compairing out drives
 

How does a #5 compare to a B-max or Imco extreme.

I've heard good thinks about the Konrad and of course the #6

I just dont know anything about the #5 Parts availablity and strength.

Re: compairing out drives
 

Don't know much about the bravo upgrades of B-max and Imco, but I can tell you from experience on the race course that the #5s can take EXTREME abuse. Albert and I run the Cig HARD with big power and they have held up. It is my understanding that you can still buy a #5 from Mercury, and parts availability are no problem. I just had both drives completely re-built in preparation for the new racing season. No problems getting new parts.

P.S., when are you coming down to ride the Pantera :D

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Thanks for the info. I'm at a cross roads right now. I have my engine torn down and want more pwr. I have a fresh bearings and gears xz. I feel like I should sell the bravo assmy. and sell my engine parts . I would then be able to set up a killer out drive and then throw an engine in it next yr. (2008). A long time to wait :(

Or I could just rebuild what I have, shut my mouth, stop whining, and be happy.

I'm sure the ride with Albert might help me decide :D
in Feb I think(boat show)

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Had #5's on my 04 Nortech, boat has appr. 175 hours. I sold it with 70 hours and never had a problem. Had 750hp per side, I thought they were reliable, but of course the #6 is better and is the crowd pleaser, but at twice the coin, I couldnt see it.

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You know what you should do.

Up to 800HP - 1 Year warranty. No failures to date!!

KONRAD ACE:evilb:

I know a source. . .

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The Konrads are great. We run them on our own boat and have NO problems or failures. The units we havre put on customers boats are holding up the same.

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How much power?

Re: compairing out drives
 

All things being considered you can't go wrong with a #5 or #6. In some cases the #5 is actually faster than the #6.

For me the Konrad would be the second choice.

If price is a problem, sell your XR and get a BMax HT. It's the cheaper route of the three and should cost around $10K minus whatever you sell your XR for.

Just my humble opinion. :)

Re: compairing out drives
 

I have seen several nice used drives I'm concidering. Does the bmax use a bravo gimble housung? What's it rated for?
I thought about selling my mtr after it was redone and my fresh drive assmy and getting a jam up out drive, but Iwould have to save for a year for a monster mtr. I just don't want to miss the boat that long.

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My understanding is a b-max can bolt to a stock bravo gimbal and you have the option of buying a stronger one they can provide.Keep in mind the b-max has a hd upper but only uses stock bravo gears in the lower,Smitty

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I like the idea. What is the hp rating on a #5?
Also is it true that the #4,#5,#6 are considered surface drives?

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I'm not entirely sure what the rating is but I've seen people run 1000 - 1200 hp with them.

#4's are discontinued, the 3,4,5 were a measurement of the depth to the drive, 3 being the deepest and 5 being the highest. Back in the day some of the older triple engine raceboats had a #3 in the center engine and #5's on the outside engines. I think Kid Apache was set up this way???

They are all surface drives, hence the cleaver style surface props. :drink: Another thing I would consider is the cost of props for a #5 vs. a Konrad/BMax, it's a huge difference and they're a lot less available.

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I would say a Konrad would be like a #3 but with a slightly higher horsepower rating. I was told 750 on a #3 to have a reliable package. I'm running 800's with Konrads. No problems to date. Just working on props.

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There is a very nice pair of slightly used Imco 4X4's donw in FL by Larry Goldman. Decent price too.

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I saw those,thanks.
I'm ready for more pics kirk:cool:

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the length of the boat as awell as a weight is very important to your decission. sixes weigh more and affect the c.g more as well. 5's are readily available as mentioned above, and wil as astated survive severe punishment.

b max is not a choice from a strength perspective, being if you dont match their drive with their gimbal, you now created a second week lynk. as is any bravo style/ design drive system ,again no need to elaborate.

Re: compairing out drives
 

Bo do you see the Merc HP [XR] gimble as a week link in a high Horsepower stand point??

