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Audiofn 12-18-2006 09:40 AM

Huge problem with 5200
 
I got some bad advice a while back about installing my transom asseblies with 5200 :eek: :eek: I sealed up the bolt holes with it on my TRS drives. I did not use any on the gasketsAnyone have any idea what my best course of action is to getting the transom assemblies off? I have a porta power that I figure that I could rig up some how but I am worried that it could damage the transom.

Jon

kaamaman 12-18-2006 10:16 AM

Re: Huge problem with 5200
 
Boatersworld has some anti-bond adhesive de-bonder & remover..stock#376971016 for $9 that works pretty well.
Jim :rolleyes:

rdoactive 12-18-2006 10:40 AM

Re: Huge problem with 5200
 
Yep, adhesive remover will soften it but you still wont be able to pry your transom assembly off without taking gelcoat with it. Use putty knives to work your way around it.
BTW, Merc reccomends only the cork gasket. But on old transoms (TRS) there are usually irregularities, so I use silicon and the cork gasket.

Kidnova 12-18-2006 10:41 AM

Re: Huge problem with 5200
 
I've heard of people using thin wire, like the stuff used to hang pictures on walls. Maybe you could take a 2-3 foot piece of wire and run it between the transom and assembly, back and forth kind of like a sawing motion ?

cougarman 12-18-2006 11:13 AM

Re: Huge problem with 5200
 

Originally Posted by Kidnova
I've heard of people using thin wire, like the stuff used to hang pictures on walls. Maybe you could take a 2-3 foot piece of wire and run it between the transom and assembly, back and forth kind of like a sawing motion ?


Might not work bad, window installers for cars use wire also for removal.

Cougarman

Audiofn 12-18-2006 11:34 AM

Re: Huge problem with 5200
 
There is going to be very little on the outside of the transom. Maybe just a touch near the bolts. What I am worried about is the 5200 going all the way up the bolts....... :eek: I will try the softener but won't that just get the very outside area or does it penetrate? What about heat? I thought that if heat would work that I could make a heat sheild and warm up the bolts.

Jon

Wally 12-18-2006 12:15 PM

Re: Huge problem with 5200
 
Jon, the studs on the assembly's should be bolted/threaded in.......you can try welding a nut on the end of the stud thats sticking into the engine compartment after you have taken the inner plates off then unscrew them and yank them out.....at that point there should be very little holding it onto the transom if the stud areas is the only place you did youse 5200....if not then the piano wire trick shold work for ya....

AIR TIME 12-18-2006 12:36 PM

Re: Huge problem with 5200
 
jon I heard of guys using piano wire to take k planes off that had 5200.

Audiofn 12-18-2006 12:48 PM

Re: Huge problem with 5200
 
Wally good idea. What is the census on how hard those bolts will be to back out? These are 1980's TRS or something like that assemblies. I just do not want the bolts to break off. I guess if they do break off then I could drill them out as long I can get a punch in there? I would however rather not break them off as I want to sell the transom asseblies.

Jon

Audiofn 12-18-2006 12:50 PM

Re: Huge problem with 5200
 

Originally Posted by AIR TIME
jon I heard of guys using piano wire to take k planes off that had 5200.

Hey man how ya been. I have not been on much as I used to be but how did your opertaion go? Hope they got it ok this time!!! I may have a little work for ya some time soon.

Jon

cougarman 12-18-2006 01:16 PM

Re: Huge problem with 5200
 
Jon,

The bolts are the least of your worrys, nothing an impact will not take care of. Not much holding power in bolt holes, the holding power is on your flat surfaces. Kinda like sticking two pieces of glass together with water in between. Just the vacuum alone is incredable let alone adding an adhesive.

I took my monster K-planes off this past fall and used the softener. Trick was getting a putty knife in behind the plates so you could drip the softner in behind them. I did this over the coarse of a week.

10 years ago I took the transome assemblys off a 31' Sonic I had. You may laugh but this worked well. Some body used 5200 on these also and I was told they could not be removed with Squirl snot on there as the industry refers to it as.

Anyways I took 4 X 4's and built a bridge over the Transome assembly. So you have one longer 4 X 4 with a leg on each end forming the shape of a ( U ). Then I ran a chain in through the drive shaft hole and bridged a big plate across the hole with my chain hooked to it.

I had a Handy Man Jack as they are referred to Horizontal on my 4 X 4's and hooked the chain to that. And started to Jack it loose. Handy Man Jack's have a racheting system, so one click at a time I slowly removed them. One click and wait for the suction noise to stop, then go another click.

This took all after noon, only problem I had was my 4 X 4's
base was wobblely, so maybe if you built two bases it would be more stable. Your jack would set on both of them with your chain running between them.

The 4 X 4's are on the outside of the boat against the transom. Hope all this make sense. it work well with no damage to the gel coat.

Key is lots of patients.

Cougarman

Rippem 12-18-2006 01:19 PM

Re: Huge problem with 5200
 
do not bother with the anti-bond, doesn't do a damn thing in my experience.
heat.

Audiofn 12-18-2006 01:57 PM

Re: Huge problem with 5200
 

Originally Posted by cougarman
Jon,

The bolts are the least of your worrys, nothing an impact will not take care of. Not much holding power in bolt holes, the holding power is on your flat surfaces. Kinda like sticking two pieces of glass together with water in between. Just the vacuum alone is incredable let alone adding an adhesive.

I took my monster K-planes off this past fall and used the softener. Trick was getting a putty knife in behind the plates so you could drip the softner in behind them. I did this over the coarse of a week.

