|
Great old thread... I read though it a years ago, but slept a few times since so forgive me of any oversight..
I'm considering using the Earl's "sandwich" thermostat & they make a 502, 503, & 504 in the sandwich style thermo,, I know the differance in the 02 & os is the 02 has 3/4" threads for the filter & the 03 having 13/16 but does anybody know what the differance is in the 504 part # ?? Also is anybody using these & whats your tried & tested real world experiance with them ?? I really like the fact that they simplify the amount of oil lines that have to be ran since they are block mounted & would have no more lines than a regular spin on adaptor going to the cooler.. Lastly, they say they start opening at 160 & fully open at 180 again what kind of real world oil temps are you guys seeing out of them.. (yes I know there are many variables but trying to get an idea.) Thanks, Scott |
I know a couple of people that use the sandwich style with no problems. One uses the Jeggs brand for $32.99
http://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS/555/51711...ductId=1032937 |
Originally Posted by Rookie
(Post 3097267)
I know a couple of people that use the sandwich style with no problems. One uses the Jeggs brand for $32.99
http://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS/555/51711...ductId=1032937 Also, Any idea what kind of real world temps they are seeing ?? |
The different part numbers are probably for Mark IV and Gen V & VI. The pads are different.
|
Just got off the phone with tech at Earl's (holley) & he couldn't really tell me much & pretty much read off what I knew already..:rolleyes:
He said the only differance he knew in the 503 & 504 is the 504 comes with the 7/8" spacer.. I attached a pic below.. If I was guessing I would say that the spacer makes it work with a 4,5 or gen 6 ? I'm running an older style mark 4.. ((ONCE AGAIN I realize I can't pos pics here due to my membership running up !!! I'm gonna have to penny up & pay because between that & looking at the skinny redneck in my avatar I gots to be doing something !!)) Anyways maybe I will try to post a link.. |
|
Originally Posted by littledcsrodshop
(Post 3097311)
I gotta say when I seen the price you posted I thought it was gonna be the non-thermo style.. haha.. I've looked at several others but never seen that one.. I obviously like the billet Earl's over the cast but man thats a good price.. I would opt for some AN's over the barbed ends but thats a nice price & something to consider.. Thanks..
Also, Any idea what kind of real world temps they are seeing ?? Also I think he mods them a little. Drills them bigger and adds the -AN fittings. I'm going to order some up and I have oil temp gages. So I will have some # in the future. |
Originally Posted by Rookie
(Post 3097868)
I do not know the temps he was running, but all of the condensation in his valve covers disappeared. I can never find those oil thermostats when I check Jegs website. I have to Yahoo - Jegs thermostat sandwich
Also I think he mods them a little. Drills them bigger and adds the -AN fittings. I'm going to order some up and I have oil temp gages. So I will have some # in the future. Rookie: Do you know if the dude running the jegs unit is running a 4,5 or 6 block ?? I have never had a gen 5 or 6 block only 4's so I really don't know how much differant they are on the filter pad.. If anybody can answer which of the earls part #'s will work with my Mark IV block that would be very helpfull !!! |
I just heard back from summit & they say that the Earl's part# 503 will work with a Mark IV block... Can Anybody verify this ??
((I hope I'm not de-railing a great thread by somewhat "thinking outloud" .. I just know there's some good info here & this may be helpfull to somebody else sometime down the road.. I know someboady else was asking about the Earl's sandwich thermo early in the thread & it never really got answered..)) |
Originally Posted by littledcsrodshop
(Post 3097891)
Rookie: Do you know if the dude running the jegs unit is running a 4,5 or 6 block ??
|
Originally Posted by Rookie
(Post 3097961)
It is not on the block, it is on the Merc remote filter pad.
Thanks for the clarity on that.. Like I said never had a gen 5 or 6 so thats my excuse..haha.. |
Are you positive that dart blocks do not have the bypass valve on the filter pad???
