the car but potentially a discount point). Also look closely at the lower control arm mounting boxes. They will collapse on a hard launching stang. This is another discount point. Subframe connectors ($70) welded in with a "tee connector" under the seats will stop the sheetmetal wrinkle. A control arm box refit ($100) welded in under the rear seat will fix the boxes.
Lowering it and fitting stiffer springs and an underhood stru tower brace will DRAMATICALLY improve the handling, as they are quite flexible without a ST brace.
Take a compression tester with you just to let the guy know you mean business.
Stangs are the bang for the buck champions bar none.
GM F-body cars feel "long" to me. In stock form, they just don't feel "right" to me. Hotted up they feel smaller and feel good (don't ask me why - this is just my opinion).
'73 thru '81 T/A's or Formulas are on my "like them" list. The 400/455 Poncho motor is easy to make fast, you just gotta get junkyard heads, a dual plane intake and the right cam. They don't rev, though, unless you spend gazza money on them.
Good luck on your pony inspection.
The car you are going to look at: Be aware of the following on fast stangs.
Look closely at the sheetmetal area between the rear side windows and the hatch opening. Hard launching stangs will develop a slight wrinkle in that area (it's not a reason to pass on the car but potentially a discount point). Also look closely at the lower control arm mounting boxes. They will collapse on a hard launching stang. This is another discount point. Subframe connectors ($70) welded in with a "tee connector" under the seats will stop the sheetmetal wrinkle. A control arm box refit ($100) welded in under the rear seat will fix the boxes.
Lowering it and fitting stiffer springs and an underhood stru tower brace will DRAMATICALLY improve the handling, as they are quite flexible without a ST brace.
Take a compression tester with you just to let the guy know you mean business.
Stangs are the bang for the buck champions bar none.
GM F-body cars feel "long" to me. In stock form, they just don't feel "right" to me. Hotted up they feel smaller and feel good (don't ask me why - this is just my opinion).
'73 thru '81 T/A's or Formulas are on my "like them" list. The 400/455 Poncho motor is easy to make fast, you just gotta get junkyard heads, a dual plane intake and the right cam. They don't rev, though, unless you spend gazza money on them.
Good luck on your pony inspection.
07-28-2003, 10:46 AM
#36
Take it from a Porsche owner...
At your age (and financial status) the Mustang is cheap HP.
It will not look like the Porsche. It will not FEEL like the Porsche (very few cars feel as good to drive as a Porsche). It will not hang with the Porsche through the curves.
Nevertheless, it will go fast. It will be cheaper when it breaks (all cars break). It will be cheaper to make it faster. Anyone can work on it (so when it breaks on the trip to Spring Break in Florida, you can get it fixed in Podunk, USA). Parts are plentiful. A NEW engine can be purchased (reasonably in comparison) at Autozone, and so can everything else for the car.
And the #1 best reason not to buy the Porsche:
You need to drive other cars for a few years so that you can appreciate the Porsche when the time comes.
At your age (and financial status) the Mustang is cheap HP.
It will not look like the Porsche. It will not FEEL like the Porsche (very few cars feel as good to drive as a Porsche). It will not hang with the Porsche through the curves.
Nevertheless, it will go fast. It will be cheaper when it breaks (all cars break). It will be cheaper to make it faster. Anyone can work on it (so when it breaks on the trip to Spring Break in Florida, you can get it fixed in Podunk, USA). Parts are plentiful. A NEW engine can be purchased (reasonably in comparison) at Autozone, and so can everything else for the car.
And the #1 best reason not to buy the Porsche:
You need to drive other cars for a few years so that you can appreciate the Porsche when the time comes.
07-28-2003, 11:21 AM
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[QUOTE]Originally posted by TomZ
[B]Hmmmm... a bolt on'89 GT beating a 98 SS... must have been the driver. My 2000 Formula was running 12.90s @ 111-112 on the factory RSAs at MIR and Capital in MD with an airbox, WS6 exhaust, and SLP smooth tube. Being that the 5.0 GT is a hi-14 to 15sec car stock, there must have been a ton of bolt ons on that ride... sorry... been racing against these things for years with all of my Firebirds.... unless it has a power-adder, then it's still slow. Anyway, that's not the subject.
Not saying that it beat the Camaro in a race. That would have been monumental. I was just saying fun factor in driving the 5.0 was higher than the Camaro IMO!!!
