Engine Flush
 

I just took my closed cooling system off of a 502mpi. It broke at the thermostat housing and started leaking everywhere. It wasn't a mercruiser part and the company that I purchased it from last year said that I'm on my own now. The big issue now is that I want to be able to flush my motor out after I run it but I don't know where the best place to install it is. I want to keep it simple so it can be done easily after each run. Any ideas? I also wanted to let you guys know that Brett at Bblades is great to deal with if you need a prop or even if you just have a few questions. He sent me a Bravo 1 to try and made it very easy to solve a prop issue I was having. Now my boat runs the way I wanted it to. Its nice to run into vendors like that. Have a great second half of the season. Hopefully we have a warm fall....

Re: Engine Flush
 

I have no idea.

I just wanted to say hi.

:D

Re: Engine Flush
 

IF you have sea-strainers, I'd put a ball valve on the inlet side and a "T" on the outlet side. One side of the "T" to feed the motor under normal running and the other with a hose attachment for flushing. Also put a ball valve on the flush side to shut it off.

Option two if you do not have strainers is to "T" in the inlet side before the pump, you will need a valve after the pickup to prevent water from going out the bottom.

Re: Engine Flush
 

I have the flush set up on my '97 top gun with out sea strainers. It is simply tee'd in just before the sea water pump. There is no valve to prevent (hose)water from running out the bottom(outdrive). When I hook up the hose and turn it on water does run out the outdrive but as soon as I start the engine the sea water pump simply pulls the hose water thru the engine. Use a quick disconnect garden hose fitting on the top end so you don't have to fool with threading the hose fittings each time. Also make sure you have an air tight cap or valve at the top when you are running on raw water.

Re: Engine Flush
 

Hey Fund Razor, how's it going? My boat hasn't broken quite enough this year so something was bound to happen..... I'll get set up today if I get away from work. I hate not being able to get the salt water out..... Thanks for the input. I don't have to go to a boat store for the "T" do I?

Re: Engine Flush
 

you can put a t fitting in the intake hose between the transom and the seawater pump or they make a t fitting that is also a one way valveif you prefer to use that the fitting needs to be 1 1/4 with 1/2 at the t

Re: Engine Flush
 

The "T" fitting everyone is talking about is a good way to go if you don't have anything right now. If you have a sea strainer with an extra hole not being used is even easier. I usually mount the hose connection inside the bilge area within easy reach and where it looks good. Sometimes you have to mount a nice piece of starboard and mount the hose connection in that. On the back side of the connector I use a check valve so if the cap isn't put back on or it comes off, you don't suck air in the incoming water line and either burn up the impeller or overheat an engine. Then run a good marine 5/8" or 3/4" water hose down to the "T" or strainer. Just remember that if you cut into the incoming water line you should double clamp the hose on both sides. Also try to double clamp the flush hose if the fitting is big enough. I also like the idea of the valve if you are flushing while floating in the water, but I like the idea of back flushing the strainer if you have one and/the outdrive. :D

Re: Engine Flush
 

What prop and speed did you end up with?

My Equalizer runs 73gps with a 24p B-1. I have seen 77 with a labbed prop but it got bent and was never the same after repair.