Originally Posted by articfriends
(Post 2879254)
After market blocks do not have a bypass hole/spring at filter adapter area. It is a MUST to run a high flowing filter preferably with a built in bypass relief valve,large enough lines,fittings etc other wise you can shear off distributer pin,wear cam gear out fast or at a minimum the pump bypass relief will open too much causing your oil to become aereated,Smitty
|
Originally Posted by articfriends
(Post 1375188)
I'm posting this thread to help out some of you guys who are having serious oil pressure problems. I see guys on this bd alot asking questions about oil pressure issues,oil temp issues etc,i'm going to show some potential problems that might be causing alot of your grief.I am not a expert by any means BUT I have had the same problems and questions when i started modifying my original gen 6 502 5 years ago. Your oil systems need to be "optimized" to make your motors live,it will cost you a few dollars BUT do you really want to be rebuilding your motor twice or missing valuable boating time? A stock 502 or 454 has a tiny oil cooler and tiny fittings thru out the stock oil system.When your motor is still original everything works ok because a stock motor has very tight rod and main clearences (under .002) and has a std volume oil pump. The average guy builds up his motor,rebuilds a blown up motor or finds another motor and builds it up,typically you end up with rod and main clearences around .0025-.003. Sure,if you can find a super high quality machine shop that can hold tolerances perfect you could run things tighter but typically those clearences are what you end up with. The first thing you have to do is run a high volume oil pump( yes,everyone knows this) but heres where the problems start-if your running a gen 5 or 6 block and it started life as a crate engine,it has 11lb bypass relief valves. If your motor has unknown origin,who knows what it could have. Buy a new 30lb bypass relief valve for the outside(the one near edge of block casting for filter adapter) or plug it off,they are available at your local chevy dealer part #25013759,they are under 5$. The middle valve directs oil to the cooler fittings on side of the block that are not used in boats,leave it out completely. These valves open from a pressure differential,if your high volume pump puts out enough gallons per minute of oil to pump lets say 8 gpm and create 75 psi and your stock system will only flow 6gpm at 55psi then your block bypass will open and your oil will not go to your cooler and filter. Your motor will then get unfiltered hot oil. The new 30 psi valve will help to prevent this from happening.
|
Originally Posted by 90mphRAGE
(Post 3147046)
Does the HP motor have this 11lb or 30lb relief?
|
Originally Posted by blownboat
(Post 3124941)
Are you positive that dart blocks do not have the bypass valve on the filter pad???
|
forgive my ignorance but are the 496 HO's any different than the 502's when it comes to all this?????
|
Bypass valve
So after reading through all the forums I need to make sure I understand this completly since my motor is fresh from builder. I am using a remote oil filer and I pulled the 2 bypass valves today and the one on the side says its a 35lb and the one in the middle under the oil filter nipple was a 45lb. So I should leave the center one out and use a 35lb on the side and thats it???? Motor has been out for almost a year now and still figureing out the wiring and hoses. The oil out should go to the remote filter then to the oil cooler? Is this correct?
|
Does anyone know where I can install a oil temp sender on a 500efi? I think my condensation is from cool oil. I noticed there's a 1/4" hex plug in the remote housing & in the block adapter. Could one of these be drilled & tapped or is there somewhere already prepped? There's already a wire in the harness (brown/white) to the gauges, but engine side is not hooked to anything, so I assume it's not a required part of the engine electronic system, or am I missing something?
|
the remote filter adapter is a good choice for your temp sender
|
Originally Posted by Griswald
(Post 3153456)
the remote filter adapter is a good choice for your temp sender
Gaffrig makes a 1/4" sender ..... depends on your gauge though ...... http://www.gaffrigperformance.com/Pr...SubCategory=18 |
So added the oil temp gauge & sender (spare port just in front of adapter on the block) & oil looks in line @ 160~180 degrees 40~45 psi. It takes some time warm up but stays consistent once there. My water temp is 100~110 & 20~ish psi. I'm running no thermostat (per Whipple direction). My thought is the water too cold causing condensation in the valve covers. Should I add some more breather or put a thermostat back in the water? breather on stb side now, pcv on port. I'm scared to add thermostat against Whipple direction, they say steam pockets form & poof goes the head gasket.