I ran the Camaro w/ just over a thousand miles on it and was in high 13's. My mustand couldn't have eeven touched that, but second gear was just so much fun
like around the corners!!!
[B]Hmmmm... a bolt on'89 GT beating a 98 SS... must have been the driver. My 2000 Formula was running 12.90s @ 111-112 on the factory RSAs at MIR and Capital in MD with an airbox, WS6 exhaust, and SLP smooth tube. Being that the 5.0 GT is a hi-14 to 15sec car stock, there must have been a ton of bolt ons on that ride... sorry... been racing against these things for years with all of my Firebirds.... unless it has a power-adder, then it's still slow. Anyway, that's not the subject.
Not saying that it beat the Camaro in a race. That would have been monumental. I was just saying fun factor in driving the 5.0 was higher than the Camaro IMO!!!
I ran the Camaro w/ just over a thousand miles on it and was in high 13's. My mustand couldn't have eeven touched that, but second gear was just so much fun
like around the corners!!!
07-28-2003, 11:35 AM
#38
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Anyone ever heard of the BANDIT II edition? I seen only one or two of them ever.
http://transamgta.com/BanditII/
http://transamgta.com/BanditII/
07-28-2003, 11:55 AM
#39
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Tommy,
The correct answer for you would be the ZX2. It's a good deal and the insurance will be reasonable. Whatever you do, make sure to call your insurance company and give them the VIN of the car you are looking at buying FIRST. You may find that the rate you are quoted may inhibit your purchase.
Next, If you decide to look at Mustangs (or any other car), take my advice and buy one that is totally 100% stock (if you can find one). These cars with 100,000+ miles and aftermarket parts have almost always had hard lives. Don't buy someone elses problem. If you find one that's stock, it generally means the owner knows nothing about "racing" Mustangs and just likes the pretty car.
Oh by the way, I have a buddy with a 92 hatchback with a Kenne Bell whipplecharger on it for sale cheap. Maybe like 5K.
The correct answer for you would be the ZX2. It's a good deal and the insurance will be reasonable. Whatever you do, make sure to call your insurance company and give them the VIN of the car you are looking at buying FIRST. You may find that the rate you are quoted may inhibit your purchase.
Next, If you decide to look at Mustangs (or any other car), take my advice and buy one that is totally 100% stock (if you can find one). These cars with 100,000+ miles and aftermarket parts have almost always had hard lives. Don't buy someone elses problem. If you find one that's stock, it generally means the owner knows nothing about "racing" Mustangs and just likes the pretty car.
Oh by the way, I have a buddy with a 92 hatchback with a Kenne Bell whipplecharger on it for sale cheap. Maybe like 5K.
07-28-2003, 11:31 PM
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Originally posted by Ranman
Tommy,
The correct answer for you would be the ZX2. It's a good deal and the insurance will be reasonable. Whatever you do, make sure to call your insurance company and give them the VIN of the car you are looking at buying FIRST. You may find that the rate you are quoted may inhibit your purchase.
Next, If you decide to look at Mustangs (or any other car), take my advice and buy one that is totally 100% stock (if you can find one). These cars with 100,000+ miles and aftermarket parts have almost always had hard lives. Don't buy someone elses problem. If you find one that's stock, it generally means the owner knows nothing about "racing" Mustangs and just likes the pretty car.
Oh by the way, I have a buddy with a 92 hatchback with a Kenne Bell whipplecharger on it for sale cheap. Maybe like 5K.
Tommy,
The correct answer for you would be the ZX2. It's a good deal and the insurance will be reasonable. Whatever you do, make sure to call your insurance company and give them the VIN of the car you are looking at buying FIRST. You may find that the rate you are quoted may inhibit your purchase.
Next, If you decide to look at Mustangs (or any other car), take my advice and buy one that is totally 100% stock (if you can find one). These cars with 100,000+ miles and aftermarket parts have almost always had hard lives. Don't buy someone elses problem. If you find one that's stock, it generally means the owner knows nothing about "racing" Mustangs and just likes the pretty car.
Oh by the way, I have a buddy with a 92 hatchback with a Kenne Bell whipplecharger on it for sale cheap. Maybe like 5K.
I drove the ZX2 today. The little sucker is fast with the stickshift!
I totally agree with buying a stock vehicle. I dont want something some hillbilly wrenched on and bolted some after-market stuff.
