connecting rods
 

Hey guys, I'm in the process of trying to get sum engines together for my Fountain.I wanna run good stuff.Do you guys think,I beam rods or H beam rods,The shops around here in maryland say,Eagle rods and cranks are good . They also say Scat rods and cranks are good.One says use I beam rods and others say H beam.Hell one said use GM TRUCK RODS and CRANKS,they'll never break.I wanna be able to run this thing, I realize crower oliver ect ect is Good stuff. I guess they all got me going in different ways. I'm wanting 540" and I am running 8-71 blowers.GIVE ME SUM GUIDENCE PLEASE. I aint rich and don't wanna throw my money away..Sorry i went on . THANKS JOHN

Re: connecting rods
 

Personally,I would not run eagle,scat,elgin,wheeler or any other low buck chinese versions of them because I refuse to knowingly buy chinese crap and the quality is questionable at best. A good medium price alternative to the big buck oliver,crower stuff is the "howards racing cams" (HRC) ultimate duty rods offered by competition products in wisconsin. They run 700-800 $ a set,are made in america,vacuum degassed 4340 steel,magged,xrayed,machined dead on within 1 or 2 ten thousandnths,rated safe to 1000hp. I have ran them in my 540 blower motor at 10 psi of boost at 6000 rpm's with zero issuses,Smitty

Re: connecting rods
 

I agree. I have used those same rods in my own engines as well as quite a few hot street, drag and marine engines. They are excellent quality and no failures or problems to date. Highly recommended.

Re: connecting rods
 

nothing wrong with eagle rods H beam dont forget to run the L19 bolt type I have built many engines for happy custermers with no problems as far as USA made goes do you realy know where they are coming from? cant beat the price good luck with your build

Re: connecting rods
 

Get the best rods you can, cut corners else ware if you must. Almost nothing does more damage than a rod failure. I know from experience, and a ton of wasted money / boating. If you’re going to run 800+HP get the MAX series billet rods. Oliver makes them, and I know Carillo has a similar set, but you must ask. You can find them for around $1200 as set.

Remember to add another zero to that $1200 if one snaps and takes everything out. I remember now.:(

Re: connecting rods
 

How about CARILLO RODS ? I seem to remember from my racing days(many years ago) that these rods were basically unbreakable.

Re: connecting rods
 

one last word on rods and rod failure. 99% of rods that take the big dump are not the problen but the result. hydro lock,DETONATION, almost always the bearing, wrist pin or bushing gives out before the rod snaps, ive seen lots of pro stock, NSACAR and offshore blower motors and I can count on one hand rods that have "just broke" as for cuting any corners on boat motors I go for good machine work first,a tough ass valvetrain and a fuel system that is over kill and that means starting at the pickup in the tank , to the final exit to the engine be it injection or carb. I have seen more rod failuer from what I call " the french fry factor" than any other factor, good old DETONATION it aint your friend! good luck have any questions drop me a reply. I dont think I know it all but Ive seen my share of ****. wolffie

Re: connecting rods
 

Parts are so cheep in America there is no excuse for buying anything but the best. We just spent 3 grand on a crank and 1.5 on rods. You guys dont know how good you have it. If you cant afford a solid 800HP then build a solid 650HP. The last thing you want to do is build 800 twice. By the way. Our engine builder wont have a crank in his shop any less than the best one Eagle make. Thats his starting point. Jas

Re: connecting rods
 

Pro Comp H-beam rods are about $260 a set with ARP2000 cap screws. Eagles are about $360 a set with 8740 fasteners with a $80 upcharge for ARP2000 or L19 cap screws. I bought two sets of the Pro Comp rods from a distributor in St. Louis for $269 a set delivered to my door.
I also bought two Gen V C.A.T. cranks, 4340 forged, 4.250-stroke, internally-balanced. They mike out and index right on the money and have a flawless journal finish. The Gen V cranks are typically more costly due to the difference in rear seal design. These cranks were $420 each, delivered to my door.

Re: connecting rods
 

Crazyhorse,

What is the distributor's name? I would like to purchase the same crank & rods.