Hatch quick disconnect
 

I have an Acculift electric engine hatch actuator in place that's bolted on both ends. I have seen "quick disconnects" for these systems which are nothing more than a $20 pin that replaces one of the bolts. So, if the actuator dies, then you somehow just pull the pin and can now get access to your engine bay and the actuator motor.

Anyone know of a more elegant/better/cheaper way to handle the dreaded dead hatch actuator?

Re: Hatch quick disconnect
 

A 4 dollar clevis pin, spring and C-clip from the HW store. Attach a cable to it and route it out the vent or anywhere else you can get a straight pull at it.

Re: Hatch quick disconnect
 

On my Super Hawaii the sunpad is velcroed down and there is a 5" screwin plastic cap near the actuator pin. I simply have to lift the pad, unscrew the cap reach inside to pull the pin. There is also a 3'8" hole drilled at the top of the hatch (coveredby the sunpad) so I can stick a scew driver in,wedge it sideways and use as a handle to lift the hatch.

That is really my second option. 1st is the battery charger that can be activated from the cabin, not the engine room.

Re: Hatch quick disconnect
 

You can buy a jumper post kit that mounts wherever you want, ussually under the back seat. They are basicly remote battery terminals so that in the event of a dead battery you can jump it without openeing the hatch. You can also backfeed the sytem through the switch with a spare battery and some small jumoer wires, if you use like 16 guage wires it will open slowly but it will open.

Re: Hatch quick disconnect
 

Been through this the HARD way before.

The electrical spade connectors for my hatch ram separated on a poker run. I picked up some SS parts from Lowes/Home Depot. I have piece of wire tied to the clip, and held in place by a light weight zip-tie at the center/back of my engine hatch above the transom. My emergency proceedure means I have to pull the pin out of one of the engine hatch hinges above the transom, slightly lifting the engine hatch to get my fingers in there, and yanking that wire from its tie wrap. The wire has a loop to it, so the first yank directly backwards pulls out the pin. Then, I swing the wire 90* to the port and pull directly out the side of the boat, and remove the pin that holds the ram to the hatch. It works perfectly. Total investment was less than $10. I will take some pics when I get a chance.

Re: Hatch quick disconnect
 

Sydwayz: Is that hinge pin outside the boat?

BadDog: Where does the C-clip go on the clevis pin? On the end? Then what do you tie to, the clip? So then the spring pushes out the clevis pin?

Re: Hatch quick disconnect
 

The Clevis pin has a small grab handle on it. Use a lead cable clamp to loop it through the handle so the cable is firmly attached to the Clevis pin handle. Insert Clevis in place of bolt, slide spring on and C clip to keep it from vibrating out, not likely with the weight of the hatch. The correct size c clip will slide on and spread slightly acting as the nut would on a bolt. The spring is just to keep the Clevis pin from sliding around. You don't really need it.

Most Clevis pins are going to be too long so just cut it down and round the end slightly on a grinder to make c clip easy to start. My Clevis pins is dead in line with side vent so the other end of the cable is neatly tucked into the vent. It only takes four screws to remove the vent and a straight pull on the cable to free the pin from the hatch ram.

Re: Hatch quick disconnect
 

I need a new hatch lifter--check out this rig. I think sombody did it right--especially the emergency access they've set up.

http://www.apimarine.com/

Scroll down left mensu to "Hydro-Hatch Lift System Self Contained & Component Design"

Re: Hatch quick disconnect
 

Ditto. It is what I did.

Re: Hatch quick disconnect
 

My hatch has two loops of 1" wide nylon strap that tuck under the pads makes it easy pull the pin and grab the loops.