Outdrive stand and lift homemade no welding
07-10-2009, 03:56 PM
#73
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I would love too!!! However not my original idea nor design, even though I have made some changes 
My biggest issue with building and selling is the packaging of it! If I know a way to minimize packaging cost I would be all over this! Building it is the easy part, packaging and shipping seems like a major headache.
However I will say that the changes I made 'should' make it easier to package since most of it would lay somewhat flat
My biggest issue with building and selling is the packaging of it! If I know a way to minimize packaging cost I would be all over this! Building it is the easy part, packaging and shipping seems like a major headache.
However I will say that the changes I made 'should' make it easier to package since most of it would lay somewhat flat
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Last edited by MnFastBoat; 07-10-2009 at 03:58 PM.
11-05-2009, 08:38 AM
#75
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That would be easy and a great idea
Instead of the casters under the 2" tubing, weld an extension plate on TOP of the tube and then mount 4" pneumatic casters on that plate
Actually making it more stable at the same time
Instead of the casters under the 2" tubing, weld an extension plate on TOP of the tube and then mount 4" pneumatic casters on that plate
Actually making it more stable at the same time
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This Cat is trying to keep up with the Big Dogs
This Cat is trying to keep up with the Big Dogs
11-30-2009, 10:58 PM
#76
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Thanks Gizmo for the great plan. My buddy who works at a fab shop just made up 2 stands. One for each of us. He used 3 x 3 tube on the legs instead of the 2 x2. All I have to do is put the padding on the lifting forks. Going to try it out tomorrow!
12-08-2009, 05:22 PM
#77
I made a few outdrive stands and put them on e-bay. These are very heavy duty if you need one they are very high quality. I plan on making a couple design changes that I think everyone would like.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...%3AMESELX%3AIT
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...%3AMESELX%3AIT
Last edited by Steel Outlawed; 12-09-2009 at 06:23 AM.
03-13-2010, 09:04 PM
#78
Here is a picture of the Outdrive Jack. It works great, I used it today to install the drives on the boat. This is the prototype, and I only have one minor thing to change before they are ready to sell. I should have them ready to go next week. These will be $299.99 plus shipping.
08-31-2010, 11:34 PM
#79
Registered
Okay guys, Here are the measurements for my drive stand.
Click on the link to see the picture. I have labeled the pieces A-D.
A = 24"
B = 24"
C = 21"
D = 4 1/4"
A & B are 2"x2" thin wall box tubing.
B should have a straight cut on one end and a slight angle cut on the other. I think that angle is somewhere in the 15-17 degree range. The exact location for the forward legs isn't critical. What I did, was, put the angle ends of the legs out far enough from the center so the far end is just a little wider than the back tube.
C is 1"x1 1/2" rectangle tube, thin wall. two pieces 21" long and one piece 4 1/4" long. Weld the 21" pieces to the short piece. These are the lift arms and are located no less than 19 1/2" from the flor. This measurement is to keep the skeg from hitting the ground when the jack is in it's lowest position.
D needs to be 4 1/4" apart so the drive will fit between.
I used 3" h-d casters. 275lb. capacity each. Put swivel casters on all 4 corners.
I also put cork gasket material on the lift arms to keep from scratching the drive.
The jack is a 3000lb weld on tongue jack (square body). I caught it on sale for about $45.
I hope this helps. I may put a couple together after the new year
Click on the link to see the picture. I have labeled the pieces A-D.
A = 24"
B = 24"
C = 21"
D = 4 1/4"
A & B are 2"x2" thin wall box tubing.
B should have a straight cut on one end and a slight angle cut on the other. I think that angle is somewhere in the 15-17 degree range. The exact location for the forward legs isn't critical. What I did, was, put the angle ends of the legs out far enough from the center so the far end is just a little wider than the back tube.
C is 1"x1 1/2" rectangle tube, thin wall. two pieces 21" long and one piece 4 1/4" long. Weld the 21" pieces to the short piece. These are the lift arms and are located no less than 19 1/2" from the flor. This measurement is to keep the skeg from hitting the ground when the jack is in it's lowest position.
D needs to be 4 1/4" apart so the drive will fit between.
I used 3" h-d casters. 275lb. capacity each. Put swivel casters on all 4 corners.
I also put cork gasket material on the lift arms to keep from scratching the drive.
The jack is a 3000lb weld on tongue jack (square body). I caught it on sale for about $45.
I hope this helps. I may put a couple together after the new year
