Anybody can help me with radar and windless install?
#1
Guest
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Anybody can help me with radar and windless install?
I need to know who in the dana point, newport area can do an install of a POWERWENCH 600 WINDLESS and a JRC 1000 MARK II radar onto a 29.5 Cierra 2850 cruiser without charging me an arm and a leg. Ive been getting quotes upwards of 1300 bucks!!!
It seems it should cost less than that!
Have any of you tried to do an install yourself? whats involved? how long did it take?
my boat is in dana point harbor right now, but i could drive it to any other nearby harbor for install. otherwise, it would take an onsite mobile guy to do it, as i dont have a trailor at this time.
if you have a referal for me, please give me the name and phone number!!!
It seems it should cost less than that!
Have any of you tried to do an install yourself? whats involved? how long did it take?
my boat is in dana point harbor right now, but i could drive it to any other nearby harbor for install. otherwise, it would take an onsite mobile guy to do it, as i dont have a trailor at this time.
if you have a referal for me, please give me the name and phone number!!!
#3
Guest
Posts: n/a
i was just wondering if somebody out there might know a place to recommend that wasnt gonna gouge me...
i would definitely prefer to have it done by a pro, but jeeze, they are quoting me 8 hours at $100 per hour to install the windless... could this be accurate?
i would definitely prefer to have it done by a pro, but jeeze, they are quoting me 8 hours at $100 per hour to install the windless... could this be accurate?
#5
Originally posted by MitchStellin
A blast from the past, All that work on the Scarab didn't teach you that?? Does this mean more Monday Nickslick??
A blast from the past, All that work on the Scarab didn't teach you that?? Does this mean more Monday Nickslick??
Hahhhaaa...
Right out of Caddy Shack
"hey! you scratched my anchor"
Welcome back Nick
#8
Charter Member #232
Charter Member
8 hours sounds about ok for that kind of a job. Lot of work to put on them them in. Have to mount it up that will take a few hours, then run all the wireing and what not.
Jon
Jon
__________________
Put your best foot forward!
Put your best foot forward!
#9
Platinum Member
Platinum Member
It's nothing that you can't do yourself. It will take every bit of a whole weekend if you tackle it but the labor is free cause you are playing with your boat.
Windlass install requires running heavy gauge wires from the batteries all the way to the winch plus the wires for the control circuit (and most people loop the power wires near the dash to install a HD cutoff switch there). Nothing magic, but you gotta find a place to route the wires, a way to fish them thru, and how to restrain them to keep them from bouncing around in rough water.
Radar is no biggie either, you just gotta decide whether to get a strut mount to get it high enough, then fish all the wires. Remember that you cannot cut the main bundle from/to the magnetron cause the length of the wires is calibrated into the timing circuits of the unit - in most cases, you just gotta roll up the excess and use a few dabs of silicone to glue the bundle out of the way so it won't bounce either. Then just wire it as shown.
You will need to calibrate for parallax error and true heading (both should be covered clearly in the manual).
no biggie. just time.
Windlass install requires running heavy gauge wires from the batteries all the way to the winch plus the wires for the control circuit (and most people loop the power wires near the dash to install a HD cutoff switch there). Nothing magic, but you gotta find a place to route the wires, a way to fish them thru, and how to restrain them to keep them from bouncing around in rough water.
Radar is no biggie either, you just gotta decide whether to get a strut mount to get it high enough, then fish all the wires. Remember that you cannot cut the main bundle from/to the magnetron cause the length of the wires is calibrated into the timing circuits of the unit - in most cases, you just gotta roll up the excess and use a few dabs of silicone to glue the bundle out of the way so it won't bounce either. Then just wire it as shown.
You will need to calibrate for parallax error and true heading (both should be covered clearly in the manual).
no biggie. just time.