Originally Posted by Rookie (Post 3097961)

It is not on the block, it is on the Merc remote filter pad.

Originally Posted by articfriends (Post 2879254)

After market blocks do not have a bypass hole/spring at filter adapter area. It is a MUST to run a high flowing filter preferably with a built in bypass relief valve,large enough lines,fittings etc other wise you can shear off distributer pin,wear cam gear out fast or at a minimum the pump bypass relief will open too much causing your oil to become aereated,Smitty

Originally Posted by articfriends (Post 1375188)

I'm posting this thread to help out some of you guys who are having serious oil pressure problems. I see guys on this bd alot asking questions about oil pressure issues,oil temp issues etc,i'm going to show some potential problems that might be causing alot of your grief.I am not a expert by any means BUT I have had the same problems and questions when i started modifying my original gen 6 502 5 years ago. Your oil systems need to be "optimized" to make your motors live,it will cost you a few dollars BUT do you really want to be rebuilding your motor twice or missing valuable boating time? A stock 502 or 454 has a tiny oil cooler and tiny fittings thru out the stock oil system.When your motor is still original everything works ok because a stock motor has very tight rod and main clearences (under .002) and has a std volume oil pump. The average guy builds up his motor,rebuilds a blown up motor or finds another motor and builds it up,typically you end up with rod and main clearences around .0025-.003. Sure,if you can find a super high quality machine shop that can hold tolerances perfect you could run things tighter but typically those clearences are what you end up with. The first thing you have to do is run a high volume oil pump( yes,everyone knows this) but heres where the problems start-if your running a gen 5 or 6 block and it started life as a crate engine,it has 11lb bypass relief valves. If your motor has unknown origin,who knows what it could have. Buy a new 30lb bypass relief valve for the outside(the one near edge of block casting for filter adapter) or plug it off,they are available at your local chevy dealer part #25013759,they are under 5$. The middle valve directs oil to the cooler fittings on side of the block that are not used in boats,leave it out completely. These valves open from a pressure differential,if your high volume pump puts out enough gallons per minute of oil to pump lets say 8 gpm and create 75 psi and your stock system will only flow 6gpm at 55psi then your block bypass will open and your oil will not go to your cooler and filter. Your motor will then get unfiltered hot oil. The new 30 psi valve will help to prevent this from happening.

Originally Posted by 90mphRAGE (Post 3147046)

Does the HP motor have this 11lb or 30lb relief?

Originally Posted by blownboat (Post 3124941)

Are you positive that dart blocks do not have the bypass valve on the filter pad???

Originally Posted by Griswald (Post 3153456)

the remote filter adapter is a good choice for your temp sender