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Konrad Conversion
My TRS's have been good old girls but they are just that, old girls. Parts are getting harder to find and they're old school technology. After adding up the real costs of doing a Bravo conversion reality set in that it was a no go. There is little sense in downgrading to Bravo unreliability with a $30K+ price tag. Yes $30K!!!! Add it up anyway you want but unless you're doing the majority of the work yourself it will be that much.
So what to do.... Konrads! |
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The way it all worked out is this. Near the end of last season, late October, I lunched a motor. It was no big surprise, they where built on the cheap and I was happy they lasted as long as they did. So with the motors out and the winter in front of me I figured it was a good time to address my drive issues.
I started by removing the gimbals and inner transom plates. This is inside with one of the |
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I should start with the whole kit from Konrad. These guys are first class! This is the way things should be done. The drives came complete with everything you need down to drive oil to top off the reservoir!
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Some more.
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Again
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I spent quite a bit of time mocking things up and checking for fit and clearance before I started the install. Turns out this was largely unnecessary as Konrad engineered these things to fit without the need for the grinder.
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some more
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Don't worry, I just stuck that cleaver on for fun....
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Thanks Fred!!! It's getting there. At least I'm on the re-assembly end of this project and I feel like I've got some direction. You GOTTA start with a clean bilge. Nothing worse than kneeling in filth.....
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So I had a million ??? for Konrad after this moc-up session. Fred and the rest of the crew have been great to work with! Can't say enough about how knowledgable and helpfull they have been. Along with Brian Bunch (P4-33 on the board). And Fred (The Old Guy... ooops I mean Too Old) who helped push me into the Konrads in the first place.
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Some of my ??? where regarding the fit of the TRS inner transome plate to the Konrad gimbal. I opted to not machine the exhaust port on the transom assembly as I have no silent choice. The concern I had was if the port on the TRS unit would bind against the Gimbal housing and prevent a good seal on the transom. I checked and measure but found that I could get the gap down to 2". The transom is 2.25" thick! No problem... But I still checked.
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Fred Kiekhafer - Are you reading this?.....
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Some more of the exhaust port.
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So you may have noticed the wires back in post 12. Those are for the trim, which I'm not using because I have mechanical indicators. If you ARE using these then you need to either figure out how to get the out of your exhaust port or make sure to order your drives with the wires routed elsewhere. If you have the silent choice Konrad will have these come through in a different spot but you MUST tell them.
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OK so on to mounting these suckers! I greased the seal just like you're supposed to and then mounted the housing up. A dead-blow works well for getting it all the way up. If you don't knock it into place you'll have to pull it in with the studs. I wouldn't suggest doing that way as you could damage a stud or the casting if it binds.
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I did take the oppertunity to buff out my transom. Don't pass this up, specially if you have an old red gel-coat boat like mine!!!
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ok.... I'm off to eat my steak before my Beagle gets it!
More later. |
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You thought I was kidding?
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and she goes in for the kill..........
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Ok a few more from the inside then I'm off to bed.
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Make sure to keep the wires and hydraulic lines clear and free when mating the assembly up. I stuffed those trim wires from post 12 inside the exhaust port. As you can see you need to carfully route the hydraulic lines. I forgot to mention earlier but I had to rotate and bend the lines on the inside of the manifold to make them clear the exhaust port.
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I took a slip of paper and folded it to check that the exhaust flange and gimbal housing didn't have an interference problem. I checked this repeatadle while I torqued the nuts down. I didn't want anything to bind, bend or crack. That, would suck!
It's hard to see in this pic, sorry. I'll try and get some better ones to post up. |
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Keep em coming looking good.
Mark |
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Lofty looks great, i sure wish i was doing konrads, but my trs's will have to do for now . that steak did look good
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The steak was tasty!
redfountain, you can add the Konrads on anytime. Let me know when you're ready and I'll give you a great deal on a set. I'm documenting this whole re-rig so I should be able to answere any install ??? anyone has. |
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What happen did you take a day off? :D
Mark |
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Yikes! You got me :D
I'll post some more when I get in tonight. |
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Originally Posted by Lofty
Yikes! You got me :D
I'll post some more when I get in tonight. Mark |
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Bro!!! You are a BALL BUSTER!!! Ok. I'm on hold for my new steering system from Warlock Performance Marine. We're doing a full hydraulic helm with two pumps. Warlock is the best at making up these systems but you need to measure everything! They build all the lines to order and offer the best system overall. I should have most of the system by Monday so I can't do much until then.
Just like Konrad, Warlock engineers everything to fit the first time with no dicking around. I'll give you the full run down with that system also. Just wait till you see the motors I'm planting in this beach!!! :evilb: |
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Thanks for this posting--I'm doing the Konrad conversion next winter. You should make a deal with Konrad so they provide all your documentation with enw drives. I'd pay for it if I could all that with new drives.
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Poorsche,
Konrad does provide excellent documentation with the drives. I just wanted to chronicle the project on this forum. I want everyone to see how easy and painless this conversion is. There are a few little things to look out for that can't be covered in an installation manual because every application is slightly different. |
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