|
add a Oil Thermostat ... 212*
|
Originally Posted by offthefront
(Post 3156164)
add a Oil Thermostat ... 212*
|
I called Merc, they do not have another stat for the stock, so guess I'll be looking into aftermarket, I'd like to just find a pad adapter with one built in like the stock so I don't have to re-pipe everything.
|
Somone was looking for this so might as well bring it ttt
|
Originally Posted by articfriends
(Post 1378216)
Ive seen a zillion part #'s flying around for oil filters on this board,I stick with K&N 6002(its extra,extra long),has550psi burst strength,filters down to 10 microns,has anti-drainback valve,built in bypass valve (which with all the surface area should never open),flows 12-14gpm and if you were real anal you could safety wire it,it has provisions.If you don't have room the 3002 fits where any ac-35 style filter will,Smitty
|
After reading thru this thread, it has me wondering if I need to upgrade my current Mercruiser oil system...
http://www.mercruiserparts.com/Show_...And+Oil+Filter I'm getting close to reassembling my motor & with upgrades, I should be in the 600HP range. I will be running the 10778c pump. Will the existing cooler set-up work with this, or should I look to go aftermarket? The oil lines are 1/2", & I don't have any restricted fittings. Everything worked fine at the original HP...The temp seemed to be a bit high (240 during a long run), but I figured it was where I'm reading from (in the block). I had planned on welding a bung in the pan & reading from there... Very good information here...It definitely has me thinking... |
I'm right in the middle of setting my 253 up and going to redo the factory merc stuff..already have a eddie marine block adapter(canton they told me) so need cooler, filter, oil temp, and lines...damn had all this right on my 251 !!! + going to make sure the 30psi valve is in there...great info here !!!
|
Originally Posted by 90mphRAGE
(Post 3156858)
I believe the stock pad has a 165*. Is there a direct replacement for that?
|
the carb versions were 140, not sure on the EFI
|
Originally Posted by ezstriper
(Post 3350669)
the carb versions were 140, not sure on the EFI
|
no, coolant stat...was confused myself !
|
Excellent thread.
I'd like to throw a curve ball at it however :drink: My new motor started life as a Gen V HP500 (1996). I changed the bypass valve on the outside of the filter pad (on the block) to the 30#. There was no bypass in the center... so, done deal. Until I discovered when looking at my remote pad and noticed that it has a Bypass valve (on the outside part) as well. It appears to a 11#. Should I change that one to a 30# as well? Sorry if I missed it somewhere in the thread, but my eyes were starting to bleed after page 10... Dave |
on the oil filter mount ? I'm in the middle of setting mine up now as well..just picked up my 30 psi vakve yesterday...mine has 2 valves installed...guess will remove the center and just run the new 30 in the outside right ??
|
Originally Posted by ezstriper
(Post 3396196)
on the oil filter mount ? I'm in the middle of setting mine up now as well..just picked up my 30 psi vakve yesterday...mine has 2 valves installed...guess will remove the center and just run the new 30 in the outside right ??
|
Originally Posted by jeffswav
(Post 3396244)
Thats the way I did mine. Sounds like he was talking about the remote filter assembly. Mine did not have any valves on it.
http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/y...p/Motor146.jpg |
Never seen one like that before, that is most likely a safegaurd for a cloged oil filter. Not sure what to do there, somone will know what to do.
|
mines not like that either..I am changing to a aftermarket one with 1/2 NPT fittings bigger cooler lines etc...
|
I guess I'll just go ahead and put the 30# bypass in there and keep my fingers crossed :drink:
|
bump
|
| All times are GMT -5. The time now is 02:37 PM. |
Copyright © 2026 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.