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Re: Oil cooler to filter instead of Filter to oil cooler?
It is a GEN V. But the cooler had plenty of metalic oil coming out of it when I drained it. I have a new cooler coming. After I read BIGJIM luck, I don't want to take a chance. Do you think I would do any harm running with out the cooler. Im not talking WOT, but just 20 min. cruising. Just to see how new motor is running?
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Re: Oil cooler to filter instead of Filter to oil cooler?
Originally Posted by vandeano
It is a GEN V. But the cooler had plenty of metalic oil coming out of it when I drained it. I have a new cooler coming. After I read BIGJIM luck, I don't want to take a chance. Do you think I would do any harm running with out the cooler. Im not talking WOT, but just 20 min. cruising. Just to see how new motor is running?
I dont see the harm IF you have an oil temp guage. Otherwise why risk it. I would still take off your oil lines and filter pad adapter, filter boss and flush them out before you get started. |
Re: Oil cooler to filter instead of Filter to oil cooler?
I was at teague marine, and like you said, they build all the HP motors with cooler before filter. I will take your advise and go that route.
I very much appreciate your guys comments :drink: |
Re: Oil cooler to filter instead of Filter to oil cooler?
Originally Posted by vandeano
I was at teague marine, and like you said, they build all the HP motors with cooler before filter. I will take your advise and go that route.
I very much appreciate your guys comments :drink: |
Re: Oil cooler to filter instead of Filter to oil cooler?
Originally Posted by Reed Jensen
I would suggest filter BEFORE the cooler. Oil is filtered easier when it is hot and thin... not thick and cold. All of the oil isn't filtered at once anyway. If you are running a spin-on type filter... they all incorporate a bypass valve or a belleville spring under the filter element so that oil can bypass the filter when it can't flow through the matrix. If you take apart a Fram hp-6... or even look down the large center hole... you can see the oil bypass valve. The valve looks like a brown button at the bottom.This valve allows the oil to bypass the filter matrix when it can't pass through it. Under high flow (high rpm) situations... the oil can't all push through the filter. It's better to have adequate unfiltered oil to the bearings than not enough filtered oil.
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Re: Oil cooler to filter instead of Filter to oil cooler?
I wouldn't recomend filtering after the cooler because of Oil Pressure issues, but since you are inclined to do it anyway, or you want an answer to your question, what comes to my mind is a block off plate at the pad, (about $35 from moroso, summitracing.com) and an remote filter mounted wherever you want.
I have one in my racecar, I'm pumping oil through all kinds of lines w a dry sump pump. The remote mounting plates are also from moroso, about $55 in cast metal. The super nice filters (and super nice Billet remote mount plates, $100) are from Cantonracingproducts.com. They filter 8 microns, the size of a red blood cell with much better flow then any fram or paper filter. the case is billet and the internal filters are changeable and have much longer life then paper. At least the Canton filter won't kill your pressure and flow like paper. Flame away Evan |
Re: Oil cooler to filter instead of Filter to oil cooler?
I will go ahead and leave it like it was. Since the filter did'nt stop the cooler from contamination anyway. Thanks again for the input.
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Re: Oil cooler to filter instead of Filter to oil cooler?
No Way.
No that you worked us for all that info you MUST change it |
Re: Oil cooler to filter instead of Filter to oil cooler?
I have a remote mount Dan Olson cooler and filter combo and I believe it runs thru the cooler then the filter and back in to the engine.
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Re: Oil cooler to filter instead of Filter to oil cooler?
I respect everyones opinions stated here. Still, if you grenade a motor, most likely the filter will stop up and then bypass allowiing metal into the cooler, even with careful flushing the cooler can not be considered clean. Running the filter after the cooler with a rebuilt motor and the origional cooler seems like a prudent step. We have done this in many race cars over the years. It's a given that oil filters will bypass some oil if you rev a cold motor hard.
That is why we allways warm our motors as much as possible before running them hard. I feel like you are improving your odds this way if you don't buy a new cooler with your rebuilt motors. There have been several threads here where rebuilt motors have had bearing failures soon after rebuild. You have to wonder. |
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