The Bmax ,Max, Imco[bravo style] bolt up just like a stock Bravo. I wouldnt think the differant kind[namebrand] of drive wouldnt put more stress on a gimble.

Rob:drink:

Re: compairing out drives
 

a stronger bravo style drive on bravo gimbal or an i.t.s gimbal is not good from a mate standpoint, nor for a person with a heavy throttle hand. especially adding say a b-max. your increasing the load of the mechanical leverage agianst the original design,by increasing the weight of the drive itself. thus increasing the failure rate in critical areas ,like the pivot pins, and the helmut. i have seen this many times , and more so in conjunction with the use of the b-max. all your doing is moving the weak link from one area to another.

as far as the merc gimbal beeing the week link, it would depend on the boat length and weight. again mechaincal levrage comes into play as well as the c.g.

lastly and most importantly when a product is used in a fashion above and beyond its original design failure isnt possible it;s eminant.

although gary and i have routinely pushed his gladiator over the 100 mark with out any failure in the engine, gimbal, or drive, i would say this attests to frquent checks of all moving parts, good design,and proper opperation in that relm.
remember hevy hands yeild heavy hits especially when punching a WET PAPER BAG.

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p.s strip i love the rooster skit l.m.a.o

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The boat in question is a 28 Pantera single engine.
Does anyone think this is to stern heavy with a #6 ? I wouldn't think it would be as bad as twins w/ bravo's on the c.g.
I assume the #5 is a lighter assmy.
I certinly don't want to change the handling too much. I does seem to be balanced very well.

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i have rigged numerous 27 activators with bravo set up's, which is close in comparison to your boat. one in particular was an older 27 straight bottom activator, with a #5 on the transom, and a 900 h.p big block. being there was a tranny( and later a crash box) in this application and the engine had to be slid forward, the weight of the drive and transom assembly did not effect the performance of the boat. as a matter of fact it happened to be one of , if not the best running boats in that size range or slightly larger i have ever run or eun in. absolutely incredible c.g and running balance, not to mention the boat ran 111 mph.
compared to the bravo boat of same brand the investment was well worth it, being it was infact vertually bullet proof.

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I like the quote

Punching a WET PAPER BAG:drink:

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do you know the chic in youravatar,, if so ,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,

well just call me.:D

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Any ball park on the weight dif between the #5 & #6 ?

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No, they put twins in them:rolleyes:

You'll be fine, by the way i think the #5 is rated for 800hp.

Cougarman

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p.s. as for it being a twin boat, those boats probably dont run as well as a single high h.p single in rough water due to all that extra weight in the stern.

and i believe the weight differernce is a bout 75 lbs from 5 to 6. drive and transom assembly. including the steering on the 5.

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Bo, You Da Man! :cool:

I agree with you 100%. In the end consider the pro's and con's for each setup and pick what fits into your budget, there will always be give/take. :drink:

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I also have and HD Gimbal/transom assembly for sale in the swap section if it ever comes back!!

The unit has 65 hours fresh water only.

Kirk

Pictures were posted in the Pantera section. Konrad pictures in a couple weeks I hope. It's in production.

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We put 950 through a #3 in on the boat in the pic under my name. # seasons and we havent had a single problem. The 3a is stronger and better. We have a 2 speed trans which is good for taking the load off during take off and a soft touch limiter which mist help but we give it a hard time and it lives. We will change to a #5 if it breaks. Wouldnt consider any bravo type unit without some big convincing it wouldnt break. Much lighter though and much less HP to turn than a SSM. Jas

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Should the transom of a bravo powered boat be beefed up if switching to 5 or a 6? As you said, just moving the weak link to a new location.

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I have V's with some "net forged gears". They claimed they were stronger than the original? Anyway, 900+ going into them and absolutely no problems or metal in oil after 100+ hours. Any the SSM's allow you to run a substantially larger wheel at of course, a substantially larger price :)

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Does the #5 fith right into the #3 transom?

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i have a pair of bmaxes for 12.000. will take some xrs on trade