obads 31

I've been told that older motor's seals and gasket are not designed for the additives in todays synthetics .What are the thoughts on this. Could also apply to tow trucks too. Thanks obads31

articfriends

iTrader: (1)

Yes and no,the materials-cork,viton,ruber,duraprene,garlock etc haven't really changed since we quit putting rope crank seals in motors in the 60's,BUT,i have seen many problems guys have had when converting a high hour motor or one thats been together for 10 or 20 years to some of the real slippery synthetics. I sell a synthetic called sentinel oil,its main claim to fame is it has molybendmium disulfide indefinately suspended in it,its real slippery,i have seen a 300 hp 350 chevy pick up 15 hp on the dyno with it,great stuff,i love it. We tried putting it in a 15 year old motor that had some real small leaks,within 500 miles the leaks had doubled/tripled. A buddy of mine converted a 1985 chevy 6.2 w/150k to amsoil 15/w40 in 1998,the rear main seal started spinning with the crank and flinging oil out within 1000 miles. I think a old tired seal thats 1/2 sealed from dirt and rust and barely sealing can swell up,push out or loosen up. Ive also seen vehicles(with hi miles) that never really burned much oil burn alot more after converting to synthetic. The company that makes the oil i sell says if it happens to change the filter if oil consumption goes up but it didn't help. So,in my opinion and experience,i would reccommend against putting sythetic in something thats old/tired,Smitty

Poorsche

A thought might be to use the dino/synthetic blend like Castrol makes.

I've got 1996 EFI454's in moat and I switched from dino to the the semi synthetic with no problems. Oils seems to hold up better than straight dino in the boat with infrequent (weekly) use and hard duty cycles.