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DAMN! mcollinstn all ways a ball buster! :D :D
Rag's |
GRP-you have mail.
Mark, I'll contact you based off our conversations. |
Hey, Rags, I wore my "Size Matters" Tee Shirt last night. It has a bottle of something I've never heard of on it.
We went to watch some jazz band at a local bar, and they didn't have any of it there. What is that stuff? |
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Originally posted by mcollinstn Guys, you need to remember that stainless is a piss-poor conductor of heat. The aluminum cap will pull significantly more heat out of the drive than a stainless cap will. If rigidity is what you're after, there are several aluminum alloys that are pretty stiff. Good ole 6061-T6 is dang hard to beat when you are looking at the whole picture. Billet 6061 is tons stronger than the cast stock caps, and in my opinion, is strong enough (not the stockers, but the billet ones). Plus you retain the heat properties of aluminum. I just don't see real benefit from using stainless. My .02 I was thinking the same thing, stainless may cause excess heat buildup in the drive and add more weight to the boat:) If you did need something reverse engineered I could do it but in this case you'll probably be better off just buying it from getreal. A few years ago we reverse engineered a snowmobile crank case for a guy that does grass drags all year long. He wanted to use a standard crank and jugs but we added a forth cylinder and changed the intakes to give it more air then we machined it from billet. |
What I was thinking was that if a new top cap was cut, then it could serve as a wing plate for the steering rams.
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"Best" place for steering rams to connect is on the same centerline as the driveshaft. Above or below that gets into geometry changes as you trim up and down, but it's not a big deal and people mount them all over the place anyhow.
BMax does the steering boss thing right. Find a picture of one of them. |
That is one of the things that is really complicating this steering install-the fact that I'm insisting on the correct geometry. It's really easy to screw this up. I've seen the wing plates bent up like a pretzel from messed up geometry. I'm not gonna go there.
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I heard Billet Marine was looking at making a SS cap. Their aluminum water cooled cap is a nice piece.
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Cord,
Max Machine Worx makes a nice cap, but not cheap @ $400. I'm replacing my Billet Marine caps with them soon. Let me know if you're interested in the Billet Marine caps. They would need new bearings/races. Chris |
As mcollinstn said...........
Stainless suck's for disapating heat.
For the about the same money your better off using Titanium. I don't know why your looking to use stainless it heat's up very Quickly but take's forever to cool down. Also can Warp easily if it get's to hot. Grow's allot with heat which may not be good with that fitted bearing. Only thing that seems to be in your favor is the internal water cooling. Titanium is alot like aluminum, we use Titanium at work allot because you can cycle the temps up and down very quickly. Nice and light, machines better than stainless, very strong, and you can polish it to a mirror finish also. Good Luck Cougarman |
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