engine change
 

i am new hereso I would like to start by saying Hi to every one, I have a Gm 350 that I just bought ran great but the block is cracked so what i want to do is replace it with the crate motor I bought for my truck do I have to change anything besides the carb, distribitor,starter,and altinater can I leave the rest as is , as in the heads manifolds cams and crank


Are if theres somthing you think I should swop out from the other motor let me know thanks

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freeze plugs and head gaskets......... freeze plugs need to be brass and head gaskets need to be stainless

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So The heads and cam thats on engine now are fine right ? great thanks for the help

Re: engine change
 

You mentioned manifolds. Intake manifold can stay but you have to use the marine exhaust manifold.
I would say the cam is a big maybe. Can you post the cam specs? It may be fine, or you may simply not have optimum performance, or it may ingest water into the engine :eek: . That is called reversion.

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Ton of different crate motors available from GM - please tell us which you have.

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Ok this is the info I found not sure if its right so here goes on the crate motor

Casting # 10066036

350 Cubic inches 4.00" Bore, 3.47" stroke
8.0:1 compression ratio.

250 HP @4300 rpm 350 ft. lbs of torque @ 3600 rpm

Engine consists of the following parts:
Block -part # 10066034, casting # 10066036 2 piece rear main seal 4 bolt main

Crankshaft- part # 3932444 Nodular Iron 1985 and older flywheel bolt pattern.

Connecting rods- Part # 10108688 Powdered Metal

Pistons- part#12514101 Cast Aluminum

Oil Pump- part # 12555284 G.M. High Volume Pump

Camshaft- Part#3863151 Hydralic Flat tappet
Intake Lift-.383" Exhaust Lift-.401"
Intake Duration @ .050"- 194° Exhaust Duration @.050"- 202°
Lobe Seperation-112°
This cam Has a mechanical Fuel Pump Lobe. This is a low end Torque oriented camshaft.

Cylinder Heads- part # 14034808 casting #33417369
1.94" Intake valve , 1.50" Exhaust Valve 76cc Combustion Chamber
7 Bolt style Exhaust Flange Standard 85' and prior intake manifold bolt pattern.
Perimeter bolt style Valve Covers. This head is very similar to the old #882 castings from the 1970's

Ok this is what I have found by lookung up the casting #'s if you guys can find any thing let me know

I believe the cam in the old marine motor is like 450-460 where the one in the crate is 383-401 I beleive Ill leave that cam in what do you guys think?

I will how ever be swaping heads from the 1.94" Intake valve , 1.50" Exhaust Valve 76cc Combustion Chamber

to the 14096217 350 87-up 350/285hp crate engine, 64cc, 1.94"/1.5" valves, 72° intake bolt angle again what do you guys think

Pleas I would like all your input

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cam!

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As in leave the Intake Lift-.383" Exhaust Lift-.401" cam thats in the crate motor in there are put the 450-460 cam in

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Where did every one go lol

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There are better cam experts out there. I don't think that cam will hurt anything, it just run as good as it could.Kind of low performance.

Re: engine change
 

Personally, I dont like nor would I ever use a automotive crate motor for a boat.
Ofcourse, that is just my opinion. It can be made to work. The question is how much will you have to change and how much will it cost? How much will you have to change depends on whether you run in salt or fresh water. If salt, as was stated above, you cant use the standard head gaskets or freeze out plugs. While I am not a cam expert, I dont think that cam will work. Assuming you will be using stock Merc manifolds or their equivilent, I would expect to see some degree of reversion with a 112* lobe seperation. While the duration is from from radical, I dont think that stock manifolds can handle it.
If in salt water, you cant use an aluminum intake manifold and expect it to last.
8-1 compression is kind of low, even for a boat. Are you sure about that figure?

Re: engine change
 

Virago,
There seems to be some misinformation regarding the camshaft part # 3863151 and the specs for that cam as listed in the build sheet.

GM # 3863151 is the 327/350HP L-29 cam
Hyd-Flat
306º/306º Rated
284º/284º @ .008"
221º/221º @ .050"
.447"/. 447" Valve
114º LSA

The other possible GM or GM/Crane cams this may be are:

GM # 3896929 327/300HP cam
Hyd-Flat
310º/320º Rated
268º/278º @ .008"
195º/202º @ .050"
.390"/. 410" Valve
112º LSA

GM/Crane 12353914
Hyd-Flat
184º/194º @ .050"
.378"/. 401" Valve

GM/Crane 12353915
Hyd-Flat
194º/204º @ .050"
.401"/. 423" Valve

Because of the wide dimensional variance in these cams it may be wise to have the manufacturer verify the exact part # and dimensions to better determine whether or not this cam is a viable option for your motor.
Bob

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Ok so when chosing a cam what should I be looking for as in lift and lobe seperation

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Just don't let this guy GOODT (Joe Heller) do any work on your boat. he is a dirtbag and still owes me $1,000.00

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The guy is a friggin LOSER. After repeated calls and emails....I fianlly talked to him and he said he would "go to the bank tomorrow". Well, that day came and went a few days ago. Please let anyone you know to avoid this scumbag so they don't have to deal with this crap like I do. It's no surprise to me that I have recieved about 4 emails concerning Joe (GOODT) that he screwed them or someone they know of. I also got about 3 emails from people in his area that said they will avoid him from now on.

Now I have no choice but to start calling ALL the marine shops in his area and let them know what kind of a person/ business person he is. Some people I have already talked to don't want anything to do with him

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Ok so when chosing a cam what should I be looking for as in lift and lobe seperation

Re: engine change
 

Ok you all know the engine I have ( 10066036) It is stock but I want to replace the dished pistons with flat tops so what I was wanting to know is if I put flat top pistons in this engine with the marine 62 cc heads what kind of horse power can I expect

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Any Ideas

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Virago,
No offense, but it sounds like you would be better off just buying a MARINE crate engine. You can keep the other one for your truck. If you look at the links section at the top of the page you will see a section devoted to marine links. inside will be links to all kinds of engine builders links. do some research and you'll find out that it will probably be as much or a little cheaper to buy the whole shootin' match then pieceing one together. You'll get peace of mind also as it will usaully have a warranty and be specific to your setup. Good Luck!
Anthony

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Have a band knew block with nothing to put it in have a brand knew set of flat top pistons with moly rings the onley thing I was asking is any idea what the hp inreace will be with the flat tops over the dome