Myco steel trailer in salt water
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Location: New Smyrna Beach, Florida
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Myco steel trailer in salt water
I would like to ask any of you guys that have a Myco steel trailer and use it in salt water whether you have any rust problems. What do you do after dunking to stop the corrosion?? Does the channel steel really make a difference in being able to keep the trailer looking new?? Its a big invetment and the painted looks really good, just would hate to have to replace it in a couple of years....
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I have a friend that bought a 96' 35 Lightning new w/ a black painted Myco in 1996.
He uses the boat 90% in the salt.
When he's done with his day trips in the salt, he swings the boat & trailer by the lake & dunks it all in, flushing everything.
Then he whips the rig home & drys everything off.
The Myco still looks brand new.
However if that seems like too much work, I would go aluminum as a painted trailer would look good for about 2-3 seasons with 100% salt use, imho.
He uses the boat 90% in the salt.
When he's done with his day trips in the salt, he swings the boat & trailer by the lake & dunks it all in, flushing everything.
Then he whips the rig home & drys everything off.
The Myco still looks brand new.
However if that seems like too much work, I would go aluminum as a painted trailer would look good for about 2-3 seasons with 100% salt use, imho.
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I just sold my Myco aluminum and then bought an alumiunum Fastload. The Myco fits the boat better and is more rigid. On the other hand, my three year old Myco was heading towards the ****ter quick. The new owner sandblasted, primed and repainted. This would need to be done every three years at a cost of $1200 minimum if you are very well connected. Retail to properly redo with new decals etc would probably be over $2000.
I did like the drive guard and the fact that you can tie down rear better but in salt water you need an aluminum trailer. Myco makes the best aluminum trailer if cost is no object. The Fastload was less than half in cost and moves the boat well.
I did like the drive guard and the fact that you can tie down rear better but in salt water you need an aluminum trailer. Myco makes the best aluminum trailer if cost is no object. The Fastload was less than half in cost and moves the boat well.
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Look into EXTREME Trailers. They make a painted GALVATUBE that looks just like a painted steel trailer but is galvanized, primed and powder coated in any color you wish. They are built very well and are warrantied.
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Go aluminum..... add the stainless hardware package, the torsion axles instead of leaf springs and DON'T go with the drum brakes, invest in the disk brakes. After you dunk the trailer, the disk brakes are easily washed with a hose and if you want, you can spray them down with CRC to really maintain them. No steel, no steel, no steel anywhere!!! You can go with the aluminum I beam, but as stated above Myco and a few others use a "C" channel rather than the "I" beam aluminum. The "C" channel is really sharp!!! Then you can start talking goose neck!!!! Good luck!!!
Watch out for FastLoad... a good trailer for the normal I beam builders, but it's delivered late, parts will be missing and service is horrible.... I've had two fastloads, best bang for the buck though for an I beam once I got it all together properly....
Watch out for FastLoad... a good trailer for the normal I beam builders, but it's delivered late, parts will be missing and service is horrible.... I've had two fastloads, best bang for the buck though for an I beam once I got it all together properly....
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