Cord

iTrader: (2)

Now, wouldn't that just be trick. Polished titanium. That even sounds cool.

cougarman

Machine's really nice to, especially if your using
coolant while cutting it.

Stainless is a beast it's doable, but even with
coolant it's hard on everthing. Hard on cutter's,
your grinding disc, etc.

It's a very tough material, but yet very soft.
You need to really know your Stainless grades
so you can buy the right material for your
application. As with any metal !


Cougarman

mcollinstn

**It's a very tough material, but yet very soft. **

"Soft" is not the right word. Gummy, Stringy, those are better descriptors.

And if the hone on your cutting edge isn't prepped properly, and you aren't using the right coolant, and are using too fast of a spindle speed or too slow of a feedrate, you will end up throwing more tools at it than you'd imagine. Not too difficult, though, if you got a handle on the above variables.

Still don't think it compares favorably with aluminum.

getreal

You guys crack me up. Machining stainless is no different than any other metal, as long as you use the right tooling, coolant, speeds and feeds. I grew up machining before CNC’s and can still remember grinding my own tool bits. With today’s equipment, and a little knowledge, it’s not that difficult. (75% of what I do is stainless).
I checked on the cost of titanium, "just" the material for "one" bravo cap is $840.00. I am machining a production run of aluminum caps this week. Anybody who wants to give a deposit for some out of titanium I’ll have them done in about 4 weeks. I'm going to make a set for myself, maybe even a set of trim tabs to go along. I'll post some pics. soon.

rbtnt

RedDog382, Why are you replacing your Billet Marine caps?

mcollinstn

** Machining stainless is no different than any other metal, as long as you use the right tooling, coolant, speeds and feeds. **

Uhh, isn't that the case with ANY material?
For the "apprentice class" machinist though (including weekend machinists), stainless is a bit confusing. While you know and I know that you can hand grind just about any drill to perform satisfactorily with the "right" feeds and speeds, I've seen a LOT of guys (in my shop and in other shops) weld a lot of drill bits to stainless bar stock. I can't imagine that you haven't seen it also.

For the purposes of this thread, though, it may be a little nuts to harp on the different machinability issues of stainless versus other metals since nobody is acting like they are wanting to hacksaw a pair of caps out themselves.

Looking forward to your pix.

RedDog382

rbtnt,

Just discovered an impending massive melt-down in one of my drives. The boat was purchased without power, previously rigged with 950 H.P. motors, XR uppers (the fourth set of drives in 75 hours), and standard Bravo lowers. Lube was almost black, burnt, full of metal shavings. Vertical and prop shafts were twisted. There is some checking on the race of the top cap.

I am upgrading the entire drive with Max Machine Worx, including their power tower in the upper, XR lower with torsional alloy shafts, and top cap made of 6061-T6 mentioned by mcollinstn earlier. My drive showers are rigged to the Latham steering plates, so the water cooled passages on the Billet Marine cap are not being used.

I think the Billet Marine caps are a major improvement over stock, but I believe the Max caps are stronger and better.

I don't know what they sell for new, but I would make someone a good deal on them if interested.

Chris

mcollinstn

I may be interested in the pair depending on the definition of "good deal".

mc