I'm using Interlux Micron CSC in Shark White. I have to leave my boat on a mooring so I have no choice. The paint works quite well. I only had to clean it a little bit around the water line when the boat sat for three weeks. Two coats gave me three seasons of protection. At the start of the season, wet the bottom with a hose and brush it with a stiff bristle brush. This gets the dead layer of paint off. When it comes time to repaint, I just scuff the bottom and paint. I was going to try Micron Extra with Biolux, but after checking with Interlux, they said not to use it on a fast boat. That little blurb is buried somewhere on their web site, but not on the can. You think that might be important???? What about their Teflon offshore paint???

That's the stuff.......thanks for all the info!!! Very educational!!

Nort,

My Fathers boat is bottom painted, but he still has a cleaning service that scrubs the bottom once a month.It slows down the growth process but does not eliminate it.

You can lift just about anything. Hi-tide has lifts to 120,000#s. The largest I installed when I was in business was 40,000#s for a Bertram.

http://www.hi-tideboatlifts.com/images/YachLifts01.jpg


http://www.hi-tideboatlifts.com/images/YachLifts03.jpg

Holly cow, those are travel lifts in the water!! I can't believe they can lift something that big.:eek:

repaint once a year (full haul out, dried and fresh paint).. there are services that will clean the bottom of the boat in the water cheap.. have a freind with a 41 fly bridge and i think it cost him 25usd (plus tip)(at that cost??) last time he had it cleaned.. they use a small air marker on the dock and just have a feed tube for air.. if you not have power at the dock.. like a mooring they use tanks and the price goes up to 40usd.. it's cheap.. but like you said if you can get out and run the boat once a week.. you can keep it pretty clean..

Not to mention that fact that Gel coat is very porous and allows a lot of water to be soaked up in the hull if it isnt sealed by a good epoxy primer. Between the carpet and the extra weight from the water, a boat slows down in a hurry without a properly treated hull. The prep (primer-sealer) is more improtant than what you use as an antifouling. In fresh water, I dont think anything beats VC. Easy to apply, no sanding scrapping, put a coat on every spring and off you go. I even doubt it slows a boat down much. I know my formula would lose 5 mph with a week in the water (no antifouling) My present tank has VC-18 on it and like was said, a quick blast at wot and its clean.

CSC is easily burnished (smoothed) with 320 on a DA sander. That's what I put on the 13' Whaler Missile.

We use Extra around here for cruisers (freshwater).
When the hull color starts peeking thru on the keel and leading edge of the chines, its time to repaint (right over the old stuff with only a scuff sand and a solvent wipe).

Some use Ultra, which is good for an extra knot, but it has to be sanded off for repaint.

Ohhhhh Man DONT Paint the bottom of an Apacheeeee

Nort, the most Bottom paint will slow you down on your particular boat is arount 4-5mph. (So says the rumor mill). Even with the paint you'll need a diver 1-2 times per month (depending on conditions of water and boat use) Grass and barnicles will grow not only on the bottom, but on the drives and props. Basically if you feel a vibration during udle out...turn around and go swimmin. Barnicles can wreck the drive. Both bottom paint, zincs and divers are part of the deal when keeping the boat in the water. While the boat is getting painted, have them install zincs all around. Drives, tabs, transom, more is better. this will protect the hangey down parts from electrolosis. Whatever the guys at the shipyard say to put on...add two or three more.
Another tip for the pacific. Run the boat during "Red Tide". Diver usually will not dive in to clean and growth can multiply during these conditions. So get past the stink and run the boat through its paces.
Buy the way, congratulations, and No I didnt sink on Sunday.

Matt