Who can re-size prop shaft splines?
03-10-2005, 05:15 PM
#1
Charter Member #40
Charter MemberThread Starter
Who can re-size prop shaft splines?
Merc used to open up the SSM prop shaft spline size from 1 3/8 -19T to 1 3/4-26T. They won't do it anymore. Does anyone know of any prop shops that will?
03-10-2005, 07:07 PM
#2
Platinum Member
Platinum Member
Re: Who can re-size prop shaft splines?
Whatcha need?
Need props opened to fit big shafts?
or
You need shaft sleeves made to fit larger prop hubs?
which is it?
Need props opened to fit big shafts?
or
You need shaft sleeves made to fit larger prop hubs?
which is it?
03-10-2005, 09:15 PM
#3
Charter Member #40
Charter MemberThread Starter
Re: Who can re-size prop shaft splines?
I have props for a small shaft (#IV drive) I would like to open up to accept the large shaft (#V drive).
03-10-2005, 09:15 PM
#4
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Re: Who can re-size prop shaft splines?
www.proroc.com has a kit to put a #6 shaft into a bravo drive.
Call and tell em you want the BIG SHAFT!!!!!!
Call and tell em you want the BIG SHAFT!!!!!!
Last edited by Ron P; 03-10-2005 at 09:17 PM.
03-11-2005, 06:08 AM
#7
Charter Member #40
Charter MemberThread Starter
Re: Who can re-size prop shaft splines?
According to Merc they have a broaching maching that has a bar 30+" long that has cutter teeth and is pressed through the bore. I do not believe there are any inserts in the prop.
03-11-2005, 07:52 AM
#8
Platinum Member
Platinum Member
Re: Who can re-size prop shaft splines?
mm kay.
What keeps the prop from moving forwards on the propshaft? Once the bore is splined, is the front side back-bored allowing the splines to act as a "stop" also? Just trying to picture it in my head.
I see no reason why I can't wire EDM the splines into your props and then back bore it (or back bore it first, depending on what will still allow high pressure flush on the edm).
Not exactly a cheap procedure. Without seeing it, I'm guessing $200 per. And that assumes the props will be easy to fixture upside down to back bore the larger ID. Props can be notoriously difficult to hold in a manner that allows you good access to the bore (normally, you hold them BY the bore..._)
The broach method would certainly be cheaper, but you gotta have the broach first (a fairly expensive piece).
What keeps the prop from moving forwards on the propshaft? Once the bore is splined, is the front side back-bored allowing the splines to act as a "stop" also? Just trying to picture it in my head.
I see no reason why I can't wire EDM the splines into your props and then back bore it (or back bore it first, depending on what will still allow high pressure flush on the edm).
Not exactly a cheap procedure. Without seeing it, I'm guessing $200 per. And that assumes the props will be easy to fixture upside down to back bore the larger ID. Props can be notoriously difficult to hold in a manner that allows you good access to the bore (normally, you hold them BY the bore..._)
The broach method would certainly be cheaper, but you gotta have the broach first (a fairly expensive piece).
03-11-2005, 09:11 AM
#9
Charter Member #40
Charter MemberThread Starter
Re: Who can re-size prop shaft splines?
The #4 prop is tapered at the leading bore. The #5 shaft doesn't appear to have any taper up by the seal. The #5 shaft is splined on the rear portion of the shaft vs the #4 which has a splinebasically the length of the hub. I need to get my hands on a wheel for a #5 to see what they have done different. Maybe not as easy as originall thought. 
Thanks, Bob
Thanks, Bob
Last edited by bob; 03-11-2005 at 07:54 PM.
03-12-2005, 06:51 PM
#10
Charter Member #40
Charter MemberThread Starter
Re: Who can re-size prop shaft splines?
Mcollinstn/
Here are a couple pics of the #5 shaft. Prop is kept from moving forward by the step by the .070" step at the front side of the spline and the .680" at the end leading to the 1.00" dia with thread. Sound feasible? Thanks, Bob
Here are a couple pics of the #5 shaft. Prop is kept from moving forward by the step by the .070" step at the front side of the spline and the .680" at the end leading to the 1.00" dia with thread. Sound feasible? Thanks, Bob