10 years ago I took the transome assemblys off a 31' Sonic I had. You may laugh but this worked well. Some body used 5200 on these also and I was told they could not be removed with Squirl snot on there as the industry refers to it as.

Anyways I took 4 X 4's and built a bridge over the Transome assembly. So you have one longer 4 X 4 with a leg on each end forming the shape of a ( U ). Then I ran a chain in through the drive shaft hole and bridged a big plate across the hole with my chain hooked to it.

I had a Handy Man Jack as they are referred to Horizontal on my 4 X 4's and hooked the chain to that. And started to Jack it loose. Handy Man Jack's have a racheting system, so one click at a time I slowly removed them. One click and wait for the suction noise to stop, then go another click.

This took all after noon, only problem I had was my 4 X 4's
base was wobblely, so maybe if you built two bases it would be more stable. Your jack would set on both of them with your chain running between them.

The 4 X 4's are on the outside of the boat against the transom. Hope all this make sense. it work well with no damage to the gel coat.

Key is lots of patients.

Cougarman

Good idea Cougarman. I like the way you think. I will work on some variation of what I think that you did.

Jon

cougarman 12-18-2006 02:25 PM

Re: Huge problem with 5200
 
It worked well, wish I had a picture to show you other than the mental note I shared.

There was no other way , with out destroying something.



Cougarman

BajaRunner 12-18-2006 04:37 PM

Re: Huge problem with 5200
 
use a sawzall :evilb: :evilb:

cougarman 12-18-2006 04:42 PM

Re: Huge problem with 5200
 
1 Attachment(s)
Here's the best I could do on short notice.

Yellow is outside of the boat / Transome.

Orange is your 4X4's, you may have to build supports
running to the ground to keep it all supported.

Blue rod represents your chain running in and through the transome assembly bolted on the inside of the boat.
This way you pull evenly from the center of the assembly.

Your jack will sit against the 4X4's putting the stress evenly on the transome, You may put bigger feet on them if your worried about spreading the load . But this works well with out sweating your arse of and all the cussing. :D :D

Keep the two longer 4x4's as short as you can so the don't bend when you start putting a load on them with the jack.

Cougarman

cougarman 12-19-2006 11:08 AM

Re: Huge problem with 5200
 
Does that help Jon ?


Cougarman

Audiofn 12-19-2006 04:32 PM

Re: Huge problem with 5200
 
Yes it does. That is exactly what I thought that you were saying to do..... Imagine that :evilb: :evilb: :drink: :drink:

Elite Marine 12-19-2006 07:16 PM

Re: Huge problem with 5200
 
Goof off softens 4200 real well, might help on the 5200!!! Whatever you can do to try and break the bond before pulling will hopefully save you a ton in fiberglass and gel reapir!!

Good luck. Take pictures!!

You won't do that again will you? :eek:

cig1988 12-20-2006 04:09 AM

Re: Huge problem with 5200
 
Jon
C-man has the right idea. I went thru this last summer myself. I used a poter-power & applied pressure directly in the middle. Whiles pressuer applied I used a putty knife & worked mint. I bought that 5200 remover from West but automotive laquer thinner worked far better. If you use thinner get them heavy duty gloves. Thinner will soften & a razor blade to remove the heavy stuff. A scotch brite pad w/thinner will clean up the residue.
Stan

Boatfixr 12-20-2006 04:56 AM

Re: Huge problem with 5200
 
http://www.equalizer.com/06/index.html

cougarman 12-20-2006 07:17 AM

Re: Huge problem with 5200
 
LOL, I forgot...........but also found that laquer thinner works well to for all your final clean up.

Scotch brite though?? I'd be worried about dulling the gel coat. I just used lots of elbow grease, and a rag saturated with Laquer thinner and it all came off.

Cougarman

cig1988 12-21-2006 03:51 AM

Re: Huge problem with 5200
 
1 Attachment(s)

Originally Posted by cougarman
LOL, I forgot...........but also found that laquer thinner works well to for all your final clean up.

Scotch brite though?? I'd be worried about dulling the gel coat. I just used lots of elbow grease, and a rag saturated with Laquer thinner and it all came off.

Cougarman

Use the scotch brite only on the surface of the 5200. When I did mine I really didn't care because I painted the transom. The gel coat back there was way too pourous & a biotch to clean.

cig1988 12-21-2006 06:26 AM

Re: Huge problem with 5200
 
Another problem is when you start with the putty knife in the tight area by the k-planes etc. Its a PIA and chances are that the gel coat may be damaged/nicked no matter how carefull you are. Jon, it may be a good opportunity to spray the transom once they are removed.

Rippem 12-21-2006 04:53 PM

Re: Huge problem with 5200
 
heat, heat, heat will make 5200 "gummy" enough to help some with removal and help to seperate it from the gel w/o taking it. Get it just a little hotter at a time as at some point even a heat gun will scorch the gel.

Steve H 12-25-2006 03:49 PM

Re: Huge problem with 5200
 
As been mentioned: HEAT!!!

I have used a propane space heater to heat up the whole area around the transom plat assy. Place it as close as you dare for at least an hour. Then use wdges made of hardwood and slowly and patiently start tapping them in betwwen plate and transom assy. It will take awhile but will defintely work!

Good luck, let us know how you did it

Steve Hixson

Steve Snider 12-25-2006 05:43 PM

Re: Huge problem with 5200
 
5200 holds when you try to pull the bonded part evenly.....the trick is to pry at one side and it will let go.


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