Removing floor
 

What is the best tool in your opinion for removing the fiberglass floor and inside transom. My 5" air cutting wheel is sure taking a long time to cut through. This is on a 1978 Formula.

Re: Removing floor
 

cut off wheels don't cut to well with anything but steel really, they just clog up and then burn their way thru. What I have found to work best if you have clearance for it is one of the dewalt cordless circ saws with the 5 inch blade if that won't fi the sawzall with a nice fine toth blade works too, after all chipping probably isn't that big of a deal if you are pulling the floor out yo have plenty of glass work to do around the area anyway.

Re: Removing floor
 

i have used a small air reciprocating saw with a sawzall blade cut down, then once the perimeter was cut proceeded to remove the layers with a 3' wide brick chisel.obviously being careful of course.

Re: Removing floor
 

This is what I did cut the blade down. (Jig saw blade)
Regulate the air pressure going to it.
Otherwise the vibration makes yor hand so itchy
you will wanna bite your hand :D

Re: Removing floor
 

anytime you guys do any fiberglass cutting work.....dust yourself with talcom powder before you start. It fills your pores so the fiberglass wont get in there and itch ya. And when you done take the COLDEST shower you can stand before going to hot....that will was off the fiberglass before you pores open up from the heat. :)

Re: Removing floor
 

But the 3 days of itching is all part of the fun. :D

Re: Removing floor
 

That's great info Wally. You can also get disposable zip up paper suits from Home Depot etc. that really help keep that stuff off you.

Re: Removing floor
 

Yeah, about the only exposed skin I have is around my respirator and gogles.

Thanks for the information. I have a small coordless circular saw, did not even think to use it.

Re: Removing floor
 

When I cut the deck of my boat to install a hatch I initially used a cordless jig saw. Took forever. After the 1st line I decided to try my cordless circular saw. Went thru like butter. I used the jig saw to clean up the corners and finish the cuts of the circular saw and saved lots of time and effort.

Re: Removing floor
 

This brings back memories. I restored an old 70's jet boat about 5 years ago and had to replace the floor. I used a 5" circular saw and a saws all in some areas. I got carried away with the circular saw and forgot to check the depth at one point of the adventure....Cut a 3 inch slot in the hull at about midships. Good think fiberglass is repairable!

Re: Removing floor
 

Here are a couple of shots before the removal. I will get some as I go along. I just started and weather and work are going to keep me off the project for about two weeks.

My plan is to replace the transom, stringers, and bulkheads. romove all the interior fiberglass and install new bulkhead and supports for the top deck. I have also filled in the portholes on the side and plan to fill the top deck hatches.

After that I will start on the instrument panel and build a race fairing since I do not have a windshield.

Re: Removing floor
 

To skin the inside of your transom, buy yourself a diamond wheel for a grinder or your air cut off tool. It will cut through the fiberglass skin like butter.

Re: Removing floor
 

Rotozips can also work well

Re: Removing floor
 

The sole of the boat is especially tough.

Audio, did you remove the sole when you replaced the floor in your 302? Just wondering how far up that drain tube goes?? I did not plan on replacing the sole just leaving it open for draining to the back of the boat.

Re: Removing floor
 

On mine that tube goes all the way up to the bow. Best I can tell it is a pvc tube that was cut in half and glassed over. I removed everything but that tube up to the forward bulkhead.

Jon

Re: Removing floor
 

PRATER:

Give us some details about your Formula project! What Formula are you working on? What are your plans for power?

MORE PICS ! MORE PICS !

We all love pics of projects!!

Re: Removing floor
 

Donnie,

The Formula is a 1979 255 Liberator. It was completely striped bare when I got her. the project is more of a see if I can do it on a cheap boat before I get to big money boats. Plans are to remove the fiberglass from the cabin and put in a couple of structural bulkheads to keep the bow deck from flexing. Replace floor, stringers, and transom. Fix all the dock rash and repaint. Blueprint the bottom. I will also remove the outdated dash and instal a fairing. I am taking my time and working when the weather cooperates. I dont have a large enough shop to go inside.

Power is still up in the air, but I plan to put two big blocks with the TRS drives back in. I now have most of the drives and gimbals and trannies. I also have a couple of big blocks that I plan to stroke to 496's.

So far I have about $300 in the fiberglass and cost of the boat, $550 on the complete big blocks, and $3000 on the TRS parts. Clear title on the boat also. I do the computer work for a local race shop so I get my parts at cost and general machine work is free if I wait until they have spare time to do what I need.

I watch the auctions for parts to save money, and can sometimes find a deal from OSO on the parts.

I am doing this project with only my spare cash so it will take a while to finish.

I have s Sea Ray cabin cruiser to hold me over on the water until this one is done...maybe 5 years from now...

Re: Removing floor
 

Why Not Just Build One Nice Big Block Two Seems Heavy For 25 Footer?

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Air Time,

I was challenged by some friends. It was an option for twins from the factory and I like the fact of having a motor to limp back on in case something goes wrong. Plus one large HP motor means going to different outdrives that I can not afford right now.

Re: Removing floor
 

Why not sell the TRS stuff and put bravos on?
Why drag around all that weight?
If you are'nt planning on big HP engines anyway?

If you bought two TRS drives, transom asemblies and transmissions, for $3000 you can make money selling them.
DS

Re: Removing floor
 

Here are a couple of the portholes being filed. I had some problems with air pockets so I put about 6 layers of light weight mat on one at a time until it cured. I used west epoxy on the mat and a roller to help with the bubles. One side I still have to sand back flush then fill with west epoxy/404 filler. The other side has been filled with the epoxy/404 mix and I need to sand off the blush and then finish filing any voids with epoxy/410.

I am not sure what the idea was but the previous owner sprayed the whole side of the boat with a light epoxy that bubbled on the yellow. The other side was the same way but has been sanded smooth. I still have to sand the starboard side and fill some areas that had gone through the gelcoat.

The bottom is just black spray paint. Pretty much rubbs off easily. I guess they planned to sand the bottom looking for hook or other irregularities in the hull. I decided to leave it when I do the same. I will just make a long straight sanding block and see where it takes off and where the black stays. That is much later on though.

Re: Removing floor
 

Zanie,

If the boat was a late 80's or newer I would go to bravos. On the 79 I will stick to the trs drives.

Re: Removing floor
 

Well, looks like I am down one TRS. the shop I purchased the complete gimbal and outdrive called and said that the building it was in collapsed and destryed the unit on its pallet. They sent me a refund. so back to the auctions for the second unit...