US1 Fountain

iTrader: (1)

What is used for sealant on the fittings, teflon tape?

Also how tight? Working on a boat were the 4) 90's on the rams are not tight until 1/4 past the needed position. Tried swapping the fittings around for different alignment, but still no go. Going that extra 3/4 turn is really chancing a broken or siezed thread.
What's the scoop?
Thanks

Falcon

Clean all oil from threads, squeaky clean. I use a electrical contact cleaner spray to get the last trace of oil off then blow off with air and let dry for a few minutes. Use loctite hydraulic sealant, 569 I think.

kennyo

I had to cut a tap off and thread the hole a little deeper to get another turn on the fitting. I also tried everything to seal it and the only thing that worked on mine was blue loctite. Clean the **** out of it and good luck.

Dave M

Locktite 545 is made for hydraulic fittings. I did have one fitting that did not want to seal. I used teflon tape and that worked.

The lines coming inside my boat are not lined up the way I would like but I was told that it was something I would have to live with. I wanted both fittings to be pointing downward.

Rippem

I've got a fitting issue myself.

The aft fitting (on my port steering ram) is 70* past where I'd like it to be tight. It's pointing towards the starboard prop. Problem is, the hose is pulling back on it towards the transom...so it's always just a little loose and seeping.

Do I dare to try and get 240*-270* (~3/4 turn) more into the ram?
Or, do I pull it and wrap it in teflon tape to try and make it tight and seal 60*-90* (~1/4 turn) earlier?

If I plug the hose while I mess with the fitting, how much fluid will I lose? Perhaps only enough to need a top off, and it will bleed itself of air if I run it lock to lock when I fire up for the season?

How would you approach this?

Also, Who makes nice braided hoses?

kennyo

I had all of the above problems. Measure how deep you can screw into your cylinder ( around a 1/4" probably) A regular tap won't cut the taper enough to get more than maybe two turns on your fitting. You will have to cut about a 1/2" off the tap to get your threads enlarged enough to get another turn on your fitting. It's trial and error to get it right where you want it.Call me if you didn't understand and i'll be glad to explain. 1-604-1666

US1 Fountain

iTrader: (1)

Thanks for the replies.

Thought about tapping deeper, but didn't want to get chips in the rams. Couldn't find the loctite at the auto parts places, just thread locker, so ended up using pipe tape.

Rippem

thanks. KO.

what size pipe thread...3/8? Do you still have that cut tap?

Rippem

US1 did the tape not only seal, but tighten it up earlier? If so how much of a turn earlier? I would only really consider the tape if going the "sealer" route to reposition mine 'cause it takes up more space than liquid sealer.

US1 Fountain

iTrader: (1)

He means just take a pipe tap and grind the bottom shorter so that it will not bottom out before tapping to the depth.
Or you can buy a 'short' NPT tap