LPA2106

I had to take a second and tell you a couple things a buddy of mine shared over lunch today. He is a pilot and engineer and about to retire...the guy takes really good care of his stuff granted...but he has like 330,000 miles on his Vette engine without a rebulid.... a 50 year old lawn tractor etc...so we had to talk...to make a very long story very short here are a few things he mentioned:

-In his Corvette he uses Mobil 1 Synthetic and a Mobil1 filter and changes the oil every 3,000 miles..no kidding..lots of changes..but he does it in his garage for about $ 30.00/change...every 3rd change adds engine flush for 3 minutes...and that's all he did to this engine..he puts about 80,000 miles per year on it... he is now in Arizona and mostly highway miles. If he dosen't drive it for a month or 2 as he travels on business..he lightly fogs the motor to prevent corrosion. Maybe that's no big deal..i don't know,.,,

-He has a 1978 21' Wellcraft Nova with a 350 chevy (260HP)..it's 24 yrs old..no hour meter...if he had to guess he puts 100hrs / season..he is on it constantly..tons of trolling and idling the engine never failed him...that's 2400 hrs with oil and plugs Ignition coil/ points...that's it; passes compression tests on all 8 cyl. No oil usage.

He started using "Parasynthetic" Amsoil begining in 1979 in the boat when it came out as he used it in his plane too and turbine jet engines were using synthetics back then, but a turbine has a valve to prevent "humidified air in" so no corrosion because it's sealed...but combustion engines accumulate condensation and the early synthetics did not have great abilities to combat corrosion until the last 10 yrs or so..once a season changed with a good oil filter and has used some brand of synthetic oil since..sometimes Amsoil and sometimes Mobil 1...his secret he believes to great life is he drilled a small pilot hole in the Zenith flame restricter in the middle above the carb and always lightly foggs the engine before shutdown and much more for winter lay-up when in Michigan.

...he likes the new oil pressure systems that pre-lubricate a lot and would have one put on any engine he bought...but imagine the ingenuity of doing that light fogging through a tiny pilot hole in the flame restricter..it was like prelubricating as the fog is penetrating and not only prevents corrosion but also piston scuffing from non-lubrication next start up when most wear and tear can occur as you crank and crank....

..by the way...when Synthetics in the '70s did not have anti-corrosion additives... they found Cessna's which have a high positioned cam-shaft... showed excessive corrosion back then if you used synthetics..but not anymore with advanced technology. Newer synthetics bond more tenaciously and that dosen't happen anymore..

....so the point is you don't have to be concerned as to synthetics having a disadvantage to conventional oils in handling moisture/corrosion issues...

...and I am not as fussy as he is but a shot of fog before storage even if the engine sits a week or two is interesting.. if convenient can go a long way in further corrosion control..

also I checked on the price of going to Epoxy from vinyl ester resin and whereas as some manufacturers can do it it is on a custom made boat priced to your specs... expect paying double...my friend says it's worth it in weight reduction and added strength compared to a conventional "light lay up" which might not be as strong...his take is do it if money dosen't matter...hey if you pay 40 thousand to rebulid blower engines once or twice a season...and the gas that powers the set-up...epoxy is a no brainer..

now I am not recommending anything or suggesting anything...just an interesting story.

MitchStellin

I always fog at lay up and would imagine fogging after every run would be great for start up. It makes me sick to let the boat sit for a week and then start it up. I can feel the pain the engine is going thru. That is by far the most inexpensive way to do this but I would opt for the Pre Luber system, that is the cats a$$ and the single best thing you could do for these engines. You will pay for these systems but you will also have them paid thru fewer oil changes due to no dry start, cheaper and easier oil changes because you flip a switch and the system pumps out the oil...every drop, in about a minute. They also increase capacity to help in fewer oil changes and better coverage. I plan on buying them for the next boat I get some day, the truck is run often so there is no need there.

LPA2106

I didn't realize the long standing history of this Brand..

http://www.syntheticlubes.com/history.html

...found this interestingabout product made back in the 70's:

Resists Oxidation and Thermal Breakdown
AMSOIL Synthetic Blend 10W-40 resists oil breakdown from heat, blow-by chemicals and oxygen up to ten times longer than do conventional oils. AMSOIL Synthetic Blend 10W-40inhibits the formation of varnish deposits and sludge. It doesn't thicken like conventional oils, but continues to cool and lubricate for peak engine performance and improved fuel economy. In addition, the advanced heat transfer capabilities and high lubricity of AMSOIL Synthetic Blend 10W-40 reduce operating temperatures of engines, transmissions and gear boxes, so they run cooler, cleaner and longer.

well that's not the one I was looking at ....but all the info is at the above site if interested...a synopsis of the development of synthetic oil by this company..

Mr. Demeanor

I have a close friend with a 1993 Ford Escort pushing 300Kmiles. Never been touched. Original starter, fuel pump, everything but battery, tires, belts, etc. Changes oil every 3000 with the cheapest he can find so whp